2016 ST1300P incoming... advice on new to me, 1st time owner

All good choices. I landed on the Roadsmarts as the dealer I had a connection with carried them. I have put rain miles on them and think they are pretty solid in the wet. But I wouldnt complain about the Angels or Pilots. I will snoop around for a deal.

I did notice when I was researching SMC, granted the thread is a decade old, lots of pics no longer render. saw peeps rebabbing the cylinder rod v. replacing... it looks like to replace you need the whole left caliper?
 
SD1 said:
I did notice when I was researching SMC, granted the thread is a decade old, lots of pics no longer render. saw peeps rebabbing the cylinder rod v. replacing... it looks like to replace you need the whole left caliper
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It isn't worth rebuilding. There were maybe 2-3 successful rebuilds of at least a couple of dozen tries. Basically there are micro ports that get plugged/corroded, and you are not able to clean them out. Also, the rod itself will rust and sieze.

It is not the left front caliper, but it is bolted near it. Honda calls it a bracket - yours would be: 06454-MCS-R02.

Note for future reference that in 2008 there were changes to the brakes, and ECU. I believe all the brake components are different and some of the wiring in pre 2008 models.

Ryan
 
SD1 said:
@Andrew Shadow I was getting returns on the right parts amazon/google but it wouldnt list them as fitting a 2016.... or it would list it for a 2006 it was 'right' but it was ambiguous.

I found the fiche for the 16' that is what I am using now.

Found downloaded and looked through owners manual...

What tires do you guys like? And who do you use? I have been running the Roadsmarts on the BMW's
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I would never search for or trust any parts listing on sites like those. Once you have an actual P/N there is nothing wrong with buying from those sites but don't trust their compatability listings as they are incorrect much to often. Stick with the Honda parts fiche to find your part numbers.

Tires are a personal choice based on riding style, conditions, preferences, etc., for any recommendation to be anything but a generalization to your specific needs/wants. The only tire that has been scorned by several people on this forum is the Metzler Z8 rear tire. Several people have reported strange vibrations that appeared immediately after fitting one. The front did not seem to get complaints.
 
Ryan_B said:
Regarding the air filter, yes - a 2012 civilian will work fine. Just a note, oem comes oiled, the aftermarket one I ordered did not (I swapped it for oem).
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OEM is oiled? I haven't noticed that seeing two factory filters or seen any mention of it here. The only oiled filter I've seen mentioned here is the K&N which is a polarizing topic.
 
@Ryan_B thanks I located the correct part. This might be easier if I were looking at the bike...

I have yet to see an oiled filter on a street bike, dirt bike yes, all day, street bike, never....
 
SD1 said:
@Ryan_B thanks I located the correct part. This might be easier if I were looking at the bike...

I have yet to see an oiled filter on a street bike, dirt bike yes, all day, street bike, never....
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One of my street bikes is a 1982 V45 VF 750cc Honda Sabre that came with an OEM oiled filter when I bought it in 1982.
It disintegrated really fast as the foam they used never accepted mineral oil and crumbled to pieces.
 
anyone know the size of the T-handle to pull the Tupperware? I am taking a battery when I go collect it and will want to put it in on the spot. Other than the T-handle, what do I need, Philips and or a 10mm for the battery terminals? Any other fasteners to swap the battery? I am not taking a full kit, just a couple of hand tools for the battery. Thanks
 
SD1 said:
@Ryan_B thanks I located the correct part. This might be easier if I were looking at the bike...

I have yet to see an oiled filter on a street bike, dirt bike yes, all day, street bike, never...
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I was surprised as well. It just looks like a paper filter with a mesh screen, but the oem filter from Honda definitely has a light oil on it.

The other filter I got was a "Hiflo" from Amazon. Dimensions were the same, looked about the same - probably would have worked fine, but was dry.

SD1 said:
anyone know the size of the T-handle to pull the Tupperware?
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A 5mm hex key will take most of the body off. Note which one came from where, they are a little different in a couple spots. It has been awhile since I had the single seat, but I believe there was a size larger or smaller to remove the rear cowl. I vaguely remember being annoyed they were all not the same size.

Ryan
 
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Get yourself a JIS screw driver and dump the phillips. ALL of the screws on the bike (well, maybe not the battery - but that probably also fits a 10mm socket) are Japanese Industrial Standard. The philips will cam out and ruin a tight screw.
 
5mm hex for the side cover screws. Pull the front of the cover out of the grommets and slide it forward so as not to break the retention tabs at the rear. 10mm for the battery retention strap, 10mm for the battery bolts.
No idea about removing the rear police box to get the seat off.
 
I found a decent YouTube (battery replacement) for a standard bike not the PA... I am guessing the rear cowl comes off with the two fasteners on either side and what is maybe 10-12mm bolts on the rear? I also understand the seat is bolted and not on a quick release? So I am going to take an array of tools after all, no biggie. Assume the pannier has to come off as well? Is it on a quick release, same as civilian set up?
 
ST1100Y said:
Seat release is underneath the LHS pannier release buckle...
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The PA doesn't have a release. You will need to remove the cowl and then look just forward of the radio bracket you will see the rear seat bracket bolt. Remove that and then the seat slides out of the front bracket.

That front bracket can be adjusted to three different heights (pretty self explanatory once you have the seat off).

Don't quote me, but I want to say the cowl side fasteners are a 4mm 5mm hex key, the rear nuts are 12mm and the seat bolt is a 10mm.

I can go pull the parts out of my attic if you need to know for sure. - Edited - confirmed fastener sizes above.

12mm bolt on top holds the back of the cowl to the luggage rack:
PXL_20251231_013838486.MP.jpg

10mm bolt that holds the seat on:
PXL_20251231_013816010.MP.jpg

Ryan
 
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I got it picked it up today.... long day, was 210 miles away, left 530a and was out for 11.5hrs, most of which were in the truck. So its in the garage. It runs and rides, they jumped it and rode it out to me. it looks good, it does have some scratches on the crash bars, both sides, and both tip overs ,left gone, right has damage, but thats all I have seen. No damage to the plastics, bar ends, mirror ends, bags or pipes. Overall its very straight, good paint. Its dirty. Back tire is fat, front is not, did not check the dates. They pulled the lights, little hamfisted but no biggie. It will clean up well. I will add some pics and maybe a video tomorrow.
 
Thanks Ryan, no need, I have the tools and the bike is in the garage. I am too tired to even put the battery in, but I will be on it tomorrow. I was pretty sure it was not like the civilian bike. Cool it is adjustable, prolly opt for high, I like seat height, no idea why.

Thanks again for your help, i am stoked its in the house and should get a ride in Thursday...
 
Ryan_B said:
The PA doesn't have a release. You will need to remove the cowl and then look just forward of the radio bracket you will see the rear seat bracket bolt. Remove that and then the seat slides out of the front bracket.
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Ah! Good to know! (whilst I'll hardly come into the embarrassment of having to handle a P-spec 1300...)

On the 1100 they simply relocated lock and cable onto the forward section of the radio bracket to maintain full function... :unsure:
 
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