no movement wheel bearings ST1100 rear

[John OoSTerhuis]

This may (should) work:
www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=12070.0

 

[ST1100Y]

www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=12070.0

STill reSTricted (members only)...

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

MY APOLOGIES - The Archive(s) Of Wisdom on ST-Riders.net have recently been restricted to ‘members only’ due to “overwhelming numbers of bot attacks/copying…”

Damn… Sorry! [You’ll have to register, but why not if you ride an ST1100 or ST1300?]

[edit: oh yeah… at some point in the far distant paST I muST have logged in to Rider on Sally’s iPad. Arrrgh! ]

John

 

[jfheath]

Point of note - the inner race of the bearings is supposed to be up against the collar. If the bearing isn't driven in so that the inner race touches the distance collar, then when you torque up the axle bolt, it will pull the centre races towards the collar, leaving the outer race behind - putting a side load on the bearings - which reduces their life to less than a tyre change.

And when you come to put new ones back in again, it matters which bearing goes in first. Only the first one is driven to meet the shoulder in the hub.

Here's a link to me knocking out a bearing with the bearing remover tool. The rawl bolt does the same job.
I found that not-so-heavy taps work better at spreading the jaws of the removal tool, and taking the bearing with it. A heavy blow simply knocks the tool out of the bearing.
I made a mental note that if I ever have problems driving out a bearing that seemed to be stuck fast, then the correct sized rawl bolt would be the thing to try next. I've never needed to so far.
A source of heat on the hub may help. Nothing drastic. A microwaved wheat bag for example - please put it in a poly bag first.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Front wheel bearing replacement [VIDEO] | ST1300 Articles | ST-Owners.com

Also - this might be of help for installation
Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fitting Wheel Bearings - What the manuals don't tell. | ST1300 Articles | ST-Owners.com

 

[DeanR]

CBR phone number no longer goes through to them. (800) 769-5388 Charlie Rowlett

(1) CBR bearings still in business? | Vendor Feedback | ST-Owners.com

 

[Mellow]

MY APOLOGIES - The Archive(s) Of Wisdom on ST-Riders.net have recently been restricted to ‘members only’ due to “overwhelming numbers of bot attacks/copying…”

Damn… Sorry! [You’ll have to register, but why not if you ride an ST1100 or ST1300?]

[edit: oh yeah… at some point in the far distant paST I muST have logged in to Rider on Sally’s iPad. Arrrgh! ]

John

Too bad..bots are no big deal, they help with search results and getting people to the site. As for copying, who cares, it's all about distributing information to folks for 2 bikes no longer made or supported by the manufacturer. Freedom of information.

If that is the case, I'll mask-out any site references as I hate member only sites with no public view of useful information.

 

[DeanR]

Tried the slide hammer route from Autozone. No luck. Have yet to find 'shield anchor bolts' anywhere. That frozen in place spacer sleeve is a problem.

 

[DeanR]

Tried the slide hammer route from Autozone. No luck. Have yet to find 'shield anchor bolts' anywhere. That frozen in place spacer sleeve is a problem.

I've learned that a neighbor has a hydraulic press which may or may not be of help.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Have yet to find 'shield anchor bolts' anywhere.

These are available individually in many different sizes for only a couple of bucks in any hardware store. Ask for concrete anchors and match the size up

This side of the pond they are more commonly known as concrete anchors, anchor bolts, or sleeve bolts. They are a very common item and are sold in every single hardware store and reno centre that I have ever been in. I can't see it being any different in your area.

Ask for anchors used to secure items to concrete.
Below is only one axample. There are many different brands.

Red Head 1/2 in. x 3 in. Steel Hex-Nut-Head Sleeve Anchors (25-Pack) 11283 - The Home Depot

Red Head 1/2 in. x 3 in. Steel Hex-Nut-Head Sleeve Anchors (25-Pack) are designed for fastening applications in concrete, hollow or grout-filled block and brick. These contractor grade anchors are ideal

www.homedepot.com

 

[jfheath]

I've learned that a neighbor has a hydraulic press which may or may not be of help.

There is nothing to press on. You need to press on the part of the bearing that is on the inside, and you cannot get at it. There may be a claw tool that would hook under the shell race from the outside and pull it out. You would need to remove the grease seal and maybe destroy the bearing race.

There is a tiny bit of leeway in the way the bearings are fitted. The first bearing to be driven in meets a 'shelf' in the casting. The outer race shell of the bearing sits on it. The second bearing also has a 'shelf', but it never meets up with it. The spacing tube doesn't allow it. If you knock in the second bearing, it will drive out the first. Just a small amount. Maybe a mm - I don't know, but it isn't much. Then knock it the other way. If you apply penetrating fluid around the outside of the bearing, the movement may allow that to get to work.

