Battery Drain no crank after 3 days sitting

dwalby said:
there is a voltage drop across anything carrying current, and even more drop if there's corrosion in the path somewhere. So, depending on where you're measuring voltage as you move away from the battery you're going to get a different result.

What's the voltage with the bike running at the battery terminals? If you're over 14 there then all these other readings don't really mean much, and as has been mentioned before it could be the battery itself even though its not very old.
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Installed new battery. No change until I disconnect right side instrument panel connector. Then reading is 0.06 mA.
Three circuits are affected. Trying to figure out location of power breach.
 
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Terminator2 said:
Thank you for your patience. Amp draw Was 0.76. During my testing (while) ground disconnected with MM attached, I turned key to on position. Result was
the current amp draw of 4.69.
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That doesn't really mean very much. Since you are investigating a potential parasitic current drain when the ignition key is in the off position the critical data is what is the amperage draw when the key is in the off position.
 
Terminator2 said:
Installed new battery. No change until I disconnect right side instrument panel connector. Then reading is 0.06 mA.
Three circuits are affected. Trying to figure out location of power breach.
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what may be the case is there's a circuit there like the clock, etc. that needs power to retain data. Your original parasitic draw was pretty small to begin with, run it a few days with the new battery and see if anything has changed.

the goal isn't to get the parasitic draw down to zero, that's not possible. Your original issue was your battery wore down after 3 days not riding, give the new battery 3 days and see if your issue is fixed.
 
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Andrew Shadow said:
That doesn't really mean very much. Since you are investigating a potential parasitic current drain when the ignition key is in the off position the critical data is what is the amperage draw when the key is in the off position.
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Key off position 4.90mA. Getting worse as I move the harness.
 
Terminator2 said:
Thank you Al. I'm trying to understand cause of pending failure. I installed this oem alternator 16k miles ago with new alternator harness. My bike odo is 108k today. Guess I'll dig out former failed alternator and attempt to find fail point.
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lets eliminate the alternator while sitting, charge battery and unplug the alt main connector, let it sit a couple days and see if it's dead. Also with the main lead unplugged check resistance from alt side of the lead to ground.
 
Al st1100 said:
What is that red wire in the first video. Does that go to the alternator as I assumed?
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Red wire in first video is connected to alternator harness and 65 amp fuse above battery. No rodent damage (I ride too much, lol). I'll have some more info by July 6. Thanks guys.
 
Sheesh. Ground is coming from alternator post. The parasitic draw is hovering 4.7mA. Thanks everyone for all your input. Btw, anyone have a source for rectifiers for this alternator?
 
So the obvious question is how did you go from 0.77mA in the first video to 4.7mA now?
 
4.7 is less than twice the allowable limit, don't you think that the battery should last more than 3 days ?
 
When I had my alternator out I seem to remember the way the alternator post was fastened to the alternator was not what I expected. Is it possible for it to be loose and grounding to the case?
 
woodybelle said:
4.7 is less than twice the allowable limit, don't you think that the battery should last more than 3 days ?
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seems like it should with a new battery. Its been 5 days since the new battery was installed, would be interesting to hear if the original no crank after 3 days issue has cleared up.
 
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