Possible bearing failure??

[skipcurt]

Can anyone identify the problem from the photos? It's at the front wheel. Just noticed this yesterday before my 47 mile ride home from work. The dirty pic is the clutch side and the clean pic is the brake side.

Skip

 

[v8-7]

indicative of a bad seal, more than a bad bearing.

Has the front wheel been off lately ?

 

[st1300r]

kinda looks like a bearing went south, overheated the grease and slung it out.
anything maybe run down the fork and get slung around?

 

[skipcurt]

Has the front wheel been off lately ?

Haven't been riding all that much with the new crappy job, so no the wheel hasn't been off in over a year.

anything maybe run down the fork and get slung around?

Not sure how to answer that question...nothing that I know of. What could possibly get down it and how?

BTW-the bike only has 36,xxx miles on it.

Skip

 

[v8-7]

I guess you better pull the wheel off and have a look ...

 

[RCS]

Left fork seal may be leaking fork oil on the inside side of bike, dripping down the fork tube and made it's way to the axle. The pattern of that spray is from something less viscous than grease.

 

[skipcurt]

How difficult of a job is it to replace the bearings and/or seal? Never attempted anything like that before. How much might the dealer charge for this fix?

Skip

 

[Dinkie Diesel]

Easy to replace if you have the parts and the tools to remove the wheel. Start by removing the wheel and stick your finger in the axle hole and feel the bearing by turning it with your finger. If it feels smooth just replace the seal. You can pry the seal out with a screwdriver. Carefully and evenly pound in a new seal using something flat like a smooth block of wood. The metal of the seal should be just slightly below flush with the wheel. I think these front seals are a bit different in that that have two sealing surfaces. I usually dab some white lithium grease in the groove between the two seal surfaces and that will sling out over time too and look like what you have in the picture but not as bad.

 

[skipcurt]

Easy to replace if you have the parts and the tools to remove the wheel.

Well, therein lies the problem. Guess I may have to buy or borrow what I'll need. I spoke with H2Orider...aka Kreis, he mentioned he might be able to visit and help. That would be awesome to see him again!

Skip

 

[Dinkie Diesel]

You're in good hands if Kreis is involved!

 

[Coucours Grad]

If you end up hiring it out ask Two Brothers and see if they can work ya in....If not call Lawrenceville Honda.... www.lhyonline.com I'm sure they can fix you right up.

 

[skipcurt]

Anybody know what size hex that is on the left side axle bolt? Is that a special tool needed to remove the bolt or is it just a huge hex key?

Skip

 

[Al Gully]

Anybody know what size hex that is on the left side axle bolt? Is that a special tool needed to remove the bolt or is it just a huge hex key?

Skip

Memory re-calls it was a 17mm hex allen key

 

[Throttlejockey]

Anybody know what size hex that is on the left side axle bolt? Is that a special tool needed to remove the bolt or is it just a huge hex key?

Skip

Just leave the pinch bolts tight and remove the nut. No need to hold it.

 

[Mark]

It is a 17mm and you can get a socket mounted set from HarborFreight. I bought it (the 17mm Allen) from ACE and it cost an arm and a leg.

But you really don't have to have it unless you're going *strictly by the book*... you have to have the socket for the other side though so that you can torque it.

 

[Throttlejockey]

It is a 17mm and you can get a socket mounted set from HarborFreight. I bought it (the 17mm Allen) from ACE and it cost an arm and a leg.

But you really don't have to have it unless you're going *strictly by the book*... you have to have the socket for the other side though so that you can torque it.

Actually, you don't. Snug the pinch bolts up just enough to hold it. After I torque it I release them again and check the torque.

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

to have the socket for the other side though so that you can torque it.

never have, as stated the pinch bolts are enough.... Besides, you have to follow pinch bolt/axle routine to make sure the forks align properly ( no pulling to right )... so your going to tighten the pinch bolts and loosen them anyway...re below

(Note: Axle pinch bolts are finger loose at this point)

1. Tighten the left axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)
Note: Indication of “Left” is if you were sitting on bike
2. Tighten Axle Bolt to 79 N-m (8.1 kgf-m, 58 lbf-ft)
3. Tighten the right axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)
4. Now loosen the left axle pinch bolts
5. Note: During the assembly process, this is where you would be installing the brake calipers.
6. Set the bike down where the bike's weight is on the wheels. Lock the front brake and push the suspension up and down several times.
7. Tighten the left axle pinch bolts to 22 N-m (2.2 kgf-m, 16 lbf-ft)

 

[Mark]

Tom,

You are completely correct...
I figured if he was talking about an allen he's thinking about the rear tire...

 

[Tom Mac 04a]

if he was talking about an allen he's thinking about the rear tire

... thought the rear axle was rounded, Only Hex on front axle??

 

[Throttlejockey]

... thought the rear axle was rounded, Only Hex on front axle??

Must be a special ST....