You're Not a REAL Biker Until You Know These!
- Thread starter Daboo
- Start date
I spy with my little eye... a Yamaha MT-01 
Click bait. I couldn’t get past the first three.
I FF'd through it. I'd be surprised if the author actually rides, or maybe they need to work on their AI prompts, lol.
I put it on 1.75 and 2x speed. And in some cases, just went to the next bike to see what they said. I thought they were actually pretty good on the first one. But then maybe I'm not a real biker.
I was very interested in their take on chains in the beginning. It kind of confirmed I'm doing things right.
Chris
I didn’t even agree with that one. The chain manufacturer’s grease is sealed inside the rollers by the O rings compressed tightly by the side plates. You’re not going to get grease in there by squirting lube at the O rings from the outside. I do agree that the least aggressive maintenance done to the chain is the best for it. Just wipe it clean, no aggressive brushes, and lightly lube with 80w90 oil mixed with ATF which conditions the o rings and prevents the chain from rusting. Done like this the rear wheel of my chain drive bikes stays as clean as any shaft drive bike I’ve owned.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I would have to agree with you about the chain Dave. If I understood him correctly he said that the "lube needs to get in to the sealed areas" (of the chain). That is when I stopped watching because that doesn't even make sense. If the chain is in good condition the lube can't get in there. That is the reason why the O-rings are there, to keep all foreign matter out of the sealed areas. If the lube can get in to those areas the sealing ability of the O-rings is compromised so I would think that the condition of the chain needs to be evaluated.
I will go back and have a look through the rest of the video because I am not foolish enough to think that this does not mean that there is nothing to be learned from the rest of the video but my immediate interest waned at hearing this.
I don't think it is that black and white. For background, the ST is my only non-chain driven bike (a first gen V-Max was my only other shaft-driven bike), and I've changed more chains/sprocket than I can count. Mostly on high(er) powered sport bikes, but on pretty much everything -- various sizes of Regina, DID, RK, EK, and even a few lesser known brands, and non, O-Ring, X-ring, Z-ring blah blah blah, running on both steel and aluminum sprockets of various pitches. Though I don't know many who use a "chain wax," the one thing in common is a noticeable difference between those bikes whose chains are maintained properly, and those that are not. Admittedly, I have very little experience with the Scottoiler system. With proper performance chain lubes, there is a small amount that seeps past the o-rings (etc.) and as the volatile "solvent" evaporates, there is some lube that remains. How much I have no idea, but i disagree that the lube cannot get past the rings. Otherwise, product like WD-40 could not seep past the rings and dry out your chain.
$1500 chain kit mentioned by the AI narrator? I use some very high end components considered among the best, but nowhere near $1500. More sensationalist BS.
$1500 chain kit mentioned by the AI narrator? I use some very high end components considered among the best, but nowhere near $1500. More sensationalist BS.
ReSTored
Site Supporter
Yes, chains are supposed to be sealed by intact o rings, so lube really doesn't penetrate . I use gear lube for mine. I also use aerosol chain lube over the winter storage season as it is better than just gear lube in preventing surface rust on the side of the chain link. Come spring I use a rag soaked in kerosene to remove excess lube as it just attracts grime on the road.
splitting hairs on this words.....Key reasons for lubrication
- Protect the O-rings: Lube keeps the rubber seals from drying out, hardening, cracking, and becoming brittle, which maintains their sealing ability.
- Prevent rust: It creates a barrier against moisture and oxygen, stopping rust and corrosion on the metal side plates, which can create rough spots that damage the O-rings.
Very true.....
Lubing a chain is more about the friction between the moving chain and the sprockets, the rollers and the inside of the chain side plates.
If you let it run dry the friction causes the chain to heat up excessively and this will destroy the chain faster by damaging the o-rings and losing the internal lube from the chain.
Lubing is for cooling and lubrication to reduce friction between moving parts.
After cleaning I spray ACF50 on my chain and I have a Tutoro auto chain lube device that requires neither power or vacuum to work!
Sorry if this is egg suckery to some but when I used to mention this to folks learning to ride or advanced rider mentoring, blank expressions were not uncommon.
