HaloCam M1 Motorcycle Dash Camera

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I have been using a Sena 10C Bluetooth camera for years now. I've loved it, but it is on its last legs. The battery has no life left and I think there's an internal memory error. I've been waiting for Sena to release the updated version, the Sena 10C Evo. Sena is about two years late on the Evo release, so I quit holding my breath on getting a replacement from Sena. When I bought the 10C, I only wanted a 20S and opted for the camera headset entirely on a whim. After buying it, I've been very happy with the camera. While I use it on trips, ninety percent of the time, I am using this helmet camera as a "dash" camera. My thinking is that if I am run off the road in a hit-and-run, my wife can tell the cops to check the camera for who the other party is. So I was looking for a trouble-free solution where I could get video from the front of my motorcycle as well as the rear. I also wanted something that would be powered by the motorcycle and not have a limitation of two hours as so many "action" cameras have before the battery runs out. Lastly, I wanted something discreet so I wouldn't have to worry about it being stolen. After doing a lot of research, I decided on the HaloCam M1. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D371DRF Cost was only $179.89. I highly recommend it.

What attracted me to the HaloCam M1 was a couple things. First, it has 1080p cameras on the front and rear. Many of the older or less expensive cameras are only 720p. I don't know much about the cameras, but I do know that Sony is a good name brand, and they are using Sony cameras in the M1. That's a plus. The other big plus in my mind, was the wi-fi capability. Trying to aim your cameras without being able to see what you're doing in real time is a pain. The HaloCam M1 comes with a nice app for a smartphone that allows you to see what the cameras see in real time. You can also download your videos without touching the DVR unit, and even make changes to the settings from the app. It's slick.

I was impressed with the HaloCam M1 from even the time I opened the box. The outside isn't glitzy. It actually has a touch of class to it, IMHO.




When you open the box, you'll see the DVR unit along with the two cameras and the manual switch neatly arranged. To me, everything looked professional, not cheap. This was promising.




Lift that packaging up and you'll see the cords neatly tucked away underneath. They use a short cord attached to each item like the cameras with a longer section to run from that camera to the DVR unit. Everything is color coded. You can't mess this up in the installation. Even the color coded plugs have only one way to plug them in. You can't mess it up. And they include heat shrink tubing that you can use to guarantee the connections are waterproof. They have thought of everything.



Installation is straight-forward. Mount the front and rear cameras. Mount the GPS device they include. And mount the manual switch. Then find places on your motorcycle to hide the wires and plug them into the DVR. The last thing is to find a good power supply.

The front camera is mounted on the black "lip" under the headlight. I doubt you can see it.



The rear camera is a little more visible...but I doubt you'd notice it without it being pointed out.



You'll want a power connection that turns off when the ignition is turned off. Otherwise, the camera will continue to record and you'll run your battery down eventually. I connected mine to the tail light circuit. I have a BMW, and there's a lot of concern about the CANBUS system having errors when you do this. I had no problems with mine. They also include a USB power connector that you can use to power the camera. Again, very well thought out.

One note. The DVR does not have any built in memory storage. You'll need to supply your own SD memory card. Use the highest speed memory card you can buy for this, since you're recording from two cameras simultaneiously with sound. I used a Class 10, U1 card and the images were pixelated. With a Class 10, U3 card, all seems fine.

What is it like in use? I've attached three screen captures. The rear camera shows a white vehicle merging behind me on the freeway. If you look closely, you can see another car to the side of it.



The next picture shows the blue car rapidly gaining speed. Although there is a large open space to merge into, it is clear he is not merging there.



The last picture shows the blue car cutting in front of me. BTW, the only reason he had that much space to merge into, was that I wasn't going to "fight" for my space and I backed off. Right after he moved in front of me, he cut over two more lanes in heavy traffic. If there had been an accident, the video shows a seamless capture of his actions from the rear camera to the front camera.



I haven't tested this yet :) , but if there had been an accident, the camera has a vibration sensor that locks the video so it isn't overwritten.

This is not an "action" camera, yet one of the sales people at Cycle Gear mentioned that the video I showed her was as good or better than her GoPro. I don't know if I'd go that far. But it is good.

