Article [11] ST1100 - Fuel Pump Replacement

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I would have thought, with the tabs all folded up, the guts of the motor should slide out'a the canister without slicing. Wonder if all the crud has it "glued" in there?

So, how long have ya run the repaired pump?

Great pics, BTW. I'll do the same to lipSTick's OEM pump soon. More pics to come.

I expect my OEM pump is similar, bike having sat for nearly 5 years before I got it. She hasn't set long since, but...

Oh, did I mention? When I took the pump out of STanley (91, all stock), the 1/2" hose is a pliable as you would expect. Here's a pic, tho, of the original hose off lipSTick, which I replace in Santa Fe last Thursday. In addition to the end having split when we reinstalled it at Mt. Calm, TX, it was so brittle it split into three pieces when I removed it in the motel.
IMG_6485 (1200x900).jpg
 
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Talked to Kreis (h2orider) a while ago. He suggests the diff in price between the NEW Hi-Flow pump and the Rock Auto pump may be because the cheap one is a rebuild. Given the pics above of a home-done rebuild, I don't think that would bother me.

I'll "destroy" lipSTick's OEM motor this afternoon and post pics of what I find.
 
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Talked to Kreis (h2orider) a while ago. He suggests the diff in price between the NEW Hi-Flow pump and the Rock Auto pump may be because the cheap one is a rebuild. Given the pics above of a home-done rebuild, I don't think that would bother me.

I'll "destroy" lipSTick's OEM motor this afternoon and post pics of what I find.
George - it is possible that the "guts" of the pump may slide out - but due to the wiring, I think it is going to have to all slide out in one direction. I really didn't expect to get the pump working again and the easiest way to take it apart was to cut it open. Actually, I don't think the cut really effects very much - the case may be just a hair bigger now but is contained by the housing. The armature rides in the synthetic end caps so it shouldn't be effected. I put a couple of thousand miles on it and ended up selling the bike.

The pump from Rock Auto comes with a 12 month warranty at it says the reason why it is so cheap is due to "factory direct" pricing. I don't think it is rebuilt - here is a direct link to the Performance Electric website

http://www.electricfuelpumps.com/index.html
 
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The HiFlow site sez "New in the original package" and they claim low price due to direct factory stuff too. Doesn't explain the 2.5X price tho.

STanley's pump is now in lipSTick. Didn't do any more "flow" tests. :22yikes:

Working on my Audiovox now, it quit on me somewhere west of Albuquerque last Friday. :(
 
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I filled my tank today with the Airtex installed - nowhere to hook that vent hose to it so it is in a box in my garage with the OEM pump. Everything ran fine on a short errand run...longer ride planned for tomorrow.
 
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This is the link to the ebay pump that George mentioned. The description calls it "Honda ST1100 Motorcycle Intank Replacement Fuel Pump E8371 NEW OEM" (note the "E8371" which is actually the part number for the airtex pump

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-ST1100-Motorcycle-Intank-Replacement-Fuel-Pump-E8371-NEW-OEM-/160665773988?hash=item25686d27a4&item=160665773988&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

Several days ago I sent them a question asking them if it was the Performance Electric P06K that sells for around $30. Today I received a response

"[FONT=&quot]No it is an HFP-360"[/FONT]

Here is the link to the High Flow Performance web site
http://www.highflowfuel.com/search.html?q=HFP-360&go=Search
 
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Several days ago I sent them a question asking them if it was the Performance Electric P06K that sells for around $30. Today I received a response

"No it is an HFP-360"
Here are both pumps side-by-side, the Hi-Flow is slightly longer and weighs twice as much, so not nearly the same. Note, tho, the one from Rock Auto has nuts on the terminal lugs, the Hi-Flow does not. Hmmmmm...

Anyhoo, if the Rock Auto works okay (it'll go in someday), it would be my choice as it probably flows LESS (good in our case at the lower fuel pressure required than a typical car) AND it costs 1/2 as much. That being said, tho, the Hi-Flow is obviously a more quality part, so...

