ST1300 Oil Viscosity and brands recommended

bigbikerrick said:
I have indeed read that diesel oils do have additives specifically to neutralize acids formed as combustion by products, inherent to diesel fuels and their sulfur content. I read that a while back,on the BITOG (Bob is the oil guy), website.
Rick.
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Diesel fuel has undergone three regulations (at least) on limiting sulphur. So what level was Bob referring to?
 
Kevcules said:
Yes, In my opinion changing your oil at 5K is a bit overkill. You can easily go 8-10K with synthetic oil. But since an oil change isn't very expensive, some change it early.
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5K change intervals isn't much different than the 3K and a filter every other change maintenance that Dad grew up with - given Honda's recommendation of 8K for dino oil. I know someone who still does that and another guy who does 2K. A waste of time and money but it's 'cheap insurance'. Then at least change the filter every other change. I'd bet full synthetic can easily go >10K. But 10K is an easy number to remember. And it's cheap insurance.

I've got my ring magnet - ready for installation. If cutters weren't so pricey I'd get one and monitor my filters out of base curiosity.
 
etalors said:
You could have said "maybe". :) Can you expand on your precise answer.
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You asked 2 questions,,, they were answered in the order of which they were asked...
#1 "Would Shell Rotella T6 Full Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil SAE 15W-40, work in a st 1300".
#2 Would there be any starting issues, due to oil thickness.
Definitive answers yes and no
 
OkieRider said:
It's the 21st century and we still have motorcycle oil threads?
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Well, it's important to cover all aspects of oil, like brands, viscosity, diesel, blended, friction, color, additives, where to buy, change intervals, shelf life, just to name a few.

Come on over ... we've got three large couches, beer, and fresh popcorn, drizzled with butter.

I suggest we hang out and watch the oil threads on the big screen TV while talking about the different characteristics of butter, such as brands, viscosity, blended, color, additives, where to buy, shelf life, fridge vs room temp ...

:bigpop:
 
My oil change routine is pretty simple. Since I only put 2-3K miles per year on it now, I change it every spring before my group ride and I'm good until next spring.

Yes, Rotella synthetic. Yes I know it's overkill. No I don't care. :biggrin:
 
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Just so I don't feel left out. I just changed the oil in my 2003 ST1300 (the fast grey one) after a 2000 km journey in 5 days at 34 degrees C (93 F) every day. I doubt it really needed it, but I feel better for it. The shifting was a little notchy when it was super hot (or I thought it was).

I did use T6 for several years with no issue. I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, European Car formula, as it has no resource conserving rating on it and seems to work as well in the bike as the T6 and costs less when bought on sale $32 CDN. I believe the oil ratings I saw on another page (Bob the Oil Guy?) had a better rating for the Mobil 1 product over T6 for some of the contents (zinc etc).


For your consumption.
 
Mikedo said:
T6 and costs less when bought on sale $32 CDN
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So 32 CDN is 23.50 USD ...

I can buy T6 for less than 20 USD every day, and when on sale, for less.
*** EDIT: and when i check the price for the M1, it's almost $10 USD more than T6.

Sure you want to run "0"? (yea, I was joking around in above post)
 
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caldercay said:
Well, it's important to cover all aspects of oil, like brands, viscosity, diesel, blended, friction, color, additives, where to buy, change intervals, shelf life, just to name a few.

Come on over ... we've got three large couches, beer, and fresh popcorn, drizzled with butter.

I suggest we hang out and watch the oil threads on the big screen TV while talking about the different characteristics of butter, such as brands, viscosity, blended, color, additives, where to buy, shelf life, fridge vs room temp ...

:bigpop:
Click to expand...
not enough time today... by the way, whats the best air to put in my tires? :rofl1:
 
Mikedo said:
Just so I don't feel left out. I just changed the oil in my 2003 ST1300 (the fast grey one) after a 2000 km journey in 5 days at 34 degrees C (93 F) every day. I doubt it really needed it, but I feel better for it. The shifting was a little notchy when it was super hot (or I thought it was).

I did use T6 for several years with no issue. I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, European Car formula, as it has no resource conserving rating on it and seems to work as well in the bike as the T6 and costs less when bought on sale $32 CDN. I believe the oil ratings I saw on another page (Bob the Oil Guy?) had a better rating for the Mobil 1 product over T6 for some of the contents (zinc etc).


For your consumption.
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PASSENGER CAR MOTOR OIL | The Petroleum Quality Institute of America

Passenger car motor oil is the lifeblood of your engine. In addition to lubricating moving parts to help reduce wear and tear and the buildup of heat in your engine, motor oils contain performance additives that help to reduce oxidation, neutralize acids, prevent rust, corrosion, and foam...
pqia.org pqia.org
Mikedo said:
Just so I don't feel left out. I just changed the oil in my 2003 ST1300 (the fast grey one) after a 2000 km journey in 5 days at 34 degrees C (93 F) every day. I doubt it really needed it, but I feel better for it. The shifting was a little notchy when it was super hot (or I thought it was).

I did use T6 for several years with no issue. I switched to Mobil 1 0w40, European Car formula, as it has no resource conserving rating on it and seems to work as well in the bike as the T6 and costs less when bought on sale $32 CDN. I believe the oil ratings I saw on another page (Bob the Oil Guy?) had a better rating for the Mobil 1 product over T6 for some of the contents (zinc etc).


For your consumption.
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I''m not comfortable using "0" weight oils on flat tappet engines. In all the newer car engines the clearances are a lot tighter and most if not all have roller rockers and that is why they went to a 0/20, 5/20 and so on. I don,t have any absolute truths about the oil just my opinion. good oil info http://www.pqiamerica.com/June 2014/mobil1530a.htm
 
There are a lot of different opinions on what oil, what filter and how many miles to change it. What I don't see discussions over engine failures caused by wrong oil or any engine failures at all due to "lack of lubrication". So the most expensive oils work just as good as an inexpensive oil as long as you change it once in a while. * oils certified by st owners only *
 
OkieRider said:
It's the 21st century and we still have motorcycle oil threads?
Click to expand...
caldercay said:
Well, it's important to cover all aspects of oil, like brands, viscosity, diesel, blended, friction, color, additives, where to buy, change intervals, shelf life, just to name a few.

Come on over ... we've got three large couches, beer, and fresh popcorn, drizzled with butter.

I suggest we hang out and watch the oil threads on the big screen TV while talking about the different characteristics of butter, such as brands, viscosity, blended, color, additives, where to buy, shelf life, fridge vs room temp ...

:bigpop:
Click to expand...

And...... this is why I went radio silent for 20 years... :p

Anyone up for an argument, uh, I mean discussion, about the 1100's steering head shake?

The collection of hard drives holding such threads on Steiner's old site could've been used to moor a cruise ship.
 
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