Of course having re-read the above it does really sound a bit obvious, but some folk didn't even know they had to clean the chain never mind lube it.....
Modern chains last a long time if looked after, my current NT1100 had its first replacement at 25,000 miles, which I consider quite good for an 1100cc bike!
If I have posted a similar post elsewhere on the forum please accept my apologies for repetition!
BTW Don't get me started on the two stroke era.....
Lubing a chain is more about the friction between the moving chain and the sprockets, the rollers and the inside of the chain side plates.
If you let it run dry the friction causes the chain to heat up excessively and this will destroy the chain faster by damaging the o-rings and losing the internal lube from the chain.
Lubing is for cooling and lubrication to reduce friction between moving parts.
After cleaning I spray ACF50 on my chain and I have a Tutoro auto chain lube device that requires neither power or vacuum to work!
Sorry if this is egg suckery to some but when I used to mention this to folks learning to ride or advanced rider mentoring, blank expressions were not uncommon.
Of course having re-read the above it does really sound a bit obvious, but some folk didn't even know they had to clean the chain never mind lube it.....
Modern chains last a long time if looked after, my current NT1100 had its first replacement at 25,000 miles, which I consider quite good for an 1100cc bike!
If I have posted a similar post elsewhere on the forum please accept my apologies for repetition!
BTW Don't get me started on the two stroke era.....
25K is great for a chain. I changed my XR's chain at around 16.5K; I thought mine was going to last that long. The chain was great till I rode to New Mexico and then the wear rate went fast. I think the cause of that was riding on some dirt roads and not having a way to clean it well.
BTW, I'll take any advice on chain maintenance. This is my first chain bike since around 1980. Back then, I think I was like you mentioned with the blank expressions. The only advice I got back then was on how to shift.
Chris
BTW, I'll take any advice on chain maintenance. This is my first chain bike since around 1980. Back then, I think I was like you mentioned with the blank expressions. The only advice I got back then was on how to shift.
Chris
My last NC700X chain went over 27,000 miles. The OEM chain went only 10,400 miles and I installed a DID VX3 and maintained it as above in #6.
NT1100 - At 9300 miles the OEM rear tire was done and replaced. With the maintenance schedule learned from the NC700X I didn't have to tighten the NT1100 chain from mile 1 to removing it to remove the wheel for a new tire.
When I used to maintain the chain with chain cleaner and aerosol chain lubricants I never got this kind of service life.
NT1100 - At 9300 miles the OEM rear tire was done and replaced. With the maintenance schedule learned from the NC700X I didn't have to tighten the NT1100 chain from mile 1 to removing it to remove the wheel for a new tire.
When I used to maintain the chain with chain cleaner and aerosol chain lubricants I never got this kind of service life.
peterz
Site Supporter
What ratio are you using for the mix?
50/50 and applied in the measure of only 1 dip of a toothbrush in the mixture.
Chains???? What is that nonsense?
Yes, applied to the bottom run of the chain while turning the wheel by hand.
My 2017 MT-10 Yamaha is still on its original chain and sprockets after 48,000km! I was suprised too. The sprockets are in great shape, the chain is free of tight spots and runs very smoothly. I think the quality of chain that Yamaha supplied, and my maintenance schedule, are probably responsible for this.
Like all my bikes, the MT-10 is a toy for a spirited day ride, and after each use it gets cleaned, dried, and the chain is lubed with whatever o-ring specific aerosol I have to hand. I spray on the inside bottom run aiming at the o-rings on each side, then wipe off the excess. I am also anal about chain tension, and maintain this at the looser end of the specification (the manual calls for 25-35mm on a maintenance stand). I get very little fling onto the wheel but I do pull off the sprocket cover every few thousand km and dig out the schmoo from there.
Like all my bikes, the MT-10 is a toy for a spirited day ride, and after each use it gets cleaned, dried, and the chain is lubed with whatever o-ring specific aerosol I have to hand. I spray on the inside bottom run aiming at the o-rings on each side, then wipe off the excess. I am also anal about chain tension, and maintain this at the looser end of the specification (the manual calls for 25-35mm on a maintenance stand). I get very little fling onto the wheel but I do pull off the sprocket cover every few thousand km and dig out the schmoo from there.