IMG_6534 (1200x900).jpg IMG_6535 (900x1200).jpg IMG_6536 (1200x900).jpg IMG_6537 (1200x900).jpg IMG_6538 (1200x900).jpg IMG_6534 - Copy (1002x549).jpg

Now, to yesterday's failure:
1. Bike ran really fine all the way to Peoria, AZ on Thursady. Everything operating. Remember specifically gas gauge still showed 1/2+ at 180 (my mid-tank estimate of "running right" on lipSTick.)
2. 7:30AM Friday, left DaveyB's house for the State Capitol. Notice the gas gauge reading E. Wazzup'wi'dat?
3. About 3 miles in, ran out'a gas. Huh! Just over 180 miles on the tank, showed 1/2 full when I arrived on Thursday, now empty and out'a gas. No Way!
4. David towed me to the nearest gas. Filled up, took only 4+ gallons, about right. So, not out'a gas, just out'a FLOW!
5. Stripped the bike and looking for obvious problems. Voltages at the pump connection look right but no go on either OEM or Aux pumps. Gotta be something in a ground to have taken out the gas gauge too.
6. With a full tank, gravity has refilled the bowls. Decide to head back to David's.
7. 2 miles later, stuttering and bumping again, pull into a Circle K. System not keeping up under gravity.
8. Took my length of siphon hose and a plastic bag, stuck the hose in the filler hole, wrapped the plastic around to get some seal, and BLOW into the tank. Got enuff pressure to get'er running roughly and back to David's.
9. More trouble shooting and perusing Jhn Oo's color wiring diagrams on-line (thanks, John.) The diagrams show the gas gauge and pump circuits are completely separate. Hmmmm. Also, no blown fuses.
10. Pull the OEM pump, test shows it's running but almost no flow at all. Aux pump now running, also shows reduced flow tho.
11. Disassemble the pump. Stock pump appears to be running slow. The anti-siphon valve (inside the large black fitting terminal opposite end of the motor) seems to function but large flow restriction. Dirty?

Here's a couple more pics:
IMG_6539 (900x1200).jpg IMG_6541 (1200x900).jpg

The pump assembly opposite the motor is where the hoses connect. The large 90 is where the "fuel input hose" attaches, the smaller is where the output hose connects. Looking down into the area where the motor goes, the black hole is where the opposite end of the output fitting, it has what I assume is an anti-siphon valve. This pic is of the original pump assembly and there is almost no restricition to air (my bad breath :D) in either direction. The same check on STanley's pump is high restriction in BOTH directions, and you can hear a restrictor move as air is pushed/pulled thru it. Which is correct? Guess I'll have to pull STick's pump and test it. :(

12. Back to David's. The small hose on the pump assembly looked bad so replaced it with 5/16 fuel line from Pep Boys. No apparent leaks tho. Broke the end off the large hose but still long enuff to fit, so no problem there.

13. Found nearly zero flow thru the stock pump motor, tho it was running. Restrictor valve problem? Don't know yet.

14. Low but adequate flow thru the aux. pump. It draws thru that same restriciton, so... ?

15. Shorted across the leads for the gas gauge and it immediately jumped to full, so no problem with the gauge. Hooked the float bail and pulled up, again the gauge read full, so problem with the circuit in the tank. Either the bail is bent (unlikely as it returned to function for about 40 miles when I filled up yesterday evening in Wickenburg) or the variable rheostat in the tank is intermittent. Broken wire? Maybe.

16. On the ride home yesterday, I turned OFF the aux. pump as we pulled into Wickenburg. Figured, with the aux. ON, she runs ruff at low speed. If the floats are full, she should run on "reserve" for a couple miles without it. Stopped on the north side of town and refilled, left the aux pump OFF for the next 40 miles and she ran fine.

17. Once into some stiff hills, at 75 MPH, the stock pump couldn't keep up on the uphills. Flipped the aux. to ON, and she picked right up. Tells me the stock pump was trying but not passing enuff gas for the job. Aux made the diff to get me home.

There, we're up to date. Next job is to open up one of the "bad" pump motors and get a close look at the guts.

Open question: Is that an anti-siphon valve, or a restrictor, on the pump end of the small 90? fitting. And, how should it react to suck 'n blow?

More to come this afternoon.