As a "dash" camera though, I'd rate it as exceptional. The quality of everything is excellent, and the price is great.


I have only one nit-pick... When you mount the cameras in their mounts, they are still a little lose when the screw is tightened all the way. The "fix"...just use another washer on the inside of the two arms of the mount that holds the camera and it'll tighten just fine. That is really minor. You'll see what I mean when you mount yours.

Lastly, I have to make a comment about the HaloCam customer service. It is exceptional. I notice that of the previous reviews, one person had issues with his camera. I did too initially. I contacted them and they were outstanding in resolving my issue. I don't know when I've had better customer service. They definitely stand by their product.

Chris
 
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Thank you for the timely review!
I've been awaiting the release of the Innov K2 series (anticipating a better product than the K1), but not really reassured they'll improve. This looks like an excellent choice I'd missed.
 
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Daboo
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The INNOVV K2 was the other camera on my short list. If this camera didn't work out, I was going to buy the INNOVV K2. At about half the cost, the HaloCam M1 is a steal.

I plan to put some tape over the SD memory card opening, and the speaker on the DVR to make it more water resistant. Where I have the DVR under my seat, is exposed to the elements indirectly. I put mine in a plastic bag also. Partly for the waterproofing, and also just to protect the outside of the DVR.

Chris
 

ibike2havefun

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I've been awaiting the release of the Innov K2 series (anticipating a better product than the K1)
Me too, though based on the poor reliability of the K1 I've decided to let others go first and collect the data, before I pony up several hundred (more) dollars. I've not really seen much in INNOVV's propaganda to suggest that they made improving the reliability one of their priorities.

If you go that route, I'll be very interested in the review. In the meantime, thanks to Daboo for the review of the alternative. The description and priorities exactly match the motivations I had for installing the K1, two years ago. And at a fraction of the price I'm likely to get one and replace the INNOVV, which I've all but abandoned at this point because of its shortcomings.

Question: once the media card is filled, does it have an automatic overwrite feature so it continually loops? And, can you manually save video segments on demand? Finally, how long are the segments, and what's the "dead" interval, if any, between when one ends and the next begins?
 
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ST Gui

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This looks to be a good bit of kit. One thing that I'm looking for though is 1080p/60fps. This unit is 30fps. That give better economy of storage but I'd rather have the speed.

No internal storage is a plus for me. Often damaged internal storage means a card will no longer work as well.

If you could post that video it would be much appreciated. My major metric is the ability to read a license plate under most if not all reasonable circumstances both in video and stills. None of my computers come with the Enhance button found on CSI kit.
 

SupraSabre

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I think the big issue with the K1 are it's connections. When I changed my set up a bit, it did work better, but still had plenty of issues!

This look interesting. Hope it works out!
 
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Me too, though based on the poor reliability of the K1 I've decided to let others go first and collect the data, before I pony up several hundred (more) dollars...
You and I both:)
My glory days of "bleeding edge" collecting are far gone. The last foray into that was with Blackvue units for my car(s). They work great, when they work (internal lithium cells that pillow up each year due to the intense processor heat and imperfect venting, which also causes data corruption and video artifacts [cannot run it in +30c weather]. Blackvue just acknowledged the issue, told people to run at 30FPS with less resolution, and all be well. Buy our next unit; it doesn't do that.). Yes, I can cut open the casing and install a real heak sink, hang a fan off it as well, should I be so bold.

Pass.

Having said that, once a few "professional" reviews roll in (and I agree; renderings on a bare bones website that hasn't updated copyright dates from 2017 isn't inspiring, nor was the customer service aspect) I may take the plunge, and then it's review time!
 

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I think the big issue with the K1 are it's connections. When I changed my set up a bit, it did work better, but still had plenty of issues!

This look interesting. Hope it works out!
Mine gets locked into a loop where it repeats "Recording STOPPED. Recording STOPPED." every few seconds until I pull the battery from the recorder. Does not feel like either a connection or media error to me.

I have noticed that my recorder is quite warm, in every instance where this has happened on my install.
 

SupraSabre

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Mine gets locked into a loop where it repeats "Recording STOPPED. Recording STOPPED." every few seconds until I pull the battery from the recorder. Does not feel like either a connection or media error to me.

