The NT1100 Thread

Some of the mounts on the windshield brackets cause things to bounce around a lot. Some work better than others, guess it depends on the rigidity of your windshield brackets. You can center the GPS under the dash using a ball mount too. I a get so silly anal that the GPS and Dash have to be perfectly square to each other going down the road! Other than that how many displays does 1 NT need?
 
Not talking about your bike dduelin was referring to the NT in general. Think we posted at the same time and were saying the same thing.
 
Congratulations on the new NT! Very nice. I do like them but I’m not yet done with what I have yet, and I don’t have the room in the garage for a 4th bike. I do like them though and it seems many people do (for the riding I do, I’m older so I don’t push the bikes that hard anyway). Looking at that pic, I think I like the blue over the 2026 gray color.
The blues are significantly faster.
 
Adding a switched power distribution panel was very easy. Honda gives the NT owner a place under the utility tray large enough to locate the distribution panel. and I made a male connector for the relay trigger that plugged into the buss under the OEM fuses. The Centech is isolated/cushioned in a bed of closed cell foam that fit snugly under the utility tray (it holds the owners manual).

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@dduelin

Dave,

Can you provide anymore info on the connector you made that allowed you to connect to "switched" power for your relay.

Thanks
 
@dduelin

Dave,

Can you provide anymore info on the connector you made that allowed you to connect to "switched" power for your relay.

Thanks
Sorry Rich, I meant to reply earlier and forgot to get back to it. I’m getting power from the Corner/ACC slot in the fuse box. The fuse holders in the OEM fuse box use crimp fittings on the wires coming in from the underside. The cramp fittings lock into the plastic fuse box. I trimmed the relay’s trigger wire bare end a little thinner before twisting the remaining to a point and tinning it with solder. I inserted the tinned wire end down into the recess and forced it into place against the ACC terminal’s load side then zip tied it to the OEM incoming ACC wire for strain relieve. Key ON and the ACC terminal is energized along with the relay for the Centech distribution panel. The ACC fuse protects relay wire.
 
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Ok, NT1100 experts, I need help/guidance. I cannot get Apple CarPlay to connect. I have watched numerous NT1100 and Africa Twin videos on the set up. My phone is connected to the bike. My cardo unit is connected to the bike. When I plug the cable into the bike and phone and then go into the menu-connected services-apple CarPlay, I get a message that Car play is not connected, or something like that.

I have tried 2 different cables, both are certified data cables, one is brand new. I'm fairly certain it has to be me. Any tips are appreciated.
 
Ok, NT1100 experts, I need help/guidance. I cannot get Apple CarPlay to connect. I have watched numerous NT1100 and Africa Twin videos on the set up. My phone is connected to the bike. My cardo unit is connected to the bike. When I plug the cable into the bike and phone and then go into the menu-connected services-apple CarPlay, I get a message that Car play is not connected, or something like that.

I have tried 2 different cables, both are certified data cables, one is brand new. I'm fairly certain it has to be me. Any tips are appreciated.
I don't like running ACP but I did it with my Wing and for a while on the NT. I don't think you want your phone connected to the bike via BT, only wired. Hard to remember tho. Does your phone want to connect by itself to the motorcycle via BT? Also I did have to follow the sequence - start bike, plug in phone to bike, wait a minute or so then turn on BT headset.
 
The phone does connect automatically to the bike via BT. Here is the video I followed:

I'm going to go out and delete all the connections and try again.
 
Well, it was the "certified" cables. Apparently they were not, lol.
That happens a lot. Especially with cables from Amazon. Especially with MFi claims of Made For iPhone (and other Apple devices.) I always keep a known good cable that's used only for verifying connection between source and device.

Some cables are charging cables only. They deliberately lack the pins for data transfer. Not that it's common but there was once a worry that "free" charging stations and airport charging stations could be hacked to steal data from travelers' phones. I don't know how prevalent that was or if it was even a thing. But charge-only cables still are. So are adapters that convert charge/data cables to charge only (via missing pins).

