If not now, then..... when?

I'm not able to discuss intelligently the merits of the IDL, or even the nuances of each country's requirements. We were never stopped, so I can't even opine from experience. Knofpt told me I needed to have it, and I got it. It was $20 at the AAA store, and that included a year's membership to AAA (I got a couple of free Europe maps). The whole process took like 15 minutes. Don't worry, be happy. Ride more, stress less.

Before the trip, I pitched the idea of a side jaunt to the Pyreneese. Greg discouraged it - takes a couple of days to get to them (from the Alps) and a couple of days to get back - all 4 days would have been not very good riding. Of coruse I yielded. If I go back to Europe to ride, that will be something to revisit for sure.

Since we have such a small airport, we have only 3 airlines to choose from (United, Delta, American) and obviously, there will be at least one stop. I had 2 going (Houston, Heathrow), and only 1 coming (Houston). On the plus side, our small airport (only 5 gates) is a BREEZE to get through security, check in, etc. We plan 45 minutes from the moment we step in the terminal, but it RARELY takes more than 20 minutes total. Drop off and pick up is at the front door of the terminal. Cell lot is like 150 feet away. There is something to be said for that.

Regarding budget, again, I'm sharing in good faith what I actually paid. There are many ways to do it. Quite frankly, being frugal... errr.... a cheap bastage, there were plenty opportunities for me to trim some cost specifically with lodging and food. As an example, every day, Greg stopped (either mid-morning or mid-afternoon) for coffee, pastry, snacks, etc. That was basically $10-$15 a day that I would have largely skipped. However, in all fairness, this was THEIR vacation too, and I know factually that Greg and the others enjoyed those stops to have refreshments and the socialization, the view, etc. And I enjoyed it as well - I was happy to go along with that change in my own personal normal routine. In the end, I don't think it would have made that much differenc (maybe 10% in food cost) and moreover, I was with the group, and in the end, the group decides. Also, as I mentioned in the ride report, very early on, we decided to let Greg and Bryan choose the lodging and put it on their credit card for dividing up cost later. At that point, I stopped commenting in any regard on the lodging chosen. Whatever ya'll decide, I'm good with. Maybe I would have found something less expensive, very likely not. Regardless, once I let that go (and I did), it was very freeing not to be concerned with it. I distinctly remember one afternoon when it was warm. While I was swimming in the river, Greg and Bryan made lodging arrangements for that evening. Pretty cool.

The extra expense in Switzerland was a no-brainer. If you want to play, you gotta pay. The riding there is unparrelled from all angles. The dollar is not very strong now compared to the Euro or the Franc, but again, we are there and then was NOT the time to pinch pennies. With the Iranian war, fuel ended up being more expensive than we planned for, but again, what are you gonna do? The motorcycle doesn't run on air.

Basically, I bought the farm and the cows. I might as well get the ranch with it. I'm very happy I did it and do not regret the expense one bit.
 
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I'm not able to discuss intelligently the merits of the IDL, or even the nuances of each country's requirements. We were never stopped, so I can't even opine from experience. Knofpt told me I needed to have it, and I got it. It was $20 at the AAA store, and that included a year's membership to AAA (I got a couple of free Europe maps). The whole process took like 15 minutes. Don't worry, be happy. Ride more, stress less.

Before the trip, I pitched the idea of a side jaunt to the Pyreneese. Greg discouraged it - takes a couple of days to get to them (from the Alps) and a couple of days to get back - all 4 days would have been not very good riding. Of coruse I yielded. If I go back to Europe to ride, that will be something to revisit for sure.

Since we have such a small airport, we have only 3 airlines to choose from (United, Delta, American) and obviously, there will be at least one stop. I had 2 going (Houston, Heathrow), and only 1 coming (Houston). On the plus side, our small airport (only 5 gates) is a BREEZE to get through security, check in, etc. We plan 45 minutes from the moment we step in the terminal, but it RARELY takes more than 20 minutes total. Drop off and pick up is at the front door of the terminal. Cell lot is like 150 feet away. There is something to be said for that.