OH, one more thing: on the fitting inside the tank at the pump opening: I stuck a hose on there and blew into it. No bubbles, just air coming out the other end, where ever that may be. So, at least on lipSTick's tank, that internal tube does NOT draw gas. I'll get a real pic later when I pull that tank and remove the gas gauge sender unit.
 

Uncle Phil

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George - Interesting notes on both of my fuel pump failures - the cruise control start surging as the first symptom. I thought I had something wrong with the MCCruises on my bikes until the same symptom showed up on the second bike and the fuel pump died later on. As the pump gets progressively worse, the fuel flow gets weaker and weaker until it can't keep up and you 'run out of gas'. I think as the fuel level drops, it also heats up the pump which makes it fail sooner. I'm wondering if you disconnected the electrics to the stock pump, if the aux pump would have pulled enough fuel to keep you cooking under all conditions.
 

John OoSTerhuis

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The fuel filler cap has built-in valves to vent both ways, pressure and vacuum. I can hunt up the schematic if anyone's interested.
 
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Update:

It's in and works fine, but I haven't tested it in the real world, just the garage. Anyhow..here are some pics that show how my instal varied from others.

First, someone farkled two vent hoses into the tank. Venting appears to be a non-issue on this bike. You can see them inside the tank and the hoses vent between the tank and rear fender under the seat. Interesting. If anyone knows about this farkle or has input/background, I'd like to know more about it. I'm leaving it for now.

Next..I cut a small chunk out of the band that comes with the Airtex pump to make it a little less snug inside the Honda clamp so as not to fight with the small screw.

Finally, in the finished pic you can kind of see that I added two washers between the contact points of the Honda clamp to help make up the gap and prevent over-tightening it. Still, a very easy install and could be done in a parking lot if you had to in case you're thinking of buying one for a travel kit. Nothing to it.

If I have issues with it, I'll post. Otherwise I need to go ride.

Thanks all.
Larry, has anyone suggested those extra hoses may have been connection point for an auxiliary fuel tank? Just a thought.
 
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The fuel pump and gas gauge are totally separate issues, found a broken wire (just worn thru) on the variable resistance on the sender unit. As the float moves, a finger passes over the windings of the resistor, presenting a variable resistance to the gauge.

I'm gonna resolder the wire, and have already bent the traveling finger to contact at a different point on the winding.

Cut open lipSTicks original motor, found it a little dirty but no crud like the one pictured here by GitSUM:


The split ring pickup for the armature on my motor is pretty worn from the brushing passing over it but otherwise it all looks good. Put it back together with a hose clamp and it runs fine. Haven't checked the flow rate yet.

Gonna do the same to STanley's pump soons I'm done here. Best guess, both motors can be made functional again.

In the meantime, I have three new motors in-the-box awaiting their chance to take over. :D

IF I get one of the OEM pumps up 'n working consistently, I'm gonna stay with it. I'll carry the replacement pumps with just in case of another failure. As the other guys have said, the replacement is a simple parking lot fix should it be needed. Just stay away from open flames and SPARKS. :22yikes:

More pictures and details soon.
 
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LipSTick is all back together with STick's gas tank/pump/fuel level sender. Here are some more pics of the effort.
IMG_6534 - Copy (1002x549).jpg IMG_6538 (1600x1200).jpg IMG_6537 (1600x1200).jpg IMG_6536 (1600x1200).jpg IMG_6535 (1200x1600).jpg IMG_6534 (1200x1600).jpg

Packaging with part number, impeller end side-by-side, pump units side-by-side, and complete package side-by-side. Rock Auto Performance on the left and HighFlow on the right.

They are not the same unit, the Hi-Flo weighs about twice the Performance and is a little longer. The threaded terminals on the Performance includes nuts, the Hi-Flo does not and I haven't found anything to fit it (yet. Off to True Value soon's I send this.)

Performance unit was ~$34 delivered by UPS Priority from Rock Auto. Hi-Flo was ~$80, delivered by UPS Priority from High Flow. Google either shop. High Flow is available thru E-Bay but they'll take direct orders too.
 
