Article [13] ST1300 - Rear suspension / Resetting the pre-load adjustor [Video]

My 07 has 117,793km and was not touched. I got 7 clicks before movement. It's as simple as the video says. I removed the knob once I had it on my bench. But no need to remove, like the video says, turn all the way out and push the piston all the way down.
 
Thanks for the great info here. I just picked up an 03 that had the issue. Took me maybe 20 min to do, thats because of the inner plunger. After that smooth sailing.
 
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I picked up an '06 a little over a month ago. I find the ride stiff and harsh compared to the lighter weight cruiser bikes I have previously owned. Hopefully this fix will help.
 
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It is going to ride much tighter than a cruiser due to the different type bike it is. Sport Touring. An excellent handling bike. Can do just about all things well. I made sure the preload damper was serviced, added a Super Brace fork brace, aired the tires to 42 psi. Handles great! Let us know how it does after riding it a while. Be safe!
 
Appreciate the video. Mine was about 9 clicks with no resistance. An hour later, click one with resistance. may have missed it tin the video, but pay attention to the clocking of the banjo. Took me an extra 15 minutes to figure that out.
Thanks again!
RideOn, Ride Safe!
 
Well, 2 hours later, got-er done...

Seat, radio cowl, left upper faring and left saddlebag removed. Banjo adjuster hydraulic cable removed using 14mm and 10mm wrenches. Keeping washers in same order and sides on the banjo when removed.
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The jack oil found at PepBoys auto parts store. Removed the adjuster without removing the support bracket or the adjuster knob. KISS principle. (Note that the banjo fitting and hydrolic line are positioned up and as high as possible to keep the oil from running out)
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The remaining amount of oil in the adjuster, and why it could turn the full 36 clicks without any resistance - basically empty. Doubt it was ever checked. Being after this refill, that we only use the first 4 turns or so out of 36, it appears Honda knew the fluid dissipates over time and expected this pressure be checked periodically until there is no more resistance left.
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Proper amount of oil (this was the flush out step before refilling again)
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Adjuster refilled and preset as prescribed by IGOFAR - Larry’s instructions
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Right side shock to frame adjuster, also set


hi, I kindly ask one thing, how much oil do you need to put? what kind of oil? there is no air inside? A thousand thanks
 
hi, I kindly ask one thing, how much oil do you need to put? what kind of oil? there is no air inside? A thousand thanks
 
Hydraulic jack oil is what I used under direction from @Igofar . It doesn't take much, only a few onces / tens of milliliters. A syringe helps to fill with the least mess.
 
Fork oil, automatic transmission fluid, or hydraulic jack oil will suffice. It’s not a critical decision.

This is helpful:

 
yes ok, but if I remove the oil pipe, the air enters, then how do I remove it? on the brakes there is the bleed screw but here how do I do it?
 
yes ok, but if I remove the oil pipe, the air enters, then how do I remove it? on the brakes there is the bleed screw but here how do I do it?
Follow Igofar's instructions in this post. To make sure there is no air, when doing final assemply don't tighten the banjo bolt and start turning the knob. Some fluid should start coming out (assuming banjo is in the top position related to complete assembly. But I guess you will loose a couple clicks.

What I read here, brake line precision is not required here. Will be doing this work myself, see how it goes, but I am sure it is something you do and forget about that last possible air bubble.
 
Hi all,

Recently read an article about issues with the preload adjustor and how to fix them. I followed the guide and sorted mine today, so thought I would make a video showing the process in the entirety.

Thank you for the guide, and here's a link to the video.

Hi, what kind of oil did use for this?
Thanks
 
Hydraulic jack oil. The same oil that is used in all manner of hydraulic floor jacks and is readily and cheaply available at any auto parts retailer.

Hydraulic jack oil. The same oil that is used in all manner of hydraulic floor jacks and is readily and cheaply available at any auto parts retailer.
Thanks for respond.
When I eventually sort out real break seized then I'll have to do the oil.
 
When I eventually sort out real break seized then I'll have to do the oil

That "might" be a project, check out posts on this forum on the subject and relationship to SMC (Secondary Master Cylinder). Depending on the state of your bike maintenance (unknown to us) it may be as simple as cleaning/overhauling rear caliper and rear master cylinder, or cleaning/overhauling the SMC, or replacing SMC. Good articles on this forum on the subject.
 
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