Now, pull it back out, figure out what the problem actually was, and then put it back in. Repeat, to confirm.
40 Amp Alternator disaster (ongoing....)
- Thread starter Davemac
- Start date
It’s around 11mm (bigger than the gap between casings)
The drive moves in to about 1mm before the O ring but refused to go in any further. The photo with the rule isn’t mine but see post 35 , problem solved by doing absolutely nothing different ??? Very strange
Ha ha this baseplaIt finally surrendered! Whew!
Now, pull it back out, figure out what the problem actually was, and then put it back in.
John
sorry John but the baseplate assembly is NEVER coming back out in my lifetime ha...ha... Quick question, does the alternator cover have to be trimmed and refitted before fitting the alternator, and do I refit the gear change pivot bolt with wire hose guide before or after fitting the alternator ? ThanksIt finally surrendered! Whew!
Now, pull it