I have noticed that my recorder is quite warm, in every instance where this has happened on my install.
Oh, I have had that more times than I would like to think about too. But their using the small USB connectors seem to cause it to loose connections to the cameras and the power, which I suspect to cause that... I could be wrong, but those connections are very suspect to me!
 
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My major metric is the ability to read a license plate under most if not all reasonable circumstances both in video and stills.
Looks great so far, but I agree with ST Gui. It's only worth it if you can read the license plates!

How does it perform in low light and at night?
 
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Sorry for being so long in replying. I had a trip down the Washington, Oregon and California coast to make. A side trip to Iceland. And then a trip back home through Zion and Lassen Volcanic National Park. For some reason, the review of the INNOVV K1 popped up this afternoon as an unread post...which referred to this thread.

Here's a video of the front camera taken in daylight. I'd rather show you a ride in the country, but you wanted to see the clarity of license plates. So you get to see me move through traffic. It's not nearly as much fun.


Here's another coming home the other night. The headlights reflect off the license plate as you'd expect. It all depends on if the cars are directly in front of you and how far in front.


In looking back on the INNOVV K1 review, I got some of those same issues after coming back from the trip. Through the trip and in some pretty hot temps, the camera worked great. I have no idea why it started occasionally acting up when I got home...not as badly as you experienced though. Just occasionally. I mentioned it to the HaloCam customer service rep and he sent me out a replacement unit. It seems to be working fine now for the past month. They also changed the connections to a more secure screw type connection. And they've added a rubberized sleeve to fit the DVR into and keep water and dust off of it.

One of the things I found is the SD card you use is extremely important. I first tried using the Samsung EVO card that Amazon tries to sell you as a bundle with the camera. The data transfer rate is only half of what it needs to be. That seemed to be the prime cause for the corrupted video I found. I returned it and bought a SanDisk Extreme Pro and it works great. Tests show it consistently transfers data at the U3 data rate.

Just to be clear...I have no financial interest in this company. I just like their product.

Chris
 
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ST Gui

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Daboo said:
Here's a video of the front camera taken in daylight... So you get to see me move through traffic.
Move through traffic... :rofl1:

Daboo said:
You won't be able to read the license plate. The headlights reflect off the license plate as you'd expect.
The ST1300 will kill the headlights when the starter switch is pressed. It probably kills the position lights too— I've never looked. What if in the second video the starter button was pressed and headlights killed. It would be interesting to see if the plate could be captured.

Feel free to post some video of your road trip! And do you have a link to their website? All I can find are sites with affiliate links to Amazon.
 
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I replaced the videos with some that I hope are better for what you're looking for. Sorry. I guess the first original video was actually better. "Moving" through traffic didn't happen. That's typical.
The new second video shows a car to the side and one in front of you. If you're looking for forensic evidence, they show enough.

I didn't keep videos of my trips this summer. I took pics instead. Again, sorry.

A little history might help in understanding where I've come from on this and where I'm at now. I found my Sena 10C a couple years ago on sale. That's unheard of, if you watch the prices. It was like $10 more than the price for the then current top of the line Sena 20S. I didn't care about a camera, but I figured what the heck. If I can get the camera for that price, I'll go for it.

I started taking videos on some of my trips. I quickly found they take enormous amounts of online storage space and take a lot of time to edit. I quickly got to the point where I was going to be paying monthly storage, so I reevaluated my "need" to publish videos. :) I also found that a lot of people were using their Sena 10C BT cameras for a "dash" camera. It made a lot of sense to me. But I found a limitation that is common among "action" cameras. They only have about a 2 hour battery life. Play the FM radio in the Sena 10C at the same time and the battery life was gone in about 20 minutes. The Sena 10C is pretty unique in its ability to be charged while in use. I ran a USB cord to it and charged it from a battery pack. That worked great till the USB socket in the Sena 10C became loose. It's just not made for that kind of use. So I started looking for the promised updated Sena 10C EVO and Pro. Two years later, the EVO still hasn't been released. I think the Pro might actually come out this fall.

So I was looking at the INNOVV K1 and other "dash" cameras. I realized that I'd have to change my video habits though. With the Sena 10C, I could simply turn my head to capture something that caught my eye on a trip without stopping. With a dash camera, the view was always going to be to the front (or rear). On the trip, it basically forced me to stop to take the pictures instead of being lazy and riding on by. I liked that better and got better pictures.

