2012 V-Strom 650 Test Ride

On the vstrom there are marks on the rear part of the swingarm you match up on both side to make sure the axle is as even as possible so maybe this is for bikes that don't have those type of marks? I've only changed tires on a couple chain bikes and those guys didn't seem to worry about it much but they could have adjusted them once they got home. I wasn't planning on doing anything other than making sure the slack was within specs and then the marks on the swingarm sides all match up.
 
You can use the Eyeball 1.0 method by thumbing the chain guard to the side and eyeballing the chain run from the rear. It's pretty easy to sight along the links and see any curve or angle from straight.
 
Joe, most chain drive bikes have the marks on the side of the swingarm at/near the axle, but I've found them to be too crude to be useful. What has always worked for me is to get ~5' behind the bike and to look at the alignment of the chain (between the front sprokect and rear) in relation to the chain as it wraps over the top rear sprocket... it is surprising how small of a misalignment one can see by naked eye.
 
BakerBoy said:
Joe, most chain drive bikes have the marks on the side of the swingarm at/near the axle, but I've found them to be too crude to be useful. What has always worked for me is to get ~5' behind the bike and to look at the alignment of the chain (between the front sprokect and rear) in relation to the chain as it wraps over the top rear sprocket... it is surprising how small of a misalignment one can see by naked eye.
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:plus1:

Those marks should only be used as a rough starting point. Too many people have found them to be off on many different brands of bikes.

With modern O-ring chains there is really very little maintenance to do. Set the chain straight and adjust slack with the suspension compressed- you'd be surprised how many factory chain slack specs result in chain binding when the suspension is compressed. At that point there is little more to do. Some use no lube on their chains, since they are internally greased and sealed; some oil them just to keep the O-rings lubed. I always lubed mine, but not a crazy amount. Each ride we just put Amelia's Ninja on the center stand, spin the rear wheel by hand fairly quickly, and shoot the oil on until the full length has been done. Then grab a rag, wrap it around the chain, and spin the tire again- just make sure you are spinning so that your hand isn't going to be pulled into the sprocket if the rag catches.

We have been doing this to the original chain on Amelia's bike, and it has needed no adjustment since we bought it- 8k miles. The bike & chain have a total of 13k miles on them.
 
I put the bike on the centerstand. Use the marks for roughing it in. Then I rotate the wheel and watch to see if the sprocket teeth go in the center of the chain then adjust accordingly. The rear sprocket isn't always true and sometime goes from side to side in the chain. Try to find a happy medium.
 
Id just use the old string alignment method. Wrap a piece of string around the back tire so that it crosses the tread at the far back of the tire. Pulls it to the front tire. Sight down the string from the front tire and see if when the string just kisses the leading edge of the rear that it is parallel to the edges of the front tire. Any straight piece of metal or wood works too.. but not as easy to use alone. Check you Marks on the swingarm axle adjustment for true.. ding with a chisel to mark the real true if necessary.
 
Congrats on joining the dual ST/V-strom club. Now try not to spend all your time and energy pondering, "if I only had one, which would it be..." I do it daily.
 
I am thinking about joining the dual ST/V-strom club. I have a 2004 ST1300 that I really like for paved roads and recently had the opportunity to take a week-long test drive of a 2008 non-ABS Wee-Strom in the Dominican Republic. The bike was lowered, had grip puppies, and had the wind shield raised a bit.

For gravel and stone sections of road the strom handled great. I learned a new term (babyheads) to describe medium sized rocks in the roadway. There is no way I could have traveled these roads with my ST. The strom was much lighter and seemed to handle the rough stuff with ease.

I am now looking for a used Wee-Strom with aluminum panniers. Any thoughts on ABS versus non-ABS?
 
Look what the wind blew in from the west while I was in Greenville, TX.
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Wait till you see how Joe mounts all his farkles. Looks better than factory. He even uses rubber grommets when running wire through plastic. I might fly him in when I get new bike. ;)
 
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Good lord, those saddlebags look huge! Didn't notice that much in the picture Joe posted earlier.
 
BakerBoy said:
LOL, it looks overloaded already! :D
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It's overloaded alright, Joe used #2 welding cable for the primary leads from the battery. When he started it and switched on all the accoutrements my pocket knife flew out of my pocket and stuck to his bike. He's having the stator rewound in Germany for 5-phase output. Feeding that into a rectifier bridge and is hoping for somewhere around 1700 watts@12v. output. :rofl1:
 
Landon said:
Good lord, those saddlebags look huge! Didn't notice that much in the picture Joe posted earlier.
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Those are the limited edition Tom Cruise bags. The camera makes them look bigger than they really are.
 
Booger Man said:
Joe's a "farkle'in fool". Whowee stand back folks. Joe you load those bags with some of that BBQ?
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Lol nah I'm on a diet. BBQ on a Monday isn't the best idea but it was great to see Jeff
 
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