Uncle Phil
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Pictures? Did you do this on the bell crank/pulley on the carbs? Just curious how that works.
which cruise control?
- Thread starter Gofstrtad
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larryg
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++1 on Uncle Phil's posts above.......
I had the Rostra on for two years :
Yes, it worked, but never was right. OK on level ground, or uphill, but surged everytime it engaged, going down hills, and was just generally unusable.
After wasting $$ and a LOTS of time (plastic on/off, on/off, etc. to try different settings) with my Rostra, I bought the MCCruise.
My advice - spend the money. As Phil said, everything's included, you don't have to hack your wiring, and most importantly you don't have to jury-rig your throttles.
The more I thought about that arm down there, under the airbox, the more I worried that one day it might snag and jam up.
The MCCruise guys have put an incredible lot of work into making this specific to the ST. That's why it ain't cheap.
Very detailed instructions, wires cut and connectorized to fit and just drop in - the install goes very smoothly.
And, as has been said, they are right there for you if you run into a snag.
This makes the (approx) $800 I spent on this very well worth it IMHO.
Don't forget, your time is worth something also.
I had the Rostra on for two years :
Yes, it worked, but never was right. OK on level ground, or uphill, but surged everytime it engaged, going down hills, and was just generally unusable.
After wasting $$ and a LOTS of time (plastic on/off, on/off, etc. to try different settings) with my Rostra, I bought the MCCruise.
My advice - spend the money. As Phil said, everything's included, you don't have to hack your wiring, and most importantly you don't have to jury-rig your throttles.
The more I thought about that arm down there, under the airbox, the more I worried that one day it might snag and jam up.
The MCCruise guys have put an incredible lot of work into making this specific to the ST. That's why it ain't cheap.
Very detailed instructions, wires cut and connectorized to fit and just drop in - the install goes very smoothly.
And, as has been said, they are right there for you if you run into a snag.
This makes the (approx) $800 I spent on this very well worth it IMHO.
Don't forget, your time is worth something also.
kiltman
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- 2002,ST1100ABS
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- 8826
It's hard to get a picture of it, I just took this one and the throttle is in the full open position. There's a bead holder clamp with an eyelet. I had the bell crank drilled and tapped to accept a 6mm shoulder bolt. The servo cable attaches to the bead chain. It seems to work for me. I have a bracket on the air cleaner housing so that the pull is parallel to the throttle cables.
Uncle Phil
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Robert - Thanks, I see what was done. Did he pull the carbs to do it or use a right angle drill? Just curious.
kiltman
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- 2002,ST1100ABS
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I had this done to both bikes I owned (1990 and the 97). They just popped the carbs off slightly and drilled and tapped in situ. I think when I had it done on the 1990 the gas tank was removed for easier access.
I was wrong about the bolt size, it's a 4mm x .7 pitch it has to be located in the right position so that you get a good pull. I used the instructions that Bill Boyd Summit MS #2542 wrote up.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
I thought they had to do something with the carbs because when I looked at it originally before I got the MCCruise there just was not enough room to get a drill bit in there as they sat.
kiltman
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- 8826
I've had some email exchanges with MC Cruise. Tony was extremely helpful. Larryg sums up the pluses from what I can see of the MC cruise. The simple yet ingenious solution to dealing with the throttle connection is top notch.
I've got some thinking to do.
I've got some thinking to do.
I want to do the same thing. That is, replace the Audiovox with a Rostra in my '97 ST1100. My audiovox does not hold speed at more than 60. I have a custom made dual pulley system that allows the throttle cable to go slack when the cruise engages and I really like the feel of that and the dual pulley drives the stock bell arm crank on the carbs so I'm pretty sure the linkage is not the problem. The Audiovox controller is in the upper right cowl in font of the right pocket and is driven by the coil (tach) signal. I have extra LED brake lights in the tail light so I have a relay to shut off the cruise. Maybe I should try a magnet on a wheel but I suspect the problem is the vacuum is a little too low at higher speeds. I remember SupraSabre telling that someone he knew had a cruise control that got a triple digit performance ticket in Nevada and I was left thinking I'd really like mine to hold that kind of speed. Anyway MY QUESTIONS IS - WILL THE ROSTA TAKE A THE SIGNAL FROM THE TACH. HAS ANYONE TRIED THE ROSTA 250-4153 OR 250-4160 SPEED GENERATOR ON THE ST-1100 SPEED-O CABLE? If not I guess the magnet is a possible backup plan.
kiltman
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- 8826
With my Audiovox I tapped into three carburetors to get more vacuum, I also had a canister that helped me with maintaining higher speeds.
You can get a signal from the coil apparently. Murphs kits sells an adapter for that purpose but unfortunately the cable doesn’t interface with the coils. I’m just wrapping up my install of the Rostra on my 97ABS. I’m using a magnet sensor left over from my Audiovox kit. It’s not that difficult to do.
I do remember someone trying to use a speed sensor on the speedo cable, but I think there wasn’t enough room to put the interface.
OP
OP
Mophead
Site Supporter
Just installed the McCruise on my 05 and it worked right out of the box. The provided wiring harness is worth the price to me. Truly plug and play. Do the diagnostics and its ready to go. No dip switches to fool with.
I'm not a fan of hacking up the stock wiring harness so it was a no brainer for me. Yes they are more expensive but the quality and support from them is top notch.
I'm not a fan of hacking up the stock wiring harness so it was a no brainer for me. Yes they are more expensive but the quality and support from them is top notch.
After my 2nd Audiovox CCS-100 died, I did something I should've done 11 years ago ... ordered a McCruise. Ordered it back in January and it arrived soon after. Finally had a few free days to strip the bike down, remove all the Audiovox hardware and connections, and then install the McCruise. When I say "strip the bike down," the only tupperware I did not remove was the front fender, and the fore & aft cowls (had to pull the dashboard in order to remove the CCS-100 & vacuum canister). The McCruise instructions were top notch, and having the electronic copy made viewing images much better versus the B&W paper copy. Put the bike "together enough" today (I had the fuel tank off, too) to start the engine, then followed the initial diagnostics and cable adjustment instructions, then reinstalled all the tupperware. Went for a test ride and it worked flawlessly.
Uncle Phil
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I will in a few weeks as soon as I get it ordered (other stuff to do first on the new ST1100). I'll let you know how it sorts out.