PGM-FI UNIT 38770-MCS-L01

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May 15, 2010
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16
Location
Chicago
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ST1300
Beginning with 2007 year the computer part number ends with R12 rather than L01. Anyone know if this new computer will work with an old 2005 ST1300?
I have the dreaded code 25/26 issue and need a new computer. Trying to figure out my options.

Don
 
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flyguy
Joined
May 15, 2010
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Chicago
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ST1300
Thanks for the info :rolleyes: For some reason the R12 is cheaper (on the internet) than the L01.
 

v8-7

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The 08 and newer don't seem to go bad.. I have not seen a failure posted here yet ..Hence, supply and demand..
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
308
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
Bike
2004 ST1300ABS
STOC #
7481
Sorry I only found this now.
I have a 2004 ABS ST1300
I believe my ECU is fried... I need help to find one at a reasonable price
OR....
Could the part with the number that is on the original (38770-MCS-G02), be replaced be a unit ending with L01 ??
 
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aniwack

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I had written a long thread about the ECM and the four different models available but some mod has gone and deleted it.
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
308
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
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2004 ST1300ABS
STOC #
7481
Oh No!
I've got the 8770-MCS-G02 box.
I can get one but there's no keys...?
Can I make it work on my bike?
or rather;
What can I do to make it work on my bike??
Is there a way??
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
308
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
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2004 ST1300ABS
STOC #
7481
Yip and I think i have got my answer... I'm in a load of trouble.
Maybe they can't repair mine and then that's the end of my biking days for the foreseeable future....
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
308
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
Bike
2004 ST1300ABS
STOC #
7481
Well its time for for an update:
I replaced the alternator, which may have been the cause, and the battery, which also may have been the cause..??
I found the correct ECU with HISS Immobiliser and Transponder Key from eBay UK.
There were a few other things in the package deal.
When the missus returned from visiting there, I fitted the HISS component and the ECU and took the transponder out of the key snd swapped it for mine.
So no major work swapping the ignition key unit or the fuel cap (simple enough).
Didn't even use the ABS unit(didn't think I would need it ,but it was part of the package deal)

And then the moment of truth came ... Bike started...eventually.... but the fans were running from the switch on (which is wrong), and the temp gauge showed the bike was overheating...right at the turn of the ignition key..??
Stripped the whole lot down ( air box, throttle bodies etc) to the alternator level again, and found the plastic on the wires of the temp unit were brittle and had bared, and were toughing each other.
Sorted that out.
Re-assembeld and then the bike started first time and everything operated correctly.
HAPPINESSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am back on the bike when I thought it was eventually all over....
As Steve McQueen said at the end of the 1973 movie "Papillon"..."I'm Still Here!!!!"
 

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jfheath

John Heath
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000679
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2570
Well done for getting it sorted !

I hope that you don't mind, but I have a few questions that may help for those of us that have never had to do diagnose this problem or carry out a swap - and you are now the expert in swapping out a HISS ECU !

Since you found bad connectors in the circuit, is there any chance that these were the cause of your problem, and that you didn't need a new ECU ?
After changing the ECU, did your mileage display alter ?
Your photo of the package that you bought seems to show only one chipped key. Once you were able to verify it was working, were you able to reprogram any of your own original keys ?
 
Joined
Mar 16, 2008
Messages
308
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
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2004 ST1300ABS
STOC #
7481
Thank you for the comments and questions:
The bad circuit I mentioned here was actually the second one I found.
The first bad connection (similar with the brittle plastics) was to the alternator...
The alternator's rectifying circuit got damaged, and it may or may not, have killed the battery... voltages shot up to ±20VDC
This bad rectifier in turn allowed the voltages to spike at around 4,000PM and that got to the ECU Unit...
Then the Fuse on the Fuel Pump, ECU and Coils line blew when I was about 5 hrs from home (took me almost 20hrs to get a trailer and tow its home....)
I sorted everything out but the ECU stayed popping the fuse...
So finally I got the replacement and.....No more fuse popping!!

The package shows the key with the transponder in it.
I removed it and put it in my old key...that way I only needed to replace the HISS unit around the ignition setup, and not do a major strip down to replace the locks.

So you do't have to re-program anything... I only use 1off key in any case, as I made up shortened copies for the side boxes and such. They stay in the boxes and look like buttons, and (touch wood) so far no-one has messed with them - not realising they are keys...hehe.
Here's a link to the article on the side boxes knobs:

The tank is easy to replace the cap, but the ignition key set-up is not so much fun.
The HISS section is also held in-place by fancy torque bolts with centre pins in them, so you need a special torque tool to loosen.
And they don't come out all the way, but once loosened, the HISS unit can be easily removed.
I didn't have the special spanner, so I used a small sharp chisel and loosened them, then used it to retighten.

PS: I may just have to buy new keys and have them programmed/ copied off the original....
Probably better than having only one transponder (key)...
OUCH!!!

PSS: My milage is still the same 6,661.... which is 206,661kms
 

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jfheath

John Heath
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2570
Thanks for the additional information - that is very helpful.

Once you have one key working, you can program up to 4 new keys - you can reprogram keys that have already been programmed with the same ECU, but I don't think that you can re-program keys that have previously been registered with a different ECU.

If you are interested, here is how to do it. The procedure is described in the Honda Workshop Manual, so it isn't a trick, or a way to hack into the system. It is fairly straight forward. You just have to be careful of getting the polarity right.


As well as the downloadable pdf in post#1, there are additional comments and contributions that add to the info. Key blanks were about £20 UK - David SIlver has them. I have four that will start the engine. One kept safe at home, the one that I use, one always tucked away in my jacket pocket, and one in my pillion's jacket pocket.
 
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Andrew Shadow

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but I don't think that you can re-program keys that have previously been registered with a different ECU.
Correct.
After a key transponder has been paired to an ECM for the first time, it is married for life to that ECM and can not be paired with any other ECM.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2023
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Brogo NSW
Beginning with 2007 year the computer part number ends with R12 rather than L01. Anyone know if this new computer will work with an old 2005 ST1300?
I have the dreaded code 25/26 issue and need a new computer. Trying to figure out my options.

Don
How did you go with replacing ecu Don, did you also have to get a new key programmed up...Lawrie
 

Igofar

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The 08 and newer don't seem to go bad.. I have not seen a failure posted here yet ..Hence, supply and demand..
I've seen a few 08 and newer ones fail, mostly on police bikes, or bikes with a bunch of electrical stuff added on.
 
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