Regarding budget, again, I'm sharing in good faith what I actually paid. There are many ways to do it. Quite frankly, being frugal... errr.... a cheap bastage, there were plenty opportunities for me to trim some cost specifically with lodging and food. As an example, every day, Greg stopped (either mid-morning or mid-afternoon) for coffee, pastry, snacks, etc. That was basically $10-$15 a day that I would have largely skipped. However, in all fairness, this was THEIR vacation too, and I know factually that Greg and the others enjoyed those stops to have refreshments and the socialization, the view, etc. And I enjoyed it as well - I was happy to go along with that change in my own personal normal routine. In the end, I don't think it would have made that much differenc (maybe 10% in food cost) and moreover, I was with the group, and in the end, the group decides. Also, as I mentioned in the ride report, very early on, we decided to let Greg and Bryan choose the lodging and put it on their credit card for dividing up cost later. At that point, I stopped commenting in any regard on the lodging chosen. Whatever ya'll decide, I'm good with. Maybe I would have found something less expensive, very likely not. Regardless, once I let that go (and I did), it was very freeing not to be concerned with it. I distinctly remember one afternoon when it was warm. While I was swimming in the river, Greg and Bryan made lodging arrangements for that evening. Pretty cool.

The extra expense in Switzerland was a no-brainer. If you want to play, you gotta pay. The riding there is unparrelled from all angles. The dollar is not very strong now compared to the Euro or the Franc, but again, we are there and then was NOT the time to pinch pennies. With the Iranian war, fuel ended up being more expensive than we planned for, but again, what are you gonna do? The motorcycle doesn't run on air.

Basically, I bought the farm and the cows. I might as well get the ranch with it. I'm very happy I did it and do not regret the expense one bit.
You sound like an ideal riding companion. Anytime you are in my neck of the woods, let me know and I can "tour" you around a bit!!
 
I'm not able to discuss intelligently the merits of the IDL, or even the nuances of each country's requirements. We were never stopped, so I can't even opine from experience. Knofpt told me I needed to have it, and I got it. It was $20 at the AAA store, and that included a year's membership to AAA (I got a couple of free Europe maps). The whole process took like 15 minutes. Don't worry, be happy. Ride more, stress less.

Before the trip, I pitched the idea of a side jaunt to the Pyreneese. Greg discouraged it - takes a couple of days to get to them (from the Alps) and a couple of days to get back - all 4 days would have been not very good riding. Of coruse I yielded. If I go back to Europe to ride, that will be something to revisit for sure.

Since we have such a small airport, we have only 3 airlines to choose from (United, Delta, American) and obviously, there will be at least one stop. I had 2 going (Houston, Heathrow), and only 1 coming (Houston). On the plus side, our small airport (only 5 gates) is a BREEZE to get through security, check in, etc. We plan 45 minutes from the moment we step in the terminal, but it RARELY takes more than 20 minutes total. Drop off and pick up is at the front door of the terminal. Cell lot is like 150 feet away. There is something to be said for that.

Regarding budget, again, I'm sharing in good faith what I actually paid. There are many ways to do it. Quite frankly, being frugal... errr.... a cheap bastage, there were plenty opportunities for me to trim some cost specifically with lodging and food. As an example, every day, Greg stopped (either mid-morning or mid-afternoon) for coffee, pastry, snacks, etc. That was basically $10-$15 a day that I would have largely skipped. However, in all fairness, this was THEIR vacation too, and I know factually that Greg and the others enjoyed those stops to have refreshments and the socialization, the view, etc. And I enjoyed it as well - I was happy to go along with that change in my own personal normal routine. In the end, I don't think it would have made that much differenc (maybe 10% in food cost) and moreover, I was with the group, and in the end, the group decides. Also, as I mentioned in the ride report, very early on, we decided to let Greg and Bryan choose the lodging and put it on their credit card for dividing up cost later. At that point, I stopped commenting in any regard on the lodging chosen. Whatever ya'll decide, I'm good with. Maybe I would have found something less expensive, very likely not. Regardless, once I let that go (and I did), it was very freeing not to be concerned with it. I distinctly remember one afternoon when it was warm. While I was swimming in the river, Greg and Bryan made lodging arrangements for that evening. Pretty cool.

The extra expense in Switzerland was a no-brainer. If you want to play, you gotta pay. The riding there is unparrelled from all angles. The dollar is not very strong now compared to the Euro or the Franc, but again, we are there and then was NOT the time to pinch pennies. With the Iranian war, fuel ended up being more expensive than we planned for, but again, what are you gonna do? The motorcycle doesn't run on air.

Basically, I bought the farm and the cows. I might as well get the ranch with it. I'm very happy I did it and do not regret the expense one bit.
One has to remember this type of trip was most likely a once in a life time trip for most people. One will not remember the cost in the future but will remember the adventure and smiles. In the scheme of things a few dollars more here or there is not that important. I speak of my two Euro Moto trips. If the cost did not keep one from putting food on the table or did not keep from paying monthly bills then it is all good.