I assume your two "certified" cables did data transfer for other devices? So a spare or two of compatible cables are in order.
 
I recently completed my first "long ride" on my 15-month-old, 14.000-mile NT 1100. My definition of a long ride has evolved since 2001, when I was riding over 30k miles a year.

I tend to avoid group rides these days, but I felt compelled to return to the Blue Ridge for the 25th installment after a 10-year absence. I was there in 2001 and wanted to see old friends and meet a few new ones. I won't get into the ride (it was fun) because this post is about the bike, but the ride covered 1400 miles in 5 days in all kinds of terrain and conditions. Over 600 of those miles were in the hills and hollers.

The NT 1100 is a fine all-around motorcycle. I'm 71, no clutch is a blessing. I was stuck in the I-40 gorge for 2 hours, crawling at stop-and-go, walking speeds when I did move. I can't imagine the torture of a lever in that mess. My left hand thanked me. Uncle Phil took us on some very challenging roads, lots of shifting, up, down, up again, hundreds of shifts in 5 miles. I watched the guys in front of me sometimes find themselves in the wrong gear, their bike lurching when they let go of the clutch as they approached the curve, and lagging when they came out in too high a gear. Look, when a guy's been leaning for 7 hours, he gets tired.

I came into Newport from the Skyway and adjusted the engine brake in the ride mode menu that night. The next day in the tight hills, I seldom had to brake with the pedal. I'd read the curve, back off the throttle, let the bike shift gears, engine slow the bike, set the suspension, then roll out.

I've ridden a Honda ST 11, 13, BMW RT, and FJR in these hills, all good bikes, but they don't lean or track lines like the 200 lb. lighter NT with its IMU-connected suspension. It always had me in the correct gear. I never had to think about it.

On the negative side, the NT is tall; I'm at my limit with my 30-inch inseam. Before coming to a stop, I have to note the slope, so I know which foot to put down first. Parking with the stand going downhill is no dice, because I can't get the bike back even once mounted. On my tiptoes, I don't have the leverage to push it back to center and kick the stand up. I come into a parking lot, scan the area, and sometimes have to walk extra to the door. I can do this because I have 50+ years of experience, but if you're short like me, and have little riding experience, and want DCT, I suggest the NT 750.

On the highway, the NT is comfortable for all-day riding. I covered 400 miles home in about 8 hours, including a nonstop, 240-mile run from Newport to Rising Fawn, Ga, for gas. Speaking of which, the NT delivered 48 mpg on the 5-day ride. The NT aerodynamics, combined with the Shoei, give me a quiet experience. The only mod on my bike is an Air Hawk air cushion on the seat.

The chain needed no adjustment on the way out or on the return, but I did lube it a few days later.

This is a lot of bike for 13,000 dollars.
Nice ride report! Sorry to drop this here, but it seemed like a good idea.
 
Having had my NT now for about a year and a half, I only have just shy of 5k miles on mine. Not near as much as some of you. Family issues, plus three other bikes and my Miata keep my NT miles low. How ever the reason for this post is that because my knees have been acting up lately I went looking for some peg lowering brackets for the NT1100. This is what I found on Amazon. brackets Just installed them last night so have not had a chance to test ride them.
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I guess the only downside of lower pegs is the potential to scrape them more easily in the turns. By me, it’s really not that much of an issue since most of my roads are sea level, but up in the mountains, I guess there’s a greater likelihood of scraping. Lowered pegs for me are more or less a necessity. As we get older, you need a little bit more extension at the knees. I have them on both ST’s and even though the Silverwing doesn’t have pegs (large floorboards), you can extend your legs quite far out in front of you so it’s just shy of being in a recliner and you can easily adjust your leg position.
 
Do they also move the pegs outward? I have a set of lowering brackets for my 1100 but am not using them due to that outward positioning.
 
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