Article [13] ST1300 - Screen Mod

I did this mod some years ago, along with raising the vent cutout at the bottom of the screen and also fitting a Laminar Lip. My brackets were cut from an extrusion with a lip that drops into the bracket slot. The existing nut holds everything tightly. Buffeting is low, although there will always be some wind noise at the ears unless the screen is raised higher than I like. I still get great mileage on the road, as net drag is about the same.
 

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I just did the Mod moving the screen out about 3/4" - 1" and moved the bottom just slightly farther out.

I've only owned the ST1300 for about a month but moving the stock screen outward definitely helped
settle the bike down in dirty air. It's still not as solid as I'd like it but about a 60% improvement over
what it was. Took about two hours and $15 to make and install the brackets so certainly not a huge
time or cost, but a significant improvement.

I might try removing the inner cowlings to see if that helps settle things further as I have read that
removing them helps cool the bike and add to the stabilty at the same time ...... ? Will give it a try.
 
I found this thread a few days ago. I got the time to make my own today. I have to say with the first 10 miles on the interstate as a test, it worked wonderfully. I want to thank everyone for all the ideas and comments. Made mine out of steel bar stock with the offset to keep the windshield at the original height.

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Everyone - I saw several of you ask about what happens with rain after you extend out the windshield. Well I got to give it a good try this weekend.

Before I modified the bracket - I would have rain slide up the windshield and then curl around and get caught in the bubble of air behind the windshield. Hit my helmet, etc... I run a Clear-view shield. So I always had everything wet between the shield and my body after a long ride in the rain.

After I made this modification I found the water would stream up the shield, drip off the top and the extra air flow would push it right over me. Everything stayed completely dry while I was at speed. Of course sitting at the stop light cancelled all that out, but at highway speeds, it was great..
:)

With 6 hours of riding, I would highly recommend this change - especially in the rain. I haven't tried it with a passenger for turbulence back there yet, but if she's happy too - then it's really going to be fantastic.... Happy wife, happy life....
 
My version of modification. Very simple, cut bracket, cut metal to add, weld it, be done.... Since the area that I added it to doesn't change the mounting angles, nothing else neededBracket_DSC_5131.jpg
 
No, You are working on the wrong end of the bike.
Not so sure I agree with that. My St was very unstable in dirty air and had a weave over 100. Once I did the windscreen mod it is stable to 135 (never tested above that). The airflow over the front part of the bike can cause turbulence and unstable air anywhere behind the windscreen. Would be nice to have some wind tunnel tasting to back this up.
 
Not so sure I agree with that. My St was very unstable in dirty air and had a weave over 100. Once I did the windscreen mod it is stable to 135 (never tested above that). The airflow over the front part of the bike can cause turbulence and unstable air anywhere behind the windscreen. Would be nice to have some wind tunnel tasting to back this up.

Appreciate the feedback Couplers.
 
No, You are working on the wrong end of the bike.
I also am not sure that is the case. Quite some time ago (so don't remember where) I read on a Dutch forum that a local manufacturer produced brackets similar to what is discussed here with the sole purpose of addressing the weave issue (according to feedback on that forum with some success).
 
Well you might fix a wobble or weave, but the 'Pan Weave' was attributed to too much weight too high and the airflow on the rear of the bike. My own bike will start a weave at 111 mph if I have the trunk on with some weight in it, dead stable without trunk.

Now at other speeds and other circumstances my screen can produce some shake at high speeds, but that was not the 'Pan Weave'.
 
I made several sets of spacers to open the slot from .75" to 1.75" and ended up going back to stock. I just couldn't quantify any appreciable reduction in turbulence and noise plus the extra friction on the adjustment mechanism. ( from displacing the arms to fit the screen holes at the extra distance ) I didn't change the rake angle though and I'm short at 5' 6". This mod did not work for me.
 
About a week after getting my ST, I changed the rake of my oem windshield by 10 degrees. This reduced back pressure, and turbulence. The top edge of the shield moved back about 3 inches,,, and the lower front edge opened up the gap to the cowling by about 5/8". This allows more air up the back of the shield, and thus smooths out the flow at the top. I usually ride just looking over the top of the shield,,, but some times raise it higher and look through it, which is quieter. There is still more upper travel left, that I do not use. I am planning on getting a +2/+6 Cee Bailey soon,, so I won't do any more development until I get that and get a set of mirror deflectors mounted. But I am happy with this mod. It has been an improvement in about every way. Cheers,, Cat'
 
Sure,, Pete,
It was very quick and easy,,, some would say dirty,,, and it started out as just an experiment. But it worked so well, that I rode it like that for a couple of months. I am throwing down a disclaimer right now,,, as I trust myself to test things like this,,, but I can't take any responsibility for what others might try to do. I did not use any other hardware at all except a pair of small fender washers. First of all, my oem electric windshield is in the upper mounting position. I removed the lower fixing bolts,,, the ones that engage the slot with the opening (I think). Then I just pivoted the shield back on the upper bolt, and replaced the lower bolts to pinch on the outside of the slotted bracket, using a thin flat fender washer. This has to be done carefully,,, and to back it up, I applied a pair of nylon quick ties per side. Then I put the plastic trims back in place. It is hard to describe verbally,, so I will try to get a picture up, however I think one other owner did about the same thing, on one of the very first posts in this thread (without the quick ties),,, and he included a photo or two. Notes,,, I have not driven this at 100mph,,, but have put nearly 3300kms on it. Also,,, you have to watch for slight binding against the dash panel when in the lowest position, which I never use. I was going to install a CB shield,,, but have switched the plan to a Clearview +2h/+4w, I think it is, and am adding a pair of mirror deflectors. So its hard to say if I will keep the raked setup in future or not. If I was keeping my scratched up stock shield,,, I would definitely keep it raked. I will get all this new stuff installed during the winter months,,, but won't test it till spring. Hope this is clear enough to be helpful,,,, Cat'
 
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Yup - sounds quite easy to understand. The problem is that my bike is now in storage in London and thus, I can't do anything to it for several months...<sob>.
 
Yup - sounds quite easy to understand. The problem is that my bike is now in storage in London and thus, I can't do anything to it for several months...<sob>.

I went a slight different route. Removed the bracket, cut and welded in a piece of metal...
 

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Would you you be able to provide a couple more photos and perhaps a sketch of the finished brackets?

Pete

If you remove the bracket and set it on the table by this picture, it'll be self explanatory. The metal I welded in is 1 inch wide, pushing the windshield out about an inch. This winter I'll remove it and cut a slice out of it, tipping it back 10 degrees.. This method makes the adjustment where the bracket is still square to the bike. Modifications done closer to the windshield have to compensate for the outward bend of the bracket...
 
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