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Here's the "guts" of lipSTick's original pump and fuel level sensor:
IMG_6539 (1600x1200).jpg IMG_6541 (1600x1200).jpg

End of OEM pump assembly opposite the motor. The large fitting connects the large hose from the fitting just inside/right of the pump hole in the gas tank. The other end of that internal tube is connected to the top of the tank just right of the gas cap. Looks to me it does nothing but provide an internal passage for air inside the tank. Still don't know why. Small fitting is the output from the pump assembly to the external filter/carbs.

Second pic is looking down into the assembly where the motor goes. The white circle is the "other end" of the large 90? fitting. The black circle on the right is the other end of the output fitting. There is what I think is a one-way anti-siphon valve in there. On lipSTick's original assembly, it has almost zero restriction in either direction. On STanley's assembly, it has a lot of restriction in both directions. I think both should be restricted toward the pump, no restriction out'a the pump. Anyone know better?

IMG_6542 (1600x1200).jpg IMG_6543 (1600x1200).jpg
The motor with outside case cut off, and the disassembled motor. Note the wear on the commutator (where the brushes rub.) [-]The smaller diameter could be a large part of the problem because the motor will spin slower and thus provide less output pressure. [/-] WRONG!! Bad thinking on my part. As long as the brushes have good contact, the wear on the commutator makes no diff in the motor operation. The torque and RPM are a function of the windings to magnet
electrical motor function, nothing to do with the brushes. All else being equal, this motor should run at spec.

IMG_6544 (1600x1200).jpg

This is the disassembled float/fuel level sender. You can see the (shiny) wear pattern. from the ground-side finger rubbing for 140,000 miles (divided by ~250 = 560-or-so tanks of gas, so lots of rubbing. OTOH, STick's has 200,000 miles and still works. Did I just jinx myself? :D The break is near the narrow end, 4 windings up. It wouldn't take solder, and fiddling with it resulted in 3 more broken windings. Fragile.

So, a lot of effort and money to basically replace a bad pump. Would'a ticked me off to have either of these problems surface on Wednesday as I roll my SS1K from Santa Rosa, NM to Casey, IL.
 
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Aaaaarrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhh!! The threaded posts on the High Flow pump need a 6-40 nut. Only things I can find in Kingman are 4-40s or 6-32. I'll come across a Fasten-All along the way to Casey.

I'm gonna call High Flow in the morning and complain. The 30 dollar unit from Rock Auto came with nuts (metric 4-.7)
 
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I'm having a hard time finding nuts that'll fit the highflow pump as well.
Woonjas, I finally go mine direct from High Flow, Chris said they have a box of 100 just for those pumps and also for another which needs only one. He sent me 4 in a USPS Express envelope...

Last word I have, they are M3.5 x .75 thread pitch. I never found any in stock but a couple places said they could get'em. 'Spect you would have an easier time on yur side of the pond...

My next bet was to stop at a Hobby supply store, some of the 'lectrical components for small electric motors apparently use this size as well...

O, BTW, I edited my post in #74 above, my error on the commutator wear comment
 
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Thnx George.
I'll have a go at local hobby stores, I already tried the local hardwarestores.

update:
Just received a reply from High Flow on my enquiry on their website, they're sending me the missing nuts.
:)
 
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Phil, I'd do just as I did and fix the stock pump. I now have three after market pumps 'n don't need any of'em.

After close inspection and some fiddling, turns out the problem with pump from ReSTored was a cracked hose so the fuel was just dumping back into the tank. Bought a 1 foot section of submersible hose at NAPA, $22.

Woonjas, good news on the nuts for ya... I told the guy at High Flow he should stick some nuts in each pump box while it was still fresh in his mind. :D
 
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Larry, has anyone suggested those extra hoses may have been connection point for an auxiliary fuel tank? Just a thought.
Good point. I really think this bike had one at some point. All I know is I'm glad to have paid for the Honda OEM after missing out on a season of miles dinking around with pumps last summer. I still have a facet wired in and the plumbing ready if I need to do a roadside switch. It's hot summer time now and time for pumps to fail so we'll see how I do. I just got home from the Boise-St. Louis turn around trouble-free. Next? Miles. Let me, all of us know, how your pump works. I'd love to find out there's a cheap fix out there. In hindsight, the price the of the oem would've been worth it for me at least just to get the miles last summer that I'm getting now. I like to wrench and farkle, but I like to see family and friends even more at the end of a ride.
 
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