Noted on the aforementioned. My local Honda dealer is 40mile away but I can get an assorted box of bango washers for £8 from Halfrauds which is a dearer way of doing it but they are local. Used to sand and heat them to soften and expand them in the bad old days. Never had a leak either, but can’t be arsed with all that nowadays.
Article [13] ST1300 - Secondary Master Cylinder Rebuild- SMC
- Thread starter 4jranch
- Start date
Goodridge Copper Crush Washers
These copper crush washers are essential when replacing/fitting chrome plated steel, mild steel and stainless fittings such as banjo bolts and hose fittings ensuring a correct, fluid tight seal.Crush washer sizes: -03 (3/8
www.demon-tweeks.com
Link doesn't take you to the page. Enter "Crush Washers" into the search bar
I bought 100. Just choose the size.
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I should have the SMC delivered to me tomorrow (Friday) so hopefully should have the bike back on the road for Sunday for a test ride. Should have it fitted and bled in a day right.
I have had the loan of my brother in laws Honda deuville in the meantime which is good of him but after riding the Pan a deuville feels bit agricultural with having 2 pistons. It don’t like pulling away in 2nd gear much either.
I have had the loan of my brother in laws Honda deuville in the meantime which is good of him but after riding the Pan a deuville feels bit agricultural with having 2 pistons. It don’t like pulling away in 2nd gear much either.
SMC arrived but was delivered two houses away as the part supplier put the wrong house number.
Part fitted and pulled the new fluid in using a hand vacuum pump but I couldn’t pull fluid out of the bleed nipple at the PCV or rear calliper. Not sure if this is to do with PCV or not. I did think at one point that perhaps the PCV was knackered as well. I decided to bleed the whole system again by pumping the cylinders this time, well the wife pumping the cylinders and me operating the bleed nipples, and I managed to get loads of air out of the PCV and rear calliper. Went out for a test ride and all seems to work as it should and no leaks.
I haven’t tried stripping the SMC as the circlip is well in there and the two 8mm bolts rounded even though using a 6 sided socket.
At the end of the day I’m just glad to have the bike back on the road.
Seems to me that the hand vacuum pump is good for emptying the lines and initially filling back up but to get all the air out pumping the cylinders s more reliable.
Thanks for all the advice given.
Next job respraying the tatty looking fuel cap.
Part fitted and pulled the new fluid in using a hand vacuum pump but I couldn’t pull fluid out of the bleed nipple at the PCV or rear calliper. Not sure if this is to do with PCV or not. I did think at one point that perhaps the PCV was knackered as well. I decided to bleed the whole system again by pumping the cylinders this time, well the wife pumping the cylinders and me operating the bleed nipples, and I managed to get loads of air out of the PCV and rear calliper. Went out for a test ride and all seems to work as it should and no leaks.
I haven’t tried stripping the SMC as the circlip is well in there and the two 8mm bolts rounded even though using a 6 sided socket.
At the end of the day I’m just glad to have the bike back on the road.
Seems to me that the hand vacuum pump is good for emptying the lines and initially filling back up but to get all the air out pumping the cylinders s more reliable.
Thanks for all the advice given.
Next job respraying the tatty looking fuel cap.
Hey Steve,
The answer is YES, of course.
But this is your first post so better leave the experts here advise you on that.
Also, expanding on what problem the bike is experiencing might help deciding on best course of action.
Problem is brakes front not come free complete afther cleaning and bleeding everything
Can do one turn almost with a good push on wheel
This without ride afther put everything together.
What is the function for the smc(second master cylinder)?The bike had also problems before with the rear brake unfortunately
I bought the bike like this.No history but it is a 2006 A6 europe model 41000km not miles.
Can do one turn almost with a good push on wheel
This without ride afther put everything together.
What is the function for the smc(second master cylinder)?The bike had also problems before with the rear brake unfortunately
I bought the bike like this.No history but it is a 2006 A6 europe model 41000km not miles.
So your current issue is with the front brakes?
The SMC (Secondary Master Cylinder) energizes the rear outer pistons when the front brakes are engaged. It is how the front and rear brakes are linked.
What were your rear brakes issues and how did you fix them? Did you do the work yourself?
I make a testride tomorrow and update the situation
The rod from the SMC is very hard to push in is this normal?
I would like to clean the SMC and know if there is a tiny hole that can make problems for example when blocked
I did the seven steps in the right order to bleed the brakes and cleaned the pistons in the calippers also..
The rod from the SMC is very hard to push in is this normal?
