ST1300 trip odometer and clock issue

[Josh_ST]

I have read on some of the forum posts that the factory wiring colors appear to be somewhat a "suggestion" in places, so I'd triple check them before proceeding with any wire loom surgery.

Josh

 

[Smoother]

I have read on some of the forum posts that the factory wiring colors appear to be somewhat a "suggestion" in places, so I'd triple check them before proceeding with any wire loom surgery.

Josh

I’ll take that into account. Thanks

 

[dduelin]

I’ll take that into account. Thanks

Maybe with aftermarket equipped police equipment but not with the factory supplied loom. Honda to a fault has tight QC and there is no variation.

 

[Josh_ST]

My apologies! I was personally battling the knock sensor FI codes, and those posts made the wiring colors seem to be a bit amiss, and might not match all the way through. Ultimately, as most report, a new ECU was the ultimate, and EXPEN$$$IVE, fix.

Josh

 

[Joe_1300]

Any update on this matter as my 2002 just developed the same fault - the battery is fairly new, 6 months, starter spins lovely without any issues and all fuses on the lhs of the bike are all good. Any help would be appreciated!!

 

[Igofar]

Not sure what you are asking an update on?
This thread has discussed several things.
If you are having issues with the clock re-setting itself (post 1) then your issue would more than likely be battery related.
How do you know your battery is good? Just because its fairly new?
You could have a bad cell in the battery, and a tender is not charging it completely.
These bikes take a lot of cranking power etc.
I'd start with checking/testing the battery first.

 

[Smoother]

Well I don’t know what issue he is referring to, but he did say

starter spins lovely without any issues

So I guess it’s not the battery

 

[Igofar]

Yes, he said it spins lovely, but does that mean enough?
He needs to check the battery with a volt meter when he attempts to start it and see how much it drops.

 

[Joe_1300]

Yes, he said it spins lovely, but does that mean enough?
He needs to check the battery with a volt meter when he attempts to start it and see how much it drops.

Igofar the battery is fine; my issue is the clock re-setting itself - I don't even need to start the bike, if I turn the key on and then off, that's sufficient for it to reset.

 

[Igofar]

Which is what happens when your battery is dying, and it does not have enough juice to run a system check, thus re-setting the clock to 1:00a.m.
You really need to check the battery with a volt meter to see how much it drops with just turning the key on, then again, when hitting the starter button.
Are you using a stock OEM battery (Yuasa) or a smaller aftermarket battery?
If your using a smaller, non-OEM battery, it may not have enough juice to do what the bike needs to do.
If its not the battery (which I doubt) then you could have a short in your wiring somewhere etc.
Start with testing the battery.

 

[Sadlsor]

That's three battery verification suggestions s from Larry in this thread.
I'm not nearly as knowledgeable, wise, or experienced in troubleshooting these bikes as are others around here, but this much I DO know:

Testing battery voltage with a meter does NOT assure us of a healthy battery.
It really needs to be load-tested, at least.

 

[Igofar]

That's three battery verification suggestions s from Larry in this thread.
I'm not nearly as knowledgeable, wise, or experienced in troubleshooting these bikes as are others around here, but this much I DO know:

Testing battery voltage with a meter does NOT assure us of a healthy battery.
It really needs to be load-tested, at least.

Which is why I suggested that he checked the readings of just the battery, then with the key on, then what happens when he turns the key on.
This should be enough to indicate if the battery is up to par or not.

 

[marlonsaint]

Any update on this matter as my 2002 just developed the same fault - the battery is fairly new, 6 months, starter spins lovely without any issues and all fuses on the lhs of the bike are all good. Any help would be appreciated!!

My issue with clock & trip meter resetting ended up being the 12 V keep-alive not making it to the instrument cluster. Without the keep-alive 12V the clock & trip meter lose their memory when you turn off the key. Message me if you need the particulars.

 

[Igofar]

Is it possible to post the particulars here? as I'm sure other folks with the same issue would be interested.

 

[marlonsaint]

I just looked up some details. If you know how to wrangle wiring, wiring diagrams wire colors and multimeters, I think I can lead you toward the solution. The overview, or, theory of operation is: the Dash Clock and the Trip Meter have a 12V line that comes from the ignition key; 12V is present according to the position of the key. There is another 12V line that comes from Fuse H which has the 12 V always present, regardless of key position. The line from Fuse H is responsible for the clock remembering what time it is, what the trip meter has logged, the next time you turn on the key. So, to go directly to the troubleshooting:
Step #1 - Unplug the rubber boot from behind the instrument cluster. There will be 2 plugs plugged into the rear of the instrument cluster, unplug both.
Step #2 - Go to the larger of the 2 plugs, and in one corner you will see two red wires with green stripes. One wire is the 12V from keyswitch, the other is 12V from fuse H.
Step #3 - Connect black lead of multimeter, (set to volt meter/DC/ 20V range) to negative terminal of battery, and red lead into socket of 1st red/green wire. Multimeter should indicate 12 volts. If not turn key on. If not try 2nd red/green wire.
Note: both red/green wires should have 12 volts present - one all the time, the other on and off with ignition key. The red/green wire that has 12 volts always present is the" keep-alive."
If you can't see any 12 vols on either wire, then - put multimeter on battery; indication will be 12.3 to 13.2 volts-ish. If under 12.0, battery needs charging, (or possibly replacement.)
If battery checks out then check fuses E & H
The problem I found with mine, 2007, was that due to a break in the wire, the keep-alive 12 volts only made it to the back of the instrument cluster and not to the connector pin.
I couldn't figure out how to repair without damaging it, so I went to junk-yard and got the wiring sub-harness and replaced my original.....Success!!!

 

[Igofar]

Thanks……
So not to confuse folks with “a stay alive” that many who’ve never worked on cars would understand, you simply found a broken wire

 

[marlonsaint]

Yeah, it was aimed at folks that have a background that would allow them to "dive right in." I figured my audience is: 1, Motorcyclists, and 2, ST owners, who either have the background, or have the $$. And yes, I found a broken wire; emphasis on "found," as opposed to "broken wire."
I sincerely hope it helps someone; This forum definitely helped me to find this problem.

 

[Igofar]

Yeah, it was aimed at folks that have a background that would allow them to "dive right in." I figured my audience is: 1, Motorcyclists, and 2, ST owners, who either have the background, or have the $$. And yes, I found a broken wire; emphasis on "found," as opposed to "broken wire."
I sincerely hope it helps someone; This forum definitely helped me to find this problem.

Good find! Glad you got it sorted out.
While we have several VERY knowledgeable members, I still get responses from folks like...(me) "do you have your own tools?" (them) "yes, I have a circle wrench"..."you know the one that has a donut on one end, and a birds beak on the other"
Bless their little heart, I still have to help them.

 

[Sadlsor]

Wondering whether I have a wrench like that.
Do i need to get one?

 

[Obo]

@Sadlsor you need these at least items.



That and a Phillips or Pozi (JIS clone) screwdriver.



And a claw hammer and a long bit of pipe to use to tighten nuts instead of a torque wrench.

I might have missed some stuff.