Symtec/Heat-troller Question...

[STingray]

In case anyone needs it, here's the wiring diagram for Symtec heaters and a Heat Troller:

http://www.warmnsafe.com/motorcycle_handgrips.php

HTH!

 

[Shuey]

Well, this is an older thread, but . . . like ChipSTer I'm in the middle of the same install and stuck on the wiring. Directions don't match what I have in hand and I'm still waiting for a return call from Warm-n-Safe from whom I bought the Heat-Troller.

Here's what I've got:
Symtec Heated Grips: Red, White, Blue wire from each grip pad.
Heat-Troller (HT): Red and Black (2 wires) with bare ends; blue and white (2 wires) with bare ends and a sheathed cable going to the switch & LED.

Written Directions with Heat-Troller:
- Twist Symtec white wires together and connect with HT white wire. (no pblm)
- Symtec Blue wires are not used and not connected to each other, tape off. (no problem)
- Twist Symtec red wires together and connect with HT PURPLE wire. WHAT PURPLE WIRE?
- Diagram shows HT Black wire goes to ground from "Power In" port on HT box. Actual box wires from "Power In" is the sheathed cable to the switch. ?
- Diagram shows HT Red Wire from HT goes to #87 on Relay then to Fuse then to positive. I'm wiring to a Centec fuse panel, so will wire HT Red direct to positive. Right?
- Note: HT "Power Out" location has NO wires coming out of it and no way to put one in as it's a sealed unit.

So, is there a problem with HT Red direct to positive? HT Black to Centec ground?
Where do the Symtec Red wires go? Not Purple! The only unused HT wire is the blue one.

Shuey

 

[st1300r]

Here's what I've got:
Symtec Heated Grips: Red, White, Blue wire from each grip pad.
Heat-Troller (HT): Red and Black (2 wires) with bare ends; blue and white (2 wires) with bare ends and a sheathed cable going to the switch & LED.
Shuey

I'd wait for a return call from warm and safe but I'd bet :capwin:
Red to postive power. (switched power from your acc fuse block or thru a relay if you don't have a fuse block)
Black to bike ground.

Blue is the + supply to the grip elements
White the ground return for the grip elements.

So;


Both elements red to the blue HT
Both elements white to the white HT.
Both elements blue wires unconnected.

iirc a 5amp fuse is more than enough for the HT while running the grips.

 

[George]

Anyone recall the RC Car motor controller that was posted here some time ago? It appears to be about the same guts as the HeaTroller for considerably less money. I need one for the heated grips on lipSTick.

 

[Shuey]

Got a late night email response from Mike Coan at Warm-n-Safe with a follow-up call this morning to be sure all was clear. It was. Good support, much appreciated.

st1300r, you got it exactly right. Thanks for the response. I am wiring to a fuse block and although the wiring solution seemed obvious, even before I posted, it's not my area of expertise and I have a project history of fixing one thing, getting it wrong, and creating more problems along the way.

Shuey

I'd wait for a return call from warm and safe but I'd bet :capwin:
Red to postive power. (switched power from your acc fuse block or thru a relay if you don't have a fuse block)
Black to bike ground.

Blue is the + supply to the grip elements
White the ground return for the grip elements.

So;


Both elements red to the blue HT
Both elements white to the white HT.
Both elements blue wires unconnected.

iirc a 5amp fuse is more than enough for the HT while running the grips.

 

[st1300r]

Not ringing a bell George maybe somthing like this LINK could be adapted.

I'd guess an RC controller would be looking for a pulse input to controll the output. 1ms pulse off 1.5ms half power 2ms pulse full out put the way a servo gets its control.

 

[George]

Woo Hoo.... Stopped by the local mom&pop auto parts just down the street... guess what... they have the SAE connector... And cheaper than on-line... I bought all they had!!!! Back to work!!!

Chip, I get'em at my local ACE hardware in their little RV department.

 

[vink]

Hey all
I have a 95 ST 1100 and I am considering the heat troller and the symantec grip heaters. Are there any issues with the smaller alternator ST's and this setup?
Vinnie

 

[George]

Not ringing a bell George maybe somthing like this LINK could be adapted.

I'd guess an RC controller would be looking for a pulse input to controll the output. 1ms pulse off 1.5ms half power 2ms pulse full out put the way a servo gets its control.

The directions for the controller say perfect for DC motor control OR 12V light dimmer. Static test with 12V and ground to input, only meter at output, it shows, at full out, battery voltage. Turn it down a little and it goes to 11.7 V. Turn it down more and it drops to mv. Wonder if it needs load to make the IGFET work correctly?

Not gonna happen this weekend. I'll STick with the two level resistor and...

GO RIDE!!!!​

Probably won't need'em heated grips anyway as I'm gonna see temps in the 70s.

 

[DAS]

Vink

power use on your ST1100 should be as follows:

10 amps = two 60/55 watt headlights on high beam (assuming you've upgraded to std. 60/55 watt H4s)
4 amps = two 1157 tail lights, two front 1157 turn signals, and about six 194 dash lamps
assume about 5 amps for the ignition system but this is a wild guess
the symtec grip heaters draw 2.4 amps on high

that's a total of about 22 amps so you're ok but if you ride with a pair of 55 watt driving lights (another 9 amps) or an electric jacket (7 or 8 amps) you better upgrade to the 40 amp alternator or cheaper than that get HID head lights.