Fi diagnosis completes okfuel pump whine ok. After extended cranking steady Fi light. Walking to Kmart for pliers and a paperclip
The next thing to check would be continuity to the ECM, but checking the peak voltage there would accomplish the same thing. I'd do that first.Have continuity to ground on the connector white wire.
A multimeter that can catch and hold maximum voltage (which is a lot of them these days) will cover it.Any idea what's in a Honda peak voltage detector? Diode and capacitor maybe a bleed resistor?
The wiring diagram shows a coil but the system diagram in section 20 hints that it could be a Hall effect sensor. Does current flow at all across it? If you haven't, pull the sensor out of the engine and make sure nothing physically bad has happened to the business end.Any idea what kind of CKP sensor they use. I'm assuming it's a coil but they don't list a nominal resistance value across the 2 sensor pins
Sure what could go wrong...If you haven't, pull the sensor out of the engine and make sure nothing physically bad has happened to the business end.
--Mark
There was a tiny bit of metal on the end of the probe of the CKP. That lined up well with the small gouge on that probe. I'd guess the crank tone wheel still has all its teeth. We'll see.Am I seeing metal flakes on the end?
Crikey, that's not good.It's about a quarter of the bolt that used to hold the primary drive gear on.
Agreed. Are you the first owner, or is there a chance your bike was worked on before you owned it? Even though you're a century out of warranty, I'd still get in touch with Honda. They may want to check it out and might cover the cost of the repairs since it's an engine that's still in production. Couldn't hurt to ask, anyway.No way that bolt should break in a million miles.
Based on the cutaway diagram of the engine, I'd have to guess that the bolt gave out, the main gear slid forward far enough to run into the sensor and that was enough to make the ECM throw in the towel and stop running the engine. Seems like the inside of the engine cover should probably have held the entire works in place. I'll be interested to see what that looks like.There was a tiny bit of metal on the end of the probe of the CKP. That lined up well with the small gouge on that probe. I'd guess the crank tone wheel still has all its teeth. We'll see. ... I didn't feel a ugly ah carp noise when it died. Cranking to coax the Fi code sounded ok.
Bummer to hear of this failure. Regarding case hardening get depth... I doubt it is case hardened, but even so, it ks usually not realistic to see depth by eye.1st owner. Off the show room floor. I'm assuming case hard bolt does that look like it wasn't hardened deep enough?
Tomorrow is beach day or pulling the cover haven't received instruction yet LOL. It felt like the tone wheel was still there so I think the splines on the crank shaft may still be good.
As short as the pc is I'm thinking there's good purchase to extract the shank but yeah after a consult with the NJ ST whisperer Torrance is on the short list.