The problem you will have is knowing which bearing is sitting on the shelf. I can tell you which it should be, but there is no guarantee that the last set were fitted properly.

One technique that I have had success with was with a long screwdriver or a drift to get at the inner race of a bearing from the opposite side. The spacer is a loose fit through the hub. The only thing that keeps it aligned with the bearing is the axle. So you can knock it slightly to one side to expose a small part of the inside of the inner shell. Its not enough to get the entire flat blade of the screwdriver or drift onto the bearing, but it is enough so that you can get an edge onto the inner race.

To knock the spacer over you could try a long bolt, the head of which fits loosely inside the spacer. Have the wheel upright, support the threaded end of the bolt, and tap on the thread close to the bearing. This should tap the spacer over - you need a bolt that has enough room for the head to be removed once the spacer is dislodged.

This will give access to a lip to get a drift onto one side of the inner shell from the opposite side of the hub.

You are aiming for a fraction of a mm of bearing movement. If you keep knocking on the bearing shell from one side, the bearing will get crooked and it will jam up solid. You can tell if you are making progress as the spacer will become slightly easier to move.

So shift the spacer, a couple of knocks on the inner race, shift the spacer to the other side, a couple of knocks. Repeat ad nauseum.

Eventually the spacer will become very loose and it wont need to be knocked over each time.

 

[Al st1100]

a straight punch may not work well. A angle pry bar is what I have used till the spacer loosens up. Might have to sharpen the tip to help. Heating up the hub with a heat gun will help expand the aluminum

 

[DeanR]

The first bearing to be driven in meets a 'shelf' in the casting. The outer race shell of the bearing sits on it. The second bearing also has a 'shelf', but it never meets up with it.

So you are saying that it's not possible to push the bearing from the outside due to the 'shelf' protrusion stopping it?
I've tried to bang the spacer to the side. Got the very slightest bit of bearing edge exposed but not enough to be able to a get a 'solid' hit on it with any tool. A tool will barely catch it and then just slide away when I wack it.
PB Blaster has not helped for the few hits of any consequence.

 

[jfheath]

So you are saying that it's not possible to push the bearing from the outside due to the 'shelf' protrusion stopping it?

That is true - but it wasn't what I was saying. Here's a cross section of the hub - my version of the Honda drawing of an St1300 - but the same principle applies to the 1100.



The left hand side of the picture, the bearing (pink) is driven onto the 'shelf' (what is it's proper name ??) of the alloy hub (green). The blue is the spacer - jammed up tight between the two inner bearing races. The right hand of the picture shows the second bearing that was installed. That one never reaches the shelf, because it meets the distance spacer tube first. That isn't an accident, it is by design. The inner diameter of the spacer is about the same as the inner diameter of the inner race.

The bearings need to be driven out. You cannot get anything on the inside in order to press the bearings out. Generally, they have to be knocked out from the other side. The Honda bearing removal tool is a lump of metal with a deep slot in it.




This is inserted into the bearing to be removed, slot first. A longe drift with a wedged shaped screwdriver type head is inserted into the slot from the other side. As the wedge is tapped into the slot, the sides of the round metal tool expand and grip the sides of the bearing. The continuous knocking drives the bearing out.

The jaws need to spread outwards - so a gentler tap allows this to happen, and takes the bearing with it. Hard hammering simply drives the tool out of the bearing before it has chance to grip.

Here's a video of me doing it many years ago.

The rawl plug / masonary bolt that was described earlier does a similar job - except you get to exhert a bit more pressure on the inner race of the the bearing by tightening the bolt. You have to remember that the bearing is pretty tough steel. It isn't going to give. So any over-tightening is simply going to damage the bolt rather than bite into the bearing shell.

I don't think that tools like the one on the right are any use on the ST1100. They rely on claws being able to hook under the inner race. But they can't - the spacer tube is in the way and if the bearing was installed properly, there is no gap between the tube and the bearing. There is no lip either.

 

[ReSTored]

This is a YT video, shows the loner tools, but process would be essentially the same with a concrete anchor.

 

[DeanR]

Single row bearing is out ! Finally found this .....



.. at Runnings (a favorite store for hardware and other stuff). Was called a 3/4 in. sleeve anchor. Knocked bearing out from the other side rather than being pulled out.
The 2 row bearing on that other side feels fine? so I left it in for now. Not sure if that's a particularly good idea, but it does feel good and smooth.
Now just have to figure out what I want to do with this spare wheel. May need to find a rotor.