I am lucky, I guess. I have DIA (Denver International Airport) 20 min. from the house (on a good traffic day :giggle: ) with direct flights to Munich or Frankfurt, Germany
 
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UK Vehicle registration document. It is created by the licensing authority on initial registration of the vehicle. Then stays with the vehicle for it's life, if you sell, or dispose of the vehicle you are required to submit the details of the new owners on a tear off slip, a new V5 is then issued to the new registered owner. Example photo's attached. The style of the V5's has recently changed, but the basic details have stayed the same.

v5c page 1.jpgv5c pages 2-3.jpg
OK, just another way of saying vehicle registration documents. I presume this is not the title or legal ownership doc.
 
We normally were renting bikes in Milano as it is pretty close to Alps and we have direct flights by Emirates which is one of the best and least expensive airlines.
This year we flew to Geneva and rented in Annemasse France because my bodies asked me to show them the French Alps.
As for the Pyrenees normally from Barcelona is flying out of USA
 
I'm not able to discuss intelligently the merits of the IDL, or even the nuances of each country's requirements. We were never stopped, so I can't even opine from experience. Knofpt told me I needed to have it, and I got it. It was $20 at the AAA store, and that included a year's membership to AAA (I got a couple of free Europe maps). The whole process took like 15 minutes. Don't worry, be happy. Ride more, stress less.

Before the trip, I pitched the idea of a side jaunt to the Pyreneese. Greg discouraged it - takes a couple of days to get to them (from the Alps) and a couple of days to get back - all 4 days would have been not very good riding. Of coruse I yielded. If I go back to Europe to ride, that will be something to revisit for sure.

Since we have such a small airport, we have only 3 airlines to choose from (United, Delta, American) and obviously, there will be at least one stop. I had 2 going (Houston, Heathrow), and only 1 coming (Houston). On the plus side, our small airport (only 5 gates) is a BREEZE to get through security, check in, etc. We plan 45 minutes from the moment we step in the terminal, but it RARELY takes more than 20 minutes total. Drop off and pick up is at the front door of the terminal. Cell lot is like 150 feet away. There is something to be said for that.

Regarding budget, again, I'm sharing in good faith what I actually paid. There are many ways to do it. Quite frankly, being frugal... errr.... a cheap bastage, there were plenty opportunities for me to trim some cost specifically with lodging and food. As an example, every day, Greg stopped (either mid-morning or mid-afternoon) for coffee, pastry, snacks, etc. That was basically $10-$15 a day that I would have largely skipped. However, in all fairness, this was THEIR vacation too, and I know factually that Greg and the others enjoyed those stops to have refreshments and the socialization, the view, etc. And I enjoyed it as well - I was happy to go along with that change in my own personal normal routine. In the end, I don't think it would have made that much differenc (maybe 10% in food cost) and moreover, I was with the group, and in the end, the group decides. Also, as I mentioned in the ride report, very early on, we decided to let Greg and Bryan choose the lodging and put it on their credit card for dividing up cost later. At that point, I stopped commenting in any regard on the lodging chosen. Whatever ya'll decide, I'm good with. Maybe I would have found something less expensive, very likely not. Regardless, once I let that go (and I did), it was very freeing not to be concerned with it. I distinctly remember one afternoon when it was warm. While I was swimming in the river, Greg and Bryan made lodging arrangements for that evening. Pretty cool.

The extra expense in Switzerland was a no-brainer. If you want to play, you gotta pay. The riding there is unparrelled from all angles. The dollar is not very strong now compared to the Euro or the Franc, but again, we are there and then was NOT the time to pinch pennies. With the Iranian war, fuel ended up being more expensive than we planned for, but again, what are you gonna do? The motorcycle doesn't run on air.

Basically, I bought the farm and the cows. I might as well get the ranch with it. I'm very happy I did it and do not regret the expense one bit.
Along those lines, my trusty camera died (days before cell phone cameras were very good) while on my Alps trip. The same camera I could buy all day back home at Wal-Mart for $200 or less was $500 in Europe. I figured I was already in deep and not having pictures would be far more 'expensive' to me than the extra $300. If you're gonna dance, you sometimes have to pay the fiddler extra! ;)
 
Another thing to keep in mind.....not all bike rental outfits are the same. You usually get what you pay for. Nothing impacts a trip like having to waste a couple of days getting a bike repaired.

I honestly can't remember what my trips cost, but I sure can remember what I did, rode, and saw.
 
You usually get what you pay for. Nothing impacts a trip like having to waste a couple of days getting a bike repaired.
Rent in the reputable renting agencies like HPMotorrad or Moto-Plasir, etc.. Their bikes are from one or two years old to new. I had a 2026 v85tt (109 euro/day), and others late models f800, or cb500.
 
