no movement wheel bearings ST1100 rear

[DeanR]

I have a spare rear 1100 wheel that I would like to have available to use. Problem is … the bearings don’t budge (rotate), as well as the spacer between them. Everything is in there solidly. The spacer butts right up tight against them so there is no lip on either bearing with which to drive them out. I have some new bearings but don’t have a way to get the ‘frozen’ ones out.

I don’t remember who here that I got the wheel from and know nothing of it’s history. Would the above indicate improper bearing installation? Looks pretty good otherwise.

How to make the wheel useable? Or is it junk and perhaps why it found it’s way here.

 

[ST1100Y]

Would the above indicate improper bearing installation?

Actually yes...
You'll need a cylindrical block (preferable aluminum) and give the inner race of the LHS bearing a significant wack in order to move the RHS bearing outward and free the spacer...
Once this is successful you can pry the spacer aside with your steel-rod (or very large screwdriver, whatever you'll intend to use) to hammer the RHS bearing out by placing prev named tool on the inner race...
Once that's out, recover spacer from wheel and remove the LHS bearing as well...

Clean and lube the bearing seats in the wheel and install new bearings by the LHS (reference) first, don't forget the spacer tube, insert RHS slowly till inner race b a r e l y touches the tube...

 

[Roger]

A 'shield anchor bolt' will do the job.....

 

[Roger]

...And here's a video similar to what I used.......

 

[tonythecarguy]

I have used this type with good success

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B004MAPN42

 

[DeanR]

A 'shield anchor bolt' will do the job.....

Where does one find these Roger? I see an 8 pack on Amazon for 60 bucks. One is enough !

 

[DeanR]

Actually yes...

regarding the improper installation ... meaning they were just driven in too far?
I have no experience with wheel bearings other than sticking my finger in them.

 

[gmtech94]

Home Depot or any builder supply place should have stock of one .

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

hammer the RHS bearing out by placing prev named tool on the inner race...

Minor point, but I’d probably drive out the left side, single row, bearing first; that gives you full access to the double row bearing on the other side which will be hardest to get out. JMHO

The STOC wheel bearing R&R loaner kit has special removers but on frozen bearings I’d expect they’d be damaged so Martin’s old fashioned way would be called for. FWIW

John

 

[SMSW]

The problem with videos like the one posted in #4 above is buying only ONE rawl bolt. There are a number of different types of concrete expansion bolts - most mimic the Hilti variety and these depend upon the user drilling the correct size hole, driving the bolt in, and when it is tightened, the tight fit of the bolt in the hole holds the sleeve while the tapered bolt is withdrawn. This does you absolutely no good at all. The rawl expands as you turn the bolt head pulling a wedge between the two halves of the sleeve, expanding the sleeve against the inside race of the bearing.

If there is a Fastenall shop near you, or a big hardware store, they might sell you one, though these usually are packaged in a box of 25 or 50. You will need to know the ID of the bearing - then buy the closest size to that. A really big hardware store is your best bet.

An alternative is something like this:https://www.harborfreight.com/slide-hammer-and-bearing-puller-set-5-piece-62601.html
You insert the appropriate size, expand it, and use the slide hammer to pull the bearing out. I'd lend you my set, but you are at least 4 hours away....

These are rawl bolts:




@ST1100Y's idea should work too. Once you give the assembly a whack, you will create enough space between the bearing and spacer to get a screw driver into the gap. Then you can drive the bearing out by putting the screw driver against the bearing, whacking it, moving the screw driver, whack it again, etc. I'd squirt my fav penetrating oil on the right side bearing (between the bearing outer race and the wheel) to ease it along. Lacking a block of aluminum, you can use a piece of oak or similar hardwood.

 

[DeanR]

The STOC wheel bearing R&R loaner kit has special removers but on frozen bearings I’d expect they’d be damaged so Martin’s old fashioned way would be called for. FWIW

I was wondering if the kit would be appropriate for this John.

I have used this type with good success

https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Posse-Motorcycle-Separator-Extractor/dp/B004MAPN42

Only need something for a single use Tony. (theoretically)
I'll look for one of those anchor bolt things.

 

[Bush]

Or Dean . . . why not just take the wheel to a dealer and ask them to replace the bearings, which you likely already have on hand? Save you the fuss and palaver of ordering/buying tools you may never need again and the anxiety of getting it done with the new bearings in place - properly, since you have never dealt with them before.

A little money well spent for peace of mind?

 

[DeanR]

why not just take the wheel to a dealer and ask them to replace the bearings

Good possibility.
I tend to first give stuff a shot myself and learn something.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Maybe your local AutoZone has a free loaner bearing remover tool set. The ID of the ST1100 wheel bearings is 20mm.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

The point is to expand the sleeve to tightly grab the race. When you hammer the centre bolt from the other side, this drives the wedge to further expand the sleeve against the bearing ID and grip it even more tightly as it is driven out. This is a longstanding commonly used bearing removal tool in lieu of a proper bearing puller. This method works well most of the time.

These are available individually in many different sizes for only a couple of bucks in any hardware store. Ask for concrete anchors and match the size up.

 

[ST1100Y]

regarding the improper installation ... meaning they were just driven in too far?

Again yes...
Ball bearings are designed for radial loads only, hence don't like axial forces... exactly the condition when driven in too deep, inner race pushed on the spacer, leading to premature failure...

Minor point, but I’d probably drive out the left side, single row, bearing first; that gives you full access to the double row bearing on the other side which will be hardest to get out. JMHO

The manual (14-5) states [remove RHS bearing first] (#12) for a reason... IIRC has the LHS (base) bearing (#14) a deeper ledge protruding inside the hub/wheel which might hinder placing your rod/screwdriver or even get damaged in the process...

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

The manual (14-5) states [remove RHS bearing first] (#12) for a reason... IIRC has the LHS (base) bearing (#14) a deeper ledge protruding inside the hub/wheel which might hinder placing your rod/screwdriver or even get damaged in the process...

Hm… shouldn’t make a difference. In my experience as long as the inner race is exposed the bearing can be driven out after the distance collar is moved aside. A recalcitrant double-row bearing is much harder to remove than the single-row. Removal is one thing, installation another. JMO

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

BTW, once out, here’s a tip in the AOW to make the job easier next time (minor mod of the ID of the distance collar):
Wheel Bearing R&R Tip: Distance Collar Mod ( ST1100 )

Wheel Bearing R&R Tip: Distance Collar Mod ( ST1100 ) *

Wheel Bearing R&R Tip: Distance Collar Mod ( ST1100 ) *

www.st-riders.net

Hm… the URL link shows as “Log in” when this post’s edit is ’saved’, but it’s a public subforum and the link will in fact take you directly to the article/page.
[register/sign-in]

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I can't see it John- asks for log-in.
Not a problem because you have already posted this on this site making it easier for everyone on here to see. Below is the link to your thread about this modification.

Just an FYI in case it was not your intent- I was surprised to see that you posted the below in the ST1300 sub-forum.

Wheel Bearing R&R Tip: Distance Collar Mod

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I can't see it John- asks for log-in.

Mm.. there’s something wrong with ST-O or ST-R because I just used my wife’s iPad (not logged into ST-R) and went right to the page in the public AOW.