Good to hear this. Mostly, guys post the problems on this website, not so much the good tidings. Your experience makes perfect sense... not every P bike is going to be a dog just like not every Honda mechanic working at a dealership is an idiot.
2016 ST1300P incoming... advice on new to me, 1st time owner
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aniwack
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The main things to check immediately are the brakes and clutch. The secondary master cylinder on the front left fork controls the braking to the rear for linked braking. No you can't bypass it. If it has failed the rear brake will be locked and won't turn. Easy exchange process till you get to the bleeding. Seven step process that must be followed to the T. The clutch is hydraulically actuated. What may feel like bad plates more than likely is low pressure and the system not wanting to shift. The normal life is 5 years. The throttle bodies are vacuum actuated. Those lines are under the tank then under the air box and crack from the heat causing poor fuel performance. The oil filter is a Mobil 1-110A. Because these are aluminum engines, the blocks run hot. Don't be afraid to use thicker oil. Avoid the synthetic trap. I personally have 20-ish bikes running 15W-40 "Diesel Oil". $13/gal at Walmart and the bikes are happy go-getters. Get your brake pads from RonAyers.com or your local dealer. Avoid the aftermarket fakes. Spark plugs are CR7EH9 or CR9EH9. Avoid the CR8 plugs they perform very poorly. The coolant can only be checked with the Tupperware removed. The fill bottle is on the left side rear behind the motor.
That's pretty much the major stuff. If the forks are blown that takes about 4 hours to service if you're comfortable holding a wrench. There is a ton of help here especially from Igofar, Andrew, SMSW, Mellow, and everyone else that will jump in with help.
That's pretty much the major stuff. If the forks are blown that takes about 4 hours to service if you're comfortable holding a wrench. There is a ton of help here especially from Igofar, Andrew, SMSW, Mellow, and everyone else that will jump in with help.
@aniwack that doesnt sound even remotely terrible. Thank you very much for getting down to the specifics, that is very helpful information, appreciate that, I will do all of those things.
likely use Valvoline motorcycle 4s dino 10/40 in the crankcase, will use whatever honda lube or fancy oil for final drive, brakes, clutch, anything particular for those systems? In the past I have used water wetter and DI water for coolant, doesnt matter to me if you have an opinion on any of these products let me know. Not sure if Honda has any proprietary or specialized fluids... they usually keep it pretty simple...
I dont have any expectations, but I will def be asking for the records.... you can see in the sight window the brake fluid is clean in the front reservoir the clutch fluid however, is def on the outs....
likely use Valvoline motorcycle 4s dino 10/40 in the crankcase, will use whatever honda lube or fancy oil for final drive, brakes, clutch, anything particular for those systems? In the past I have used water wetter and DI water for coolant, doesnt matter to me if you have an opinion on any of these products let me know. Not sure if Honda has any proprietary or specialized fluids... they usually keep it pretty simple...
I dont have any expectations, but I will def be asking for the records.... you can see in the sight window the brake fluid is clean in the front reservoir the clutch fluid however, is def on the outs....
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Final drive is SAE 80 GL-5 hypoid gear oil. I recommend synthetic mostly because of its superior cleaning properties and cold weather ability to flow. 75W90 is often easier to find in synthetic and is perfectly fine.
Clutch and brake uses DOT 4 brake fluid of your choice.
Coolant is Honda type 2. You can get it from a Honda automobile dealer much cheaper than a Honda motorcycle dealer. Any silicate free coolant will work, preferably with distilled/demineralized water.
@Andrew Shadow forgot moly paste for the rear wheel splines. In this case, Honda's newer recommendation does not hold up (their branded moly 77) and consensus here is Loctite 8012 is a good replacement for the original Honda paste. There are other brands with 60%+ moly but the loctite is more widely available and cheaper. Their 8 oz bottle will last a lifetime.
You think with the lower miles those splines are in need of attention? I think its better than 50/50 its going to need a tire, guessing it may be old, so 100% if I have to pull the wheel, or if you guys think it is a critical service point??? I have some liqui moly goo and some lucas red grease I previously used for the output shaft splines on the BMW's
On the final drive, does it matter if it has the friction modifier? For some reason I think I was directed to use a product without it on the BMW???
I have some OAT coolant, its "Ford" specific, any objection to that? The NGK's 9's coming, M1-110A is at walmart, think the rest of the fluids I can get at Walmart
Question, I think I am seeing that production of the civilian bike ended in 2012 and when I do parts searches for a 2016 I dont get accurate results?? I cant land on an air cleaner... Are the PA's the same as the 12 model civilian? And only PA's were produced 13-16?
