Clutch slave cylinder is leaking?!?

That's where the red arrow was pointing in the post that Bush responded to. That's the only place that I know of where ther's2 copper washers that seal the banjo fitting on the hose connecting the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder.

The cover with the name HONDA on it is the clutch cover and yes the RH exhaust pipe has to be removed. Why would
you need to remove the clutch cover to address a clutch slave cylinder problem?

Send a pic of exactly what you are referring to and maybe someone on here can shed more light on the subject. I'm looking in the FSM and don't see anything close to what you are describing.
 
STrolln_01 said:
That's where the red arrow was pointing in the post that Bush responded to. That's the only place that I know of where ther's2 copper washers that seal the banjo fitting on the hose connecting the clutch master cylinder and the clutch slave cylinder.
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I'll try to go to the shop today and take a picture of the service manual page, just to be sure...

STrolln_01 said:
The cover with the name HONDA on it is the clutch cover and yes the RH exhaust pipe has to be removed. Why would
you need to remove the clutch cover to address a clutch slave cylinder problem?
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I thought, while I'm already there, it would be good to clean it a bit deeper? I'm totally ok if I don't need. :D
 
You can use aluminum washers also besides copper. And I re-use mine all the time w/o a problem. An auto parts store or even a hardware store may have them. Make sure the ID is the same, tho. You don't want a sloppy fit on the ID.
 
Those are often called crush washers and they need to be a bit soft. A material like copper or aluminium is typical - NOT a steel washer from Home Despot or Lowes.

My Yamahas use identical parts and they are cheap so don't re-use olds ones.

Cheers,

Pete
 
This is what I was talking about.
The fiche on online stores are missing this part from my service manual (thanks John)

Clutch Slave Cylinder (1).jpg

And these are what I want to buy (recommended by the book)

Clutch Slave Cylinder (2).jpg

So, anybody knows what's the item #s?


BTW, the book and the online fiche are not the same on one other place: from the images above (and that's what I really need after I took these parts off of the bike) I need the buy #9 and #11.
On the online fiche there is only one part, #16?!? Dare I assume that #16 is actually one part made by parts #9 and #11 together?!?!? :(
 
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As ALWAYS! Regardless how much time you send looking for, the moment you post on a forum - you find the answer! :D
I'm assuming these are the washers?

Clutch wshers.PNG

It's on the Master cylinder fiche. :D
 
These are available from aftermarket sites as well. Check out www.denniskirk.com and search for banjo bolt washers. Come in 10 packs. I have reused washers (trash when they just don't look quite right), Honda spares and aftermarket spares. Never had a leak. I keep spares which I order from the Dennis Kirk website.
 
Afan:

Like I said in my other post, just bring the banjo bolt with you and go to your local auto parts store or any local motorcycle shop. The MC shop will definitely have these and most auto parts stores should, too. They are standard parts. Not unique to your ST1100. Either copper or aluminum will work just fine. You don't need to order these. Just buy them locally - even in Iowa.
 
Jim Van said:
Afan:

Like I said in my other post, just bring the banjo bolt with you and go to your local auto parts store or any local motorcycle shop. The MC shop will definitely have these and most auto parts stores should, too. They are standard parts. Not unique to your ST1100. Either copper or aluminum will work just fine. You don't need to order these.
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Sounds good to me. I'll do it. Thanks for the help.


Jim Van said:
Just buy them locally - even in Iowa.
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Outch! :(
 
Sorry Afan - I just couldn't resist. BTW, I bet even your local tractor supply company might have them :)

But if you can't find them locally ( you will, I bet ), the Honda PN is 90545-300-000 . See : Partzilla Clutch PN's Item #18
 
Huh ??? I never suggested Menards/Home Depot !!! I said try an auto parts store, motorcycle shop, or tractor supply store !!
 
Afan said:
But, as you suggested, I'm heading to Menards/Home Depot first...
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I will be surprised if you find these at Hopot. But, they have a lot of things that have surprised me in the past. Any auto parts store will have crush washers. Google 'crush washer' and you will get a zillion hits. Summit Racing (one of those small specialty shops that caters to all things automotive) sells assortments of these things - they are as common as fleas on a camel.
 
I very much doubt that HD would have the right thing Afan.

These are not just washers - they form a crucial part of a sealing mechanism because they are made of a relatively soft metal such as copper or aluminium which will deform slightly to conform to any surface imperfections in the hydraulic system components. That's why they're often called "crush" washers. In effect, they are exactly like gaskets.

The sort of washers sold at Home Despot and Lowes etc. are almost certainly steel which is much too hard to deform and thus will not seal properly.
 
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Sure Afan : Get a steel washer ( make sure it's one of those black, hardened steel washers, if you can ) at HD or Menards - it should work great !!
 
Afan said:
Yes, exactly. Thanks. Now, where (on fiche) I can find the item numbers for the copper bushings? Or Menards/Home Depot are good enough? :D
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Reread this thread and this is where Menards/Hopot came from.....

STrolln_01 said:
The copper washers should never be re-used. Good Luck with your project.
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Not exactly true. Copper work hardens and many guys get several usages out of the original washers. In a pinch, you can heat the washers cherry red and drop them into a glass of water to quench them (this anneals the copper - makes it soft again). Most of the oxide will flake off. Sand off what remains with fine sandpaper and you are good to go. IIRC, this was recommended for Triumph copper head gaskets many moons ago. Now, a few caveats - don't hold the copper washers while you are heating them - this is rough on the fingers :bow1:, and do not overheat them - if your torch is too large, the difference between cherry red and a round melted blob is pretty small. All in all, this is no trouble at all for a well equipped shop, but these things are cheap enough that there is no need for these shenanigans.
 
Afan said:
Yes, exactly. Thanks. Now, where (on fiche) I can find the item numbers for the copper bushings? Or Menards/Home Depot are good enough? :D
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Jim Van said:
Sure Afan : Get a steel washer ( make sure it's one of those black, hardened steel washers, if you can ) at HD or Menards - it should work great !!
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Grade 8, I think they call them. Good for suspension components too.
 
you can heat the washers cherry red and drop them into a glass of water to quench them (this anneals the copper - makes it soft again).
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TTBOMK there's no need to drop the hot copper washer in water or oil, you're not tempering steel here. Dunking the washer is just a quick way to cool it down. You can just set it down and leave it to cool to ambient. BTDT

John
 
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I have used copper washers a second time in both the car & MC's without developing a leak once. And I doubt it was because I was just lucky, because I'm not. And I slept like a baby after that, too.
 
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