ST1100 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement

Uncle Phil

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
ST1100 50,000 Mile Badge ST1100 100,000 Mile Badge ST1100 150,000 Mile Badge ST1100 150,000 Mile Badge
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
1,953
Age
73
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
3 ST1100(s)
2026 Miles
001823
@John OoSTerhuis - Is the ST1100 wheel bearing kit still available?
I've got a bad back one and I know the kit will save me many hours of 'drift' frustration. ;)

**EDIT - NEVER MIND, the center fell out so the kit won't do me any good.

When this happens, all is left is the bearing race - the way the wheel is constructed you can't get at the back of it.
The race 'sits' on a shelf in the wheel fully 'protected'.
Anybody have any good ideas as to how to get that race out?
Last time I had to carefully cut it with a cutting wheel so I am open to suggestions.

Rear Wheel.jpg
 
Last edited:
I think I see the collar sleeve / tube against the bearing in your rear wheel. You can start from the opposite side with a long drift where you press or tap the collar tube to the side of the bearing so that the inner ring of the bearing becomes visible. Then you can knock out the bearing or, in your case, knock out what is left... that is, the outer ring of the bearing.
 
If there are parts of the rim I see behind the outer bearing ring, then the option is a puller that spreads outward to then pull out the ring. Cooling the bearing ring can also be an option, or grinding/cutting the bearing ring so it loses tension and you can remove it.

But, you say it yourself ... carefully cut it with a cutting wheel.
 
tnbill said:
If you have a welder you can weld a bead all the way around the ID of the race it will fall out.
Click to expand...
Good suggestion :thumb: but you can also weld a piece of iron or screw on the correct length that goes across from side to side on the bearing ring, then it will be easy to knock it out.
 
increasing said:
Good suggestion :thumb: but you can also weld a piece of iron or screw on the correct length that goes across from side to side on the bearing ring, then it will be easy to knock it out.
Click to expand...
But this is a tight space and requires more welding expertise than I have. ;)
 
Can you put two small pieces of wood that are just big enough to fit in there and then tap in a thin shim or two between them to jam the pieces of wood in the race and give you leverage to pull it out?
 
There are some bearing pullers that work on the lip of the outer shell. You might need to insert the empty inner race to give it something to stop the puller part slipping out.

I’ve never used one, and have only seen them in passing. They are called blind bearing pullers - ie you cannot get to the bearing from the other side. You would want outer, rather than inner.

Something like this - obtained from a quick search only. Not a necessarily a recommendation. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0DPY8L...ZJgjLQXMNp&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWw

or see this video

https://www.amazon.in/live/video/1852c42c00dc4e45954a2b68f15f29b1


Or you might need to use a motorcycle dealer that has such a tool.
 
Last edited:
Find a washer that will sit just larger than the race inner edge and make a few tack welds around the washer edge. That doesn't take much skill. It'll take you longer to set it all up than to zap it.
 
I've used this kit in your situation, well worth the modest price. https://a.co/d/0tPVQFr
I had a race from a front st1300 wheel bearing (I think) sitting around for pictures. It expands to grab the race from the lip the balls formerly rode in.
 

Attachments

  • 20251106_181640.jpg
    20251106_181640.jpg
    92.4 KB · Views: 12
  • 20251106_181630.jpg
    20251106_181630.jpg
    96.8 KB · Views: 9
  • 20251106_181551.jpg
    20251106_181551.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 9
Last edited:
tonythecarguy said:
As Jfheath mentioned, there are tools for this situation. I've used this kit in your situation, well worth the modest price. https://a.co/d/0tPVQFr
I had a race from a front st1300 wheel bearing (I think) sitting around for pictures.
Click to expand...
That bit of kit will be coming soon to Uncle Phil's ST1100 Repair Shop (just ordered it) - that looks good!
With a Dremel cutoff wheel and a cold chisel I finally got it 'extricated' without too much damage to the wheel.
It's such a tight fit and a small steel race setting in an aluminum housing that welding could get a bit messy.
 
increasing said:
... start from the opposite side with a long drift where you press or tap the collar tube to the side of the bearing so that the inner ring of the bearing becomes visible. Then you can knock out the bearing...
Click to expand...
Actually the/my normal procedure... :unsure:
Got a large, pretty old screwdriver (with the metal shank extending through the handle) in the drawer, dedicated to this task...

A 'sliding hammer + bottom bearing puller kit' might as well be useful, but can't grip as long as the spacer tube is present...