I would like to clean the SMC and know if there is a tiny hole that can make problems for example when blocked
I did the seven steps in the right order to bleed the brakes and cleaned the pistons in the calippers also..
Sounds like your SMC has failed, attempting to clean and rebuild it probably won’t fix things, the entire unit should be replaced, and your rear caliper bracket should be inspected as well.
What brand pads are you using?
You can verify if the piston is jammed up, which means the filter cartridge is probably clogged as well.
What brand pads are you using?
You can verify if the piston is jammed up, which means the filter cartridge is probably clogged as well.
The service manual warns you NOT to open the SMC unit up.
Doing so you could cause more issues not getting the depth correct.
You can verify if the piston is dragging or stuck in the bore, by opening the PCV and place a bleed tube on it, then manually pushing the piston down into the bore. If it is working correctly it should push in smoothly, and retract, about 1/2 inch or so.
If the PCV is open and you can’t gently push the piston in its entire length, you have your answer.
I would caution you not to ride your bike with these issues.
Doing so you could cause more issues not getting the depth correct.
You can verify if the piston is dragging or stuck in the bore, by opening the PCV and place a bleed tube on it, then manually pushing the piston down into the bore. If it is working correctly it should push in smoothly, and retract, about 1/2 inch or so.
If the PCV is open and you can’t gently push the piston in its entire length, you have your answer.
I would caution you not to ride your bike with these issues.
I have read a few threads about SMC depth adjustment. But I have not seen on SMC parts where an adjustment can be performed.
I bought and installed SMC piston set 45620-MCS-G04. I found no adjustment possibilities with the part.
Anybody have pictures showing how an SMC part can be adjusted?
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Underneath the rubber boot is what is basically a threaded rod that allows adjusting the distance that you see measured in the below photo courtesy of @jfheath.
This distance is fixed at the factory during assembly and altering it is not recommended.
The above photo of a service kit show the bracket which the mounting bolt passes, and which screws into the captive nut on the other side.
This entire black bracket is screwed on to a thread until it meets a locknut - which you can see - the shiny bit of metal between the bracket and the rubber boot.
This isn't there for adjustment. It is factory set.
I did have cause to remove this once. I took the precaution of measuring the length before disassembly using a caliper with a vernier gauge accurate to a hundredth of a mm. Not a digital one - they are not accurate enough, even if they do show 3 decimal places.
When I put it together again, even though the locknut had not moved, the reading was wrong. I took it apart, cleaned the faces and reassembled. That was correct.
The factory setting is correct for the positioning of the primary seal in relation to the tiny compensation port. There is nothing to adjust. If you disturb it and get it wrong, you will probably end up with a rear wheel lockup.
The warning should be taken seriously. Don't mess around with it. If you are at the stage where you think that some adjustment is necessary there are two things to say
1. You are wrong
2 . You should get a new smc.
Where are these threads which mention SMC adjustment? Not on this forum surely?
Do yourself a favour and close your account. It sounds like they have no idea what they are talking about.
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Obo
East Coast Canada
It could, but it shouldn't.
Yes.
But the same answer would apply to any part of the brake system that you care to mention.
It depends on who services it.
So for my bike for this year, the answer is No.
Probably.
What is your concern. If you have an old bike and you suspect that you have a brake issue, then you need to inspect and evaluate the entire system. In that position I would expect to be needing to replace boots, pistons, seals, in masters and slaves, SMC and rear caliper bracket. Then I'd go round and see which things dont need replacing.
But first of all, you need to know what the problem is. If you have binding brakes then that might be because you put the spacers in the front wheel incorrectly, or because you have started wearing police style riding boots, so you could spend all that time and miney without fixing the fact that you have started resting your new heavy boots on the brake pedal and cannot feel that is what is happening.
But the same answer would apply to any part of the brake system that you care to mention.
It depends on who services it.
So for my bike for this year, the answer is No.
Probably.
What is your concern. If you have an old bike and you suspect that you have a brake issue, then you need to inspect and evaluate the entire system. In that position I would expect to be needing to replace boots, pistons, seals, in masters and slaves, SMC and rear caliper bracket. Then I'd go round and see which things dont need replacing.
But first of all, you need to know what the problem is. If you have binding brakes then that might be because you put the spacers in the front wheel incorrectly, or because you have started wearing police style riding boots, so you could spend all that time and miney without fixing the fact that you have started resting your new heavy boots on the brake pedal and cannot feel that is what is happening.