Hey HPPants, thank you for taking your time to post this report and all the pics. Awesome!
You mentioned somewhere in the report that you were not too enamored with the Africa Twin. How so? Pros and cons from a real world "test drive"?
 
Before the trip, I pitched the idea of a side jaunt to the Pyreneese
If you go back again, I recommend spending time in the French Alps. Many riders from America tend to think of the Alps as Switzerland, Austria and perhaps the Dolomites, but France is loaded with great riding. They have highest of the high passes (4 of top 5) plus many more, lots of cool goat trail roads, balcony roads (carved out of the side of the mountain) like the Combe Laval and further south a variety of gorges alongside rivers carved through the rocks/mountains, the best know is Gorges du Verdun, often referred to as the Grand Canyon of Europe. The people are nice and the food is excellent. It is also affordable. I usually go once in June and again in September. I've pasted a few French Alps photos below.

the others enjoyed those stops to have refreshments and the socialization, the view, etc.

There are always a mix of riders, some want to save money and/or buy food, snacks, etc. in the morning and eat at a nice picnic spot by the side of the road. Others prefer to stop at restaurants, mountain Refugios, etc. for the reasons noted, local refreshments, socialization with other riders or food servers, to use the restroom facilities, etc. - maybe because it is Europe and something different to experience. I have experimented with doing it both ways over the years. I would estimate maybe 80% - 85% prefer to stop at a pastry shop, Refugio, etc. - maybe 10% prefer picnicking and the remaining 5% or so are neutral. I personally prefer to stop. I have also gotten to know some of the people at some of the places we stop, and my group members get a kick out of walking into a remote Refugio and the person behind the counter calls out "It's Charlie - the American, he's back" - it's fun.

You look like you had a great trip and a fun time riding some of the best roads in the world - can't ask for more than that.

Combe Laval 1.jpgCombe Laval 2.jpgRoad-to-Col-de-lIseran.jpgCol Iseran.jpgVerdun.jpg
 
Yes, French Alps are amazing.
Take route D902 (Route de Grandes Alpes) and explore the scenery, many mountains passes and all along the way. It is about 440 miles and can take few days to ride. Then ride back up on the other side as mentioned above thru du Verdon, maybe part of route de Napoleon to Combre Laval and beautiful town Pont-en-Royans and further. Can take it north to south or v/s depending on where you're going to rent. No need a month for it, but everything depends on your time availability.
 
Hey HPPants, thank you for taking your time to post this report and all the pics. Awesome!
You mentioned somewhere in the report that you were not too enamored with the Africa Twin. How so? Pros and cons from a real world "test drive"?

(Scale of 1-10)

Ergonomics: 7 The AT is very comfortable with a virtually neutral riding position (hands, arse, and feet are evenly distributed). The stock seat was surprisingly comfortable, despite its narrowing near the tank, presumably for easier standing up off road. The foot pegs are fairly wide and comfortable. Wind protection aside from the windscreen (which is really a personal thing) was very good - that little half-fairing is remarkable. I had no buffeting what so ever. The big wide handlebars do a good job of countering the 21" front wheel.

Motor: 5 For a liter bike, the big twin was a little underwhelming. Engine braking was not good at all, something I really want when mountain riding. Power was "OK" at best. She doesn't wake up until about 5,500 rpm, peak power is reportedly at 7,500 rpm (felt about right), and the redline is 8,000 rpm Not much power band to work with.

Transmission: 10 Honda has a notorious reputation for sikly smooth transmissions, and the AT is no exception. Toward the end, with at least 4,500 miles on the engine oil (it was not fresh when we left), shifts were still very good.]

Suspension: 7 The long travel suspension soaked up everything I threw at it. On the longer days, it was definitely welcome. But when you want to push the bike a little in the twisties, the front suspension is woefully underspring (typical). Since I was fairly well loaded, I had the shock cranked almost all the way and surprisingly, when pushed, it didn't "pogo" much at all. But the front springs are not performance oriented, certainly for a 200 pound rider with loaded bags. And the dampening for the front end was very slow, especially for a supposed "ADV bike".

Brakes: 3 I'm a front braker. My last FJR got sold with 93,000 miles on it with the original rear brake pads. With the AT, the front by itself can't cut it for all but the easiest of braking. A lack of engine braking doesn't help. I had to adjust my riding style mostly over the brakes for the bike. I didn't have confidence in pushing them. The feel was strong - no air in the system. Just.... not enough grip when pushed. I didn't experience any brake fade, even when ridden harder.

Controls: 2 The low beam headlight is useless, I ran high beams all month long. Honda put the horn where the turn signals exist on most every other bike, and visa versa. For the first 4 days, on 2 out of 5 turns, I blew the horn. It was a PITA. Furthermore, the TFT display is terrible, except for the speed display. In the glare, forget it. Even for a 2017, I think more information could have been provided, and what was given certainly could have been menu'd to be more user friendly, and have a display that was brighter, with some sort of shading for times when the sun is shining more directly on the gage. Not a fan of the guages.

Fit and Finish: 9 Again, Honda is known (IMO) to be just a smidge above it's Japanese competition with respect to fit and finish. I had to remove some plastic to run the GPS wire - that stuff is designed VERY well.

Intangibles: 4 I've owned about 20 motorcycles in my life, and I've ridden perhaps 40 more. Within a short time, you know if you are "feeling it" with any given bike. You adjust your muscele memory to fit the nuances of the bike, and then soon thereafter, you are either dancing with her, or not. I never got to that point with the AT, and I had MORE than enough time. I think the majority of my issue here is that fact that I don't really buy into the concept of an "Adventure Motorcycle". My Dual Sport is a Suzuki DR650. I've ridden it all over the country (and Canada). Believe me - that 360 pound Bush Pig is and will be the HEAVIEST Dual Sport I will ever own. I cannot imagine riding the AT on anything unpaved except what I would ride my FJR1300 on. Picking up that bike on the trail would indeed be a sight. And so all of its design that lends itself to off-roading is for naught, in my opinion. And in turn for that design, it gives up a LOT of highway manners. So - at the end of the day, what you are buying is a compromise, but what you get is the WORST of both worlds. One could argue that my FJR1300 is in the same boat: it is not a sport bike and it is not a touring bike. But I think Yamaha did a MUCH better job of providing compromising design elements that will work in BOTH genres fairly well, within limits - certainly within my limits and risk tolerance.

So - there you have it. Everything you wanted to know and a whole lot you probably didn't.

Now - I don't want that to deter ONE IOTA from the experience of the Alps trip. I mentioned it before on this board - I didn't go to the Alps to ride on a rail. I went there to see the land, and I chose a motorcycle as the tool to do that. The AT was very capable for the job, and not ONCE did I say to myself "this bike is horrible and it's affecting my trip".

After I wear my current FJR (my 5th one, BTW) out, I don't know if there will be a 6th one. It may be time to go a bit lighter and more upright. If that happens, it will NOT be the Africa Twin.

That is all.
 
What made you to choose the AT? What were the other choices?
 
The other choices were a 2020-ish BMW GSA - too tall, and a couple of BMW F800 or 850 bikes - both of those had very small luggage. I'm partial to Japanese bikes anyway.

I don't want my previous post to give the wrong impression. The AT is very capable - and I enjoyed riding it. It was comfortable and the luggage space was ENORMOUS. It did what I needed it to do. And in true Honda fashion, it never missed a beat.

It doesn't have to be perfect. Close is close enough.
 
I really enjoyed your ride reports; the writing and the photos. Thank you very much, it was awesome! I am, at this point, unsure whether to thank you or curse you for starting an itch :wink: .
I can tell you from personal experience - Scratch that itch - you won't regret it! ;)
 
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At the risk of beating the dead horse, let me offer this additional tidbit:

The area we visited, as a measure of shear size, was very small:

Alps%202026%20total-X2.jpg


In this diagram:

A = approx 475 miles
B = approx 200 miles
C= approx 450 miles
D = approx 150 miles

We spent 29 days (leaving out 1/2 day to get to it, and 1/2 day to get from it) and rode 4500 miles, all basically within that very small parcel of land.

None of us would have had any quarms about sitting there and twisting that for 100, 200, or even 300 miles on any given day to get "from here to there". That's what happens often in North America. There are TONS of beautiful areas to ride, to see, to explore. But often they are spread out, and in many cases, the ride between these is not so glamorous.

But not in the Alps. Quite simply, there was no reason to "leave" wherever we were. And there was no reason to get in a hurry to be anywhere. For the entire month, the riding was good in ALL directions from wherever we were. And as Bryan describes, the weather in this region during this time was extremely good. Finding a place to sleep was pretty effortless (Full Dislaimer: Soon after the beginning, I stepped out of the "lodging" decision and just went where they told me to go. Too many cooks in the kitchen sort of thing). At a minutes/hours notice, there were places available wherever we were.

And so, for the vast majority of the month, we know we are in the middle of excellent riding, excellent sightseeing, excellent weather, and ample solutions to any logistics on the table. All we have to do is: ride places and eat things.

This is why I urge you (all of you) to stongly consider doing this trip. It is something that is indescribably good for riders, in so many ways.

Stay thirsty, my friends.....
 
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