This is the link that got me started this morning and led to the other two threads. Good stuff.
Chris
Chris
You're Not a REAL Biker Until You Know These!
- Thread starter Daboo
- Start date
I spy with my little eye... a Yamaha MT-01 
Click bait. I couldn’t get past the first three.
I FF'd through it. I'd be surprised if the author actually rides, or maybe they need to work on their AI prompts, lol.
OP
OP
I put it on 1.75 and 2x speed. And in some cases, just went to the next bike to see what they said. I thought they were actually pretty good on the first one. But then maybe I'm not a real biker.
I was very interested in their take on chains in the beginning. It kind of confirmed I'm doing things right.
Chris
I didn’t even agree with that one. The chain manufacturer’s grease is sealed inside the rollers by the O rings compressed tightly by the side plates. You’re not going to get grease in there by squirting lube at the O rings from the outside. I do agree that the least aggressive maintenance done to the chain is the best for it. Just wipe it clean, no aggressive brushes, and lightly lube with 80w90 oil mixed with ATF which conditions the o rings and prevents the chain from rusting. Done like this the rear wheel of my chain drive bikes stays as clean as any shaft drive bike I’ve owned.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I would have to agree with you about the chain Dave. If I understood him correctly he said that the "lube needs to get in to the sealed areas" (of the chain). That is when I stopped watching because that doesn't even make sense. If the chain is in good condition the lube can't get in there. That is the reason why the O-rings are there, to keep all foreign matter out of the sealed areas. If the lube can get in to those areas the sealing ability of the O-rings is compromised so I would think that the condition of the chain needs to be evaluated.
I will go back and have a look through the rest of the video because I am not foolish enough to think that this does not mean that there is nothing to be learned from the rest of the video but my immediate interest waned at hearing this.
I don't think it is that black and white. For background, the ST is my only non-chain driven bike (a first gen V-Max was my only other shaft-driven bike), and I've changed more chains/sprocket than I can count. Mostly on high(er) powered sport bikes, but on pretty much everything -- various sizes of Regina, DID, RK, EK, and even a few lesser known brands, and non, O-Ring, X-ring, Z-ring blah blah blah, running on both steel and aluminum sprockets of various pitches. Though I don't know many who use a "chain wax," the one thing in common is a noticeable difference between those bikes whose chains are maintained properly, and those that are not. Admittedly, I have very little experience with the Scottoiler system. With proper performance chain lubes, there is a small amount that seeps past the o-rings (etc.) and as the volatile "solvent" evaporates, there is some lube that remains. How much I have no idea, but i disagree that the lube cannot get past the rings. Otherwise, product like WD-40 could not seep past the rings and dry out your chain.
$1500 chain kit mentioned by the AI narrator? I use some very high end components considered among the best, but nowhere near $1500. More sensationalist BS.
$1500 chain kit mentioned by the AI narrator? I use some very high end components considered among the best, but nowhere near $1500. More sensationalist BS.
Yes, chains are supposed to be sealed by intact o rings, so lube really doesn't penetrate . I use gear lube for mine. I also use aerosol chain lube over the winter storage season as it is better than just gear lube in preventing surface rust on the side of the chain link. Come spring I use a rag soaked in kerosene to remove excess lube as it just attracts grime on the road.
splitting hairs on this words.....Key reasons for lubrication
- Protect the O-rings: Lube keeps the rubber seals from drying out, hardening, cracking, and becoming brittle, which maintains their sealing ability.
- Prevent rust: It creates a barrier against moisture and oxygen, stopping rust and corrosion on the metal side plates, which can create rough spots that damage the O-rings.