BGS DIY 7715 Base Hole Bottom Bearing Puller Set 16 Pieces : Amazon.de: Automotive

BGS DIY 7715 Base Hole Bottom Bearing Puller Set 16 Pieces : Amazon.de: Automotive
www.amazon.de
Drive out RH wheel bearing first, remove spacer, then LH bearing...
(there is a cast lip in the wheel that'll get damaged if you attempt to remove the LHS one first!)

what I'd definitely recommend is a decent drive kit set made of steel, making installation a breeze...

Pressure Piece Drive Set Bearing Shells 52 Pieces Mounting Washers Bushings Simmering, 52 Pieces Pressure Piece Press Tool : Amazon.de: Automotive

Pressure Piece Drive Set Bearing Shells 52 Pieces Mounting Washers Bushings Simmering, 52 Pieces Pressure Piece Press Tool : Amazon.de: Automotive
www.amazon.de
(LH first, spacer, then RH till is 'slightly' touches the spacer tube... but I've a strong suspicion you're aware of that all... ;))
 
Last edited:
Uncle Phil said:
That bit of kit will be coming soon to Uncle Phil's ST1100 Repair Shop (just ordered it) - that looks good!
With a Dremel cutoff wheel and a cold chisel I finally got it 'extricated' without too much damage to the wheel.
It's such a tight fit and a small steel race setting in an aluminum housing that welding could get a bit messy.
Click to expand...
There you get a nice extractor set in many dimensions, which I tried to describe in the first post. Then you just have to wait until you have it at home :thumb: Extractors I have seen are used by unscrewing the bearing ring or the type where you use a hammer that pulls out the bearing ring corresponding to what you have ordered. Came across a type here where you knock out the bearing ring from the opposite side, video + link:

https://www.bearingprotools.com/pro...aq7vW4X1hvkCuYyCHsQptPqDo74AEB77T9f8NfKu5tbFN







IMG_4791.jpeg
 
ST1100Y said:
Actually the/my normal procedure... :unsure:
Got a large, pretty old screwdriver (with the metal shank extending through the handle) in the drawer, dedicated to this task...

A 'sliding hammer + bottom bearing puller kit' might as well be useful, but can't grip as long as the spacer tube is present...
[/URL][/URL]
Drive out RH wheel bearing first, remove spacer, then LH bearing...
(there is a cast lip in the wheel that'll get damaged if you attempt to remove the LHS one first!)

what I'd definitely recommend is a decent drive kit set made of steel, making installation a breeze...
[/URL][/URL]
(LH first, spacer, then RH till is 'slightly' touches the spacer tube... but I've a strong suspicion you're aware of that all... ;))
Click to expand...
Yes, that works until the center falls out and all you have left is the left hand race. :biggrin:
You would have thought that Honda would have designed the wheel so you could get at some of the race to whack it from the right side.
I've got one of them 'fancy' blind hole bearing pullers coming just in case there is a 'next time'! ;)
 
Last edited:
Uncle Phil said:
I've got one of them 'fancy' blind hole bearing pullers coming just in case there is a 'next time'! ;)
Click to expand...
Harbor Fright sells one of those kits. There is one store in Nashville... you could check it out in person. I hesitate to buy tools (especially cheap ones) sight unseen. At least Amazon offers a free return policy.
 
SMSW said:
Harbor Fright sells one of those kits. There is one store in Nashville... you could check it out in person. I hesitate to buy tools (especially cheap ones) sight unseen. At least Amazon offers a free return policy.
Click to expand...
If Tony The Car Guy says it's okay, it's okay! ;)
If I were a betting feller, the one on Amazon comes from the same factory as the one Harbor Freight sells.
I've got several 'cheap' Chinese tools for special purposes like these and they work reasonably well.
If it were something I was using everyday I'd buy differently.
For something I may use once every few years, it should do.
At the price, if it only works once it will be worth it!
 
Sounds like Phil and I have equivalent thoughts on cheap tools. I've used mine 2-3 times and those times I was in a jam and they saved me; they have given me value at their (low) price. Everytime I've used them I figured this will be the time they break (their design is such that a lot could go wrong in the hardening or metallurgy in a low cost factory), but so far so good. If I was using them regularly I would lay out 4 times the money for somthing like the bearing pro tools @increasing linked above. They look like a better made/longer lifetime tool.
 
tonythecarguy said:
Sounds like Phil and I have equivalent thoughts on cheap tools.
Click to expand...
I agree wholeheartedly. I just prefer to look over the tool first. I bought HF's blind bearing puller set not long ago and it functioned perfectly once. It has been sitting in my tool drawer ever since, unused. And yes, it was worth the cost for one use.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom