Yeah... I did wonder about that serious case of neglect and abuse though...Yes, that works until the center falls out and all you have left is the left hand race.
ST1100 Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement
- Thread starter Uncle Phil
- Start date
What I've read some will do is dremel out two notches on the inside of the wheel to allow a punch to contact the race prior to installing the new one.
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Uncle Phil
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I did think about that - or drilling a punch hole so you could get to the back.
I think either one would probably work.
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Uncle Phil
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I swapped the rear wheel when I converted RedBird to an ABSII.Yeah... I did wonder about that serious case of neglect and abuse though...
I did not think to pull the dust seal and check that bearing specifically.
It is always the left one with the ball bearings in it that seems to fail quickly and radically.
The wheel had about 130,000 miles on and there was no indication of immediate 'disassembly'.
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Uncle Phil
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RedBird is all back together now and hopefully I can take her for a test run tomorrow.
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increasing
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Totally agree, try to have tools that are used often of good quality. I have bought a number of tools that have never been used or some have been used once, these are tools bought on AliExpress, Temu, Biltema and similar stores.
IIRC, the ST1300 steering bearings recesses have such notches from the factory.
Am I missing something? Seems to me a drift with a 20 degree bend near the tip with the tip ground to catch the remnants of the outer bearing shell would do the trick. Before the invention of the STOC stem bearing R&R tool kit’s race remover, Mike Martin removed his with a bent piece of rebar with a tip ground to fit. Phil’s remaining shell looks to have a lot of surface to catch/drive on.
John
Speaking of notches, if you’re just removing the first (intact) bearing, it’s easy if the previous time you modified the distance collar like this:
PVC pipe used for illustrative purposes.
Edit: put the notches on just one end, the left side. So you remove the rear wheel’s left side single-row bearing first. Then you’ll have full access to the more-difficult-to
-remove right side double-row bearing with the distance collar now removed.
PVC pipe used for illustrative purposes.
Edit: put the notches on just one end, the left side. So you remove the rear wheel’s left side single-row bearing first. Then you’ll have full access to the more-difficult-to
-remove right side double-row bearing with the distance collar now removed.
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increasing
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Smart solution, then there will never be a problem again
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Uncle Phil
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I had one of those from the last time, but the race would not budge at all.
Thanks, John! This is what I remembered seeing. I've yet to do mine but I have a tire change coming up. Will Def make this mod when I do, though I doubt I'll ever need to replace it again after this.Speaking of notches, if you’re just removing the first (intact) bearing, it’s easy if the previous time you modified the distance collar like this:
PVC pipe used for illustrative purposes.
Edit: put the notches on just one end, the left side. So you remove the rear wheel’s left side single-row bearing first. Then you’ll have full access to the more-difficult-to
-remove right side double-row bearing with the distance collar now removed.
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Uncle Phil
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John - But will that help if there's only the race left since the race is 'protected' by the way the wheel is constructed?Speaking of notches, if you’re just removing the first (intact) bearing, it’s easy if the previous time you modified the distance collar like this:
PVC pipe used for illustrative purposes.
Edit: put the notches on just one end, the left side. So you remove the rear wheel’s left side single-row bearing first. Then you’ll have full access to the more-difficult-to
-remove right side double-row bearing with the distance collar now removed.
No. Note the key word, “intact.” “Speaking of notches” = Here’s a related idea…
John
This is what I had in mind - the angled drift:
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Uncle Phil
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I tried to get 'purchase' on that race from all sorts of angles with all sorts of chisels but I could not get enough to move it.
What amazes me is how quickly those ball bearings go south - once one comes out you're toast at that point.
They can check just fine and then miles later the trouble starts!
What amazes me is how quickly those ball bearings go south - once one comes out you're toast at that point.
They can check just fine and then miles later the trouble starts!
The last "failure" I'd observed was on ze GF's NT700VA right after we'd obtained it...
Entering a ramp and the front end made a sudden jerk upon leaning in...
Straight to the shed... and indeed, one of the (aftermarket) wheel bearings felt rough and had <1mm play...
Replaced with OEM set and all fine ever since...
So as <1mm play already causes such a jolt, I do wonder how folks ride on till the balls fall out without noticing...
I'm a bit anal on those, inspect smooth rotation and replenish waterproof grease behind and on the seal upon every time a wheel comes out...
Entering a ramp and the front end made a sudden jerk upon leaning in...
Straight to the shed... and indeed, one of the (aftermarket) wheel bearings felt rough and had <1mm play...
Replaced with OEM set and all fine ever since...
So as <1mm play already causes such a jolt, I do wonder how folks ride on till the balls fall out without noticing...
I'm a bit anal on those, inspect smooth rotation and replenish waterproof grease behind and on the seal upon every time a wheel comes out...
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Uncle Phil
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Front or rear? The ST1100 rear is pretty solid with a ball or two missing ... or so I've been told!The last "failure" I'd observed was on ze GF's NT700VA right after we'd obtained it...
Entering a ramp and the front end made a sudden jerk upon leaning in...
Straight to the shed... and indeed, one of the (aftermarket) wheel bearings felt rough and had <1mm play...
Replaced with OEM set and all fine ever since...
So as <1mm play already causes such a jolt, I do wonder how folks ride on till the balls fall out without noticing...
I'm a bit anal on those, inspect smooth rotation and replenish waterproof grease behind and on the seal upon every time a wheel comes out...
I've told this story before. A gf I had when I was in my low 20's drove down the freeway at 55-60 mph with her left rear wheel sparking on the pavement - she had shredded her tire and the rubber was completely gone. The only reason she stopped was because a young guy pulled alongside and waved her over to the shoulder. She later told me 'I thought the car was handling differently'. Neither the handling, sound or rooster tail of sparks was sufficient to make her pull over on her own.
Nothing to wonder about. Some folks are simply listening to a different drummer.
Front... and on a straight piece of road indeed only a slight fuzzy feeling on the handlebar, but a bit scary upon throwing it into a corner... <1mm play in a bearing multiplies to ~1" offset at the outer circumference...Front or rear? The ST1100 rear is pretty solid with a ball or two missing ... or so I've been told!