Too late for these splines? Or run em'?

[rwthomas1]

Are these harder than oem, Or still pretty flexible?

They are quite a bit harder. The stock o-rings I removed didn't look bad at all, but I tried the polyurethane, just because. I don't think it really matters unless you in an extremely dusty or wet environment? Just change them at every tire change, clean our the old paste, apply some new, etc. No need to overthink it.

 

[Beeflips]

My buddy said he had to pry the dampers out, so I'm curious if they had been swapped without cleaning up the mess? the mysteries of buying an auction bike and now knowing history, or anything about that model of bike.

 

[STFlips]

Well I had to pry (fairly easily) my dampers out but had to use a soft hammer to get the new ones in. They were waay tighter.

 

[rwthomas1]

Well I had to pry (fairly easily) my dampers out but had to use a soft hammer to get the new ones in. They were waay tighter.

Same here. Old dampers fell out. Had to lubricate the new ones with water and knock them in with a dead blow and a bit of wood. Quite tight.

 

[Beeflips]

Well, I bought new dampers and bushings anyways, so it will all be new in there. Just waiting on delivery.

 

[Beeflips]

Finally got around to cleaning up the female splines. @John OoSTerhuis
What's the opinion? Personally I think they look pretty good.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Very minor “shelving”, matching the driven flange. Looks OK. Moly paste, dampers and inserts, (and possibly a final drive alignment/retorque) and you’re good to go.

Regards, John

 

[Uncle Phil]

See post #13 ...

 

[Beeflips]

Sooooo, when I was cleaning and lubing up the splines and putting things back together, I was checking my service manual and noticed that my buddy took the nuts off of these posts on the drive flange. The manual says (without explanation) caution: do not remove the posts or the nuts on this flange. Or something to that effect.
After inspection I could not see that any of the posts had moved, I could see that the nuts had red loctite on them, so I put the nuts back on with loctite and torqued them to 25 in lbs, does ANYBODY have the specs for this part so I can check it? Or even know what the torque value should be?
I have a way at work to center this up off the I.D. and check the post ends as I rotate it. Any thoughts?
@Uncle Phil , @John OoSTerhuis @Igofar Or anybody with experience in this matter?

Thanks, Greg