The Sena 10C Pro is being released soon, like in a couple weeks. I would highly recommend it (along with an extended warranty), if an action camera fits your needs better. But Sena has weened me from "needing" an action camera. I like never having to worry about turning on my camera. It just does. I can turn off the "Halocam M1" logo in the upper left corner, btw. I just haven't bothered. If I bought a Sena 10C Pro, I'd have the same battery life issues again. I like not being tethered to a separate battery to give it enough charge to last all day. And eventually, that USB socket is going to fail just like my current Sena 10C did; hence the extended warranty. And I found I got some really nice pictures by forcing myself to stop. And really, if all you get is 9 comments on a thread when you put up pictures like these...why pay money to store action camera footage online? Or pay hundreds to buy an action camera to capture photos from it while riding? https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/here-and-there-and-back-again.165513/ Only two people thought enough of this thread to comment on it. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/artist-point-july-2018.164903/

So I don't really "need" an action camera. What I need more is a dash camera, and the HaloCam M1 is working great. :)

Chris
 
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ibike2havefun

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One of the things I found is the SD card you use is extremely important.
The same is true for the INNOVV. They really emphasize the importance of using the fastest card available.

Examining the two cards I have I see that my 128 GB card (Samsung EVO) is just a U1, so it may be that it is a contributing factor. However, the 64GB Samsung Pro card is a U3 and it also leads to flaky behaviors. Maybe it's a Samsung issue? While SupraSabre is experimenting with power supplies mayhap I'll go find a nice big SanDisk U3 card and give it a final go before scrapping the K1.
 
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There's a memory speed test program called ATTO that will give you the write speed in different file sizes and let you see if your card really is U3. I found the Samsung EVO really wasn't. I'm going off of memory now, but I believe the requirement to be U3 is to write at 30 MB/second. The test that really told me the most was to copy a lot of files to the memory card using the Windows File Explorer. It'll open a small window that shows the progress. The graph at the bottom shows you the data transfer rate. On the Samsung EVO that was supposedly U3, it was below that for most of the time and even dropped to 16 MB/s many times. Only occasionally did it exceed 30 MB/s. I think those times when it was down at 16 MB/s reflect when the video was corrupted. In contrast, the SanDisk Extreme Pro transferred all the files at about 32 or 33 MB/s.

Chris
 

ST Gui

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Given the amount of data that video can use (especially if you go for 4K@60Hz) a good high speed card is needed for just about any DVR or dash cam.
 

SupraSabre

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There's a memory speed test program called ATTO that will give you the write speed in different file sizes and let you see if your card really is U3. I found the Samsung EVO really wasn't. I'm going off of memory now, but I believe the requirement to be U3 is to write at 30 MB/second. The test that really told me the most was to copy a lot of files to the memory card using the Windows File Explorer. It'll open a small window that shows the progress. The graph at the bottom shows you the data transfer rate. On the Samsung EVO that was supposedly U3, it was below that for most of the time and even dropped to 16 MB/s many times. Only occasionally did it exceed 30 MB/s. I think those times when it was down at 16 MB/s reflect when the video was corrupted. In contrast, the SanDisk Extreme Pro transferred all the files at about 32 or 33 MB/s.

Chris
That's some good info. I'll have to check the cards I have to see what they are rated at!:oops:
 
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I just thought I'd give a follow-up to the HaloCam M1. Short answer, it works flawlessly and the videos are like the ones above. Sharp and clear. Even some video I looked at around dusk, looked good.

Here's another review that you may like with some details on it.

The HaloCam Motorcycle Camera – M1 Dual Lens Dash Cam WiFi GPS
https://dashcamerasreviews.com/halocam-motorcycle-camera-m1/

At $180, it is a steal.

Chris
I got a Halo M1 for Christmas, but I haven't had time to install yet. I do have a question though. Does your BMW have LED lights? Even though the directions say to hook the trigger to the tail lights I have had people tell me not to since I have LED's on my Honda CTX1300. They claim it can blow my tail light assembly out? Does any one see a problem with that happening
 
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