Thanks again for all the help
On the final drive, does it matter if it has the friction modifier? For some reason I think I was directed to use a product without it on the BMW???
I have some OAT coolant, its "Ford" specific, any objection to that? The NGK's 9's coming, M1-110A is at walmart, think the rest of the fluids I can get at Walmart
Question, I think I am seeing that production of the civilian bike ended in 2012 and when I do parts searches for a 2016 I dont get accurate results?? I cant land on an air cleaner... Are the PA's the same as the 12 model civilian? And only PA's were produced 13-16?
Thanks again for all the help
aniwack
Site Supporter
So does coca cola, but like Woody Allen's VW, it will probably be good to drink for thousands of years.
The rear wheel splines get moly paste every tire change, or roughly 10k miles. Pull the wheel, clean off the old paste and apply new. The driveshaft splines (from U-joint to final drive) get moly grease, not paste. I would think if a bike sat for more than a few years, it would be prudent to pull the wheel to see if the paste has dried out and the condition of the splines...this can be important especially if the PO (or police mechanic) used the wrong stuff.
You think with the lower miles those splines are in need of attention? I think its better than 50/50 its going to need a tire, guessing it may be old, so 100% if I have to pull the wheel, or if you guys think it is a critical service point??? I have some liqui moly goo and some lucas red grease I previously used for the output shaft splines on the BMW's
On the final drive, does it matter if it has the friction modifier? For some reason I think I was directed to use a product without it on the BMW???
I have some OAT coolant, its "Ford" specific, any objection to that? The NGK's 9's coming, M1-110A is at walmart, think the rest of the fluids I can get at Walmart
Question, I think I am seeing that production of the civilian bike ended in 2012 and when I do parts searches for a 2016 I dont get accurate results?? I cant land on an air cleaner... Are the PA's the same as the 12 model civilian? And only PA's were produced 13-16?
Thanks again for all the help
Regarding the air filter, yes - a 2012 civilian will work fine. Just a note, oem comes oiled, the aftermarket one I ordered did not (I swapped it for oem).
There are not whole lot of differences on your police ST vs the 2012 civilian:
Different sub frame for rear radio box (brackets instead of loops for the rear seats).
OEM handle bar risers, for the auxillary switch pod on the right bar.
Slightly wider handle bars.
Beefer front cowl "frame" for over/under mirror mounted light bars.
Different tip over bars (threaded plate for accessories on the PA).
ECU limited to 120mph (civilian was limited to 145).
Seat is bolted down instead of latched with a key.
Panniers are "unlockable" and you can remove the key. Civilian models, unless modified, retained the key when unlocked.
I am sure there are a few more things I forgot, but that is the majority. Everything for the civilian model *should* work on yours. If you want to change the seat you will need to make sure you can mount the police bracket to your desired seat, or convert the subframe so the civilian options will fit correctly.
Ryan
aniwack
Site Supporter
I've got subs in stock if you want to swap to a two seater.
Thanks for confirming the air filter, and the differences between the civvy and the PA. I was pretty sure that was the case, but of course want to make sure. Using 2012 model year can see all the parts now 
After stewing on this, I decided I am doing all Honda products. Next guy in line will appreciate this.
I do not think I will convert to two up....but I will say from the side, the rear cowl cover looks like a wonky box, and if one wanted to tour, you would be conceding a lot of space where a top box could be mounted. And impairs your ability to collect wayward girls from the side of the road.
After stewing on this, I decided I am doing all Honda products. Next guy in line will appreciate this.
I do not think I will convert to two up....but I will say from the side, the rear cowl cover looks like a wonky box, and if one wanted to tour, you would be conceding a lot of space where a top box could be mounted. And impairs your ability to collect wayward girls from the side of the road.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
aniwack
Site Supporter
@Andrew Shadow I was getting returns on the right parts amazon/google but it wouldnt list them as fitting a 2016.... or it would list it for a 2006 it was 'right' but it was ambiguous.
I found the fiche for the 16' that is what I am using now.
Found downloaded and looked through owners manual...
What tires do you guys like? And who do you use? I have been running the Roadsmarts on the BMW's
I found the fiche for the 16' that is what I am using now.
Found downloaded and looked through owners manual...
What tires do you guys like? And who do you use? I have been running the Roadsmarts on the BMW's
We used to have a lot of threads on this website (Forums>ST Forums>Technical>Tires, Wheels) with a lot of reviews of various tires but they are all gone now, victims of the big purge. Igofar liked the Pirelli Angel GT's and I tried two sets of them and liked them a lot. Unfortunately, Pirelli moved the manufacture of these to China from Germany and there was some fear that the quality would change. IDK. Other guys here liked the Michelin Pilots, but I had no experience with them.