Wax assembly

After you adjusted your idle (with a JIS driver) did you remember to pull the black knob back outward to lock it in place?
I did not know that but in the ownersmanual page 100 idle speed they do not write that to pull the black knob back.
 
All it does is take the bind off the cable/spring at the end of it and keep it from wandering around.
The knob is simply to identify the adjuster, use a JIS screwdriver, because if you try and turn the know, you can twist it off and break the end off the cable.
 
All it does is take the bind off the cable/spring at the end of it and keep it from wandering around.
The knob is simply to identify the adjuster, use a JIS screwdriver, because if you try and turn the know, you can twist it off and break the end off the cable.
I think my wax sensor is dead because when i start cold the engine iddle goes to low and the engine shut off.
Afther ride a few miles it iddle normal 1100 rpm.Do i have to take off the left and right colour panels to take the airfilter off complete to reach the wax sensor?or is it posssible when only lift tank and deeper than?
 
Thanks for all the replies guys, had idling issues for a long time which improved a bit after I replaced the throttle body assembly with a used item. Better, but still not right. As the issue is with the speed of idling after starting (hot or cold), I'm guessing the used wax assembly might have seen better days.
I am also trying to troubleshot some issues when starting my ST.
Before replacing the wax assembly, did you notice a difference depending of the outside temp when starting the bike?
That's what is happening in my case, choke works always fine in cold weather but not when the outside temp is up to 65F.
I also sometimes get the Fi light coming in and disappearing when re-starting the bike with a warm engine.
 
I think it was my first response on this site from Larry describing how this component might have something to do with my [almost initial] posted problem and warranted further investigation or consideration, whatever it was.
At the time I honestly thought he was trying to make a fool of me... [Why does that always happen, and more importantly... by now, why do I still let it bother me... hmmm...] Knowing myself to be the sort that talks when he ought to listen, I thought hey, why don't I indulge him further.
Well, to say the least smart move, I deferred my reaction and went on to spend the following [approaching] three years reading almost everything he and a not so few other guys have contributed to this site. Sometimes you can blink and miss everything.
 
I often find its not the idle wax valve itself that fails, but the little threaded rod that goes through the small black plastic barrel gets fouled.
Do NOT try to adjust the nut (per service manual) although some folks will jump in and say they have done it, most of them find out later they just caused other issues in different areas.
Anyway, what I've been finding is the threads catch on the sharp edge of the hole on this piece, and sometimes it sticks, sometimes it raises the RPM up and runs away, other times it may prevent the bikes choke to work, so the bike stalls and dies.
The fix is really simple, clean all the crap off the barrel, and make sure everything is moving smoothly, and not covered with crap, as most of them are.
 
I often find its not the idle wax valve itself that fails, but the little threaded rod that goes through the small black plastic barrel gets fouled.
Do NOT try to adjust the nut (per service manual) although some folks will jump in and say they have done it, most of them find out later they just caused other issues in different areas.
Anyway, what I've been finding is the threads catch on the sharp edge of the hole on this piece, and sometimes it sticks, sometimes it raises the RPM up and runs away, other times it may prevent the bikes choke to work, so the bike stalls and dies.
The fix is really simple, clean all the crap off the barrel, and make sure everything is moving smoothly, and not covered with crap, as most of them are.
Thank you, it makes sense and it is exactly the explanation I was looking for.
I guess its means removing the throttle assembly to get access to it. Trying to spray WD40 through the hole will probably not work considering that the junk is behind the rubber cap or even damage the wax inside?
 
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Thank you, it makes sense and is exactly the explanation I was looking for.
I guess its means removing the throttle assembly to get access to it. Trying to spray WD40 through the hole will probably not work considering that the junk is behind the rubber cap or even damage the wax inside?
Nope, just remove the air box assembly and your looking straight at it….sort of.
 

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So it really does use ...WAX?
That sounds crazy to me! All the high-tech (for its day) braking and stuff - and the throttle operates based on melting wax?
That is simply hysterical.
And I'm laughing.
And I'm not telling any of my riding buddies.
You should definatly tell them
Could be a conversation starter
 
So it really does use ...WAX?
That sounds crazy to me! All the high-tech (for its day) braking and stuff - and the throttle operates based on melting wax?
That is simply hysterical.
And I'm laughing.
And I'm not telling any of my riding buddies.
My Honda lawnmower has one.
 
So it really does use ...WAX?
That sounds crazy to me! All the high-tech (for its day) braking and stuff - and the throttle operates based on melting wax?
That is simply hysterical.
And I'm laughing.
And I'm not telling any of my riding buddies.



High-Tech wax!

Not just Honda.

Application field:
Building / industrial services, underfloor heating, faucets, air conditioning devices, radiator thermostats, solar systems, industrial water mixers, hot water boilers.



However...better follow the shop manual recommendation on page 5-77:

"Use caution in proximity of beehives".
 
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