NOT the battery....really?

Anna'sDad said:
Here's a condensed schematic of the components involved in the starting circuit for the ST1300.

Perhaps you may find it useful as you chase down your 'won't start' issue.
Click to expand...

THANK YOU ! I didn't know I had so many helpful NJ friends :) I was just in Tinton Falls area over T-giving. I will have to make it a point to look you guys up during my next visit....hopefully on 2 wheels instead of 4 this coming Spring.
 
Anna'sDad said:
Here's a condensed schematic of the components involved in the starting circuit for the ST1300.
Click to expand...

There's more to it than that. A no-start will happen if the crank position sensor or cam pulse generator don't work or any of the injectors have failed, but those problems throw diagnostic codes (check those here). There are a half-dozen or so faults that don't result in a fault code ("no blinks") that are listed in the service manual that should be easy to run down.

--Mark
 
Push start is not going to do you any good.

Change the plugs. They need it anyway. If that don't work then you can go on to more "in depth" stuff.
 
Plugs would be a long shot. It's not likely that all four would go south at the same time.

--Mark
 
4 amps into a 11.2aHr battery is pushing it a little but better than letting it sit dead.
Is that a car charger?

Not surprising the lights are dim after extended cranking and battery need to be recharged.

Push starting isn't likely to do anything different as it sounds like its cranking ok.
Did the clock etc. reset while cranking. That points to a drained or shot battery if you haven't measured the actual voltage at the battery while cranking.


Is it throwing any codes?

The mezzus seem to prefer the injector wires for cleaning their teeth but that should throw a code.
 
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OK what farkles do you have, check fuze, get some star tron fuel stuff, It's something simple those bikes are bullet proof. Always let run longer than 30 seconds it needs to idle down from choke setting. I would let it at least go to 3 bars before shutting off. I always let warm up and maybe rev it up a little and let idle back down before shutting off.
 
I think you need to replace the gasoline in the bike it has probably bad with the ethanol in today's fuel. Start with the simple things before you go and start changing parts.
 
Give me a call and I'll come over and help out when ever you are ready to tackle the beaST. I kind of did the same think and didn't let the bike warm up several years back. I had a hard time getting it started, but once started it was ok. It was like it was flooded.
 
970mike said:
I think you need to replace the gasoline in the bike it has probably bad with the ethanol in today's fuel. Start with the simple things before you go and start changing parts.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the thought.... although the gas is not old, maybe I got some gunk in the line. I'll go that direction next.
 
Does it sound like it's cranking normally or just whirring over like there is no compression? If the latter is the case I'll bet the intake valves are sticking just slightly open not allowing any compression. This happened to me once after sitting a few weeks and it got colder.
 
gsforster said:
Does it sound like it's cranking normally or just whirring over like there is no compression? If the latter is the case I'll bet the intake valves are sticking just slightly open not allowing any compression. This happened to me once after sitting a few weeks and it got colder.
Click to expand...

Not sure if I know the difference between the two. It's cranking over like the normal sound that you get for the 1st 3-4 seconds, but then no "catch" and varoom :) My cycle is garaged and does not sit any longer than the next non Winter road condition day.... THAT is why I'm in the market for heated gloves (lol). THANK YOU and I plan on checking the plugs,fuse and compression as soon as I finish counting to 10 s-l-o-w-l-y.
 
Gilly57 said:
Not sure if I know the difference between the two.
Click to expand...
A crank with no compression will have no "rythym" and be more like just a steady whirr from the starter motor. Just let us know what you find missing ie Spark, Fuel, Compression. That will get us headed in the right direction to find the culprit.
 
gsforster said:
A crank with no compression will have no "rythym" and be more like just a steady whirr from the starter motor. Just let us know what you find missing ie Spark, Fuel, Compression. That will get us headed in the right direction to find the culprit.
Click to expand...

Based on above: crank :) Will check back once I've gotten deeper into the other suggested basic items on Sat. THANK YOU
 
OK...Found out today is family B-day party for almost 16 yr old daughter, SOOoooooo...no messy work is being undertaken, BUT....I do have a couple questions that I can't find answers to in the service manual :

What size socket is needed to get to the spark plug ? ( auto one is way too wide)
Is the fuse on top of the battery something that would stop progress beyond cranking ? if so, how to I disassemple the cover ? I was hoping I'd take it off and turn it over and see the fuse...NOPE. Not unless the entire block is the fuse.

Battery is 12.8....between the 12.4 "bad" and 13.0 "good" range. I'm going with battery not the issue(also, jump starting brings no change).
I do not smell a wiff of gas, so I also am thinking it's not flooded ... along with the "hold throttle open & start" action not solving anything.
Since tank is 1/2 full & garage has been under 32 for 2 weeks... I've been advised to lean towards moisture or crud in filter. StarTron didn't seem to help nor did drinking a cold MillerLite.

Have I said how much I enjoy solving puzzles ? :) THANKS to all.
 
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