Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube with Moly-Graphite for greasing splines on rear wheel

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Can I use Sta-Lube Engine Assembly Lube to grease the splines on the rear hub and rear wheel? Do I really need to use a dedicated molybdenum disulphide grease? I'm asking because I already have this huge $15 tube I used ONCE to grease the cams after a shim check and adjustment.

Thanks in advance.

-Charles
 

Igofar

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Most Assembly Lube(s) are grease(s) that are intended to wash out once assembled. This would not be good for your bikes splines.
The application for the drive splines do not call for Molybdenum disulphide grease, but rather Moly Paste.
Honda Moly 60 or Loctite LB8012 are good choices for this application.
I would avoid the Honda M77 Grease, as there have been several reports of spline damage found where this has been used.
 
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SirSquid1300
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Most Assembly Lube(s) are grease(s) that are intended to wash out once assembled. This would not be good for your bikes splines.
The application for the drive splines do not call for Molybdenum disulphide grease, but rather Moly Paste.
Honda Moly 60 or Loctite LB8012 are good choices for this application.
I would avoid the Honda M77 Grease, as there have been several reports of spline damage found where this has been used.
Thanks for the feedback. What about synthetic greases like Green Grease (https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/green-grease/green-grease-14-ounce-waterproof-synthetic-polymer-waterproof-grease/grg0/101/v/a/109935/motorcycle-scooter-street-bike-2006-honda-st1300-abs?q=grease&pos=11)? I happen to have 14oz of that stuff too.
 
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Igofar

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Do NOT use Grease (any kind) on your splines, or you'll be risking damage to your drive shaft assembly.
Get a service manual if you don't already have one, and follow the suggested recommendations on what to use, and where to use it. Your bike will thank you for it.
20180502_085504.jpg20180502_085543.jpg20180502_091338_1526924168964_001.jpg20180508_183704_1525832410849_001.jpg
 
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Molybdenum is actually the lubricant. The grease used is just a carrier that makes it stick in place. If you use grease without sufficient molybdenum or equivalent metallic lubricant (if there is one) then you can expect a bad result. Just pinch it off and pay for the loctite.
 
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Search for ts60sg made in Texas I believe. Talked to them on the phone. It was developed by them and Ted porter for splines on motorcycles. Clutch splines on older beemers needed to be lubed or would wear out the transmission shaft. It is stickier than the loctite stuff. I've had troubles with it balling up and falling off . Next tire change I will try it.
 
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Thanks for the feedback. What about synthetic greases like Green Grease
I confess to not understanding why we all (I'm including myself here) think we can do better than what the manufacturer has recommended regarding oils, greases and other more or less commodity type components*. You can use anything on those splines, but we have hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles with splines on hundreds of ST's over a number of years using the original Honda moly paste. When Honda changed the formulation, reports of wear started cropping up. We do have some guys here who have used nothing but high pressure grease on their splines, but I suspect their lack of trouble is due more to regular maintenance/lubing than the specific grease they use (however, using a generic chassis grease in this application is asking for trouble). That said, a few anecdotal reports of using a non standard lubricant does not mean that is safe for all of us.

I would be willing to bet that Honda examined all of the forces acting on the splines, calculated contact and moving pressures, and then surveyed available lubricants to determine what would give long term life to the splines. In the end they 'rolled their own' and had someone mix the stuff up for them to market as Honda Moly Paste. Note that they recommend moly grease for the drive shaft splines and moly paste for the wheel splines. To me this says there are different forces and motions acting here that demand different lubricants.

*In recent years I've given up trying to reinvent the wheel (or oil) and simply follow the mfr's instructions.
 

Igofar

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Search for ts60sg made in Texas I believe. Talked to them on the phone. It was developed by them and Ted porter for splines on motorcycles. Clutch splines on older beemers needed to be lubed or would wear out the transmission shaft. It is stickier than the loctite stuff. I've had troubles with it balling up and falling off . Next tire change I will try it.
Which product are you having problems with it balling up and falling off?
Are you stirring it up completely before you apply it? Or are you just using the brush and what's on it?
The grease will separate, and it needs to be stirred to keep from falling off.
 

dduelin

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I confess to not understanding why we all (I'm including myself here) think we can do better than what the manufacturer has recommended regarding oils, greases and other more or less commodity type components*. You can use anything on those splines, but we have hundreds of thousands of trouble free miles with splines on hundreds of ST's over a number of years using the original Honda moly paste. When Honda changed the formulation, reports of wear started cropping up…..
Yes, who knows best and who has the most skin in the game? Honda superseded Moly60 with M-77 years ago. Honda says use M-77 in this application. There’s been a few undocumented reports of spline wear but the ST1300’s robust record of drive train reliability and long service life with M-77 or Loctite remains as strong as ever. There’s a lot of thought put into the manufacturer’s recommended lubricants for good reason.
 

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If you scroll back up a few posts to the pictures I've attached, you'll find one of the "undocumented reports of spline wear using Honda's M-77", as well as some more pictures of what it looks like after it dries up, balls up, and leaves the splines.
And lastly, since Honda knows best, I believe this came straight from the horses mouth....
The service manual recommends the correct Paste for splines, however, even though they are using the words paste, if you read the fine print, you'll see they recommend the M77 to be used WHENEVER THE SERVICE MANUAL RECOMMENDS APPLYING MOLYBDENUM DISULFIDE GREASE.
Such as the back of brake pads on your wife's CRV etc.
The loctite seems to be holding up the best so far.
If you ask BMW or Honda mechanics what they use on their personal bikes, they don't/won't use the M77 on their personal bikes.20180501_165803.jpg20180501_170011_1526924174073_001.jpg20180528_072659.jpg
 

dduelin

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Documented entails more than a few pictures. It means knowing when and how it was applied and the service history.
 

Igofar

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The spline plate in the picture was a brand new part, installed by a certified Honda dealership, Honda M77 Grease was applied at said dealership, who installed the part, assembled the bike, sold the bike to the owner, who rode it only a few hundred miles, then brought it to me.
So I guess I do know when it was applied, who applied it, the history of the part installed, and observed the damage upon disassembly.
Feel free to take another jab at me, since that's all you seem to be doing lately.
:nanana1:
 
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Which product are you having problems with it balling up and falling off?
Are you stirring it up completely before you apply it? Or are you just using the brush and what's on it?
The grease will separate, and it needs to be stirred to keep from falling off.
I'm currently using the Loctite lube. I do stir it up before I apply it. The last time I really stirred it up extra. I clean the old stuff out of the splines and apply the new lube with a tooth brush. I will be replacing the rear tire shortly and I'll report back.
 

Igofar

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When you stir it up, are you using the brush? I sometimes find the brush will not dig deep enough, to mix everything, so I use a small screwdriver to mix it, for me, this seems to work really well.
You may want to try using a small acid brush instead of a tooth brush. This makes it a little easier to paint the paste on the splines, without having it all over the place.
You only want to paint the surface, not fill the splines up. If you put too much on, it will just force it out of the splines and pack it up against the inner dust seal, and throw it around the black ring on the inside of the pumpkin making a mess.
Thanks for replying, let us know what you find when you report back.
Ride safe.
:WCP1:
 

dduelin

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The spline plate in the picture was a brand new part, installed by a certified Honda dealership, Honda M77 Grease was applied at said dealership, who installed the part, assembled the bike, sold the bike to the owner, who rode it only a few hundred miles, then brought it to me.
So I guess I do know when it was applied, who applied it, the history of the part installed, and observed the damage upon disassembly.
Feel free to take another jab at me, since that's all you seem to be doing lately.
:nanana1:
Even if the claim is true a sample of 1 with no test methodology does not constitute documentation. I’m not trained in test methods and barely passed Statistics 101 but I know Honda did not supersede M60 without careful test methods. There are thousands of Honda shaft drive bikes from 600 to 1800 ccs out there using M-77 without history of premature spline wear or failure.
 
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When you stir it up, are you using the brush? I sometimes find the brush will not dig deep enough, to mix everything, so I use a small screwdriver to mix it, for me, this seems to work really well.
You may want to try using a small acid brush instead of a tooth brush. This makes it a little easier to paint the paste on the splines, without having it all over the place.
You only want to paint the surface, not fill the splines up. If you put too much on, it will just force it out of the splines and pack it up against the inner dust seal, and throw it around the black ring on the inside of the pumpkin making a mess.
Thanks for replying, let us know what you find when you report back.
Ride safe.
:WCP1:
I'm sure I put too much on. I tend to do that. I'll try the acid brush next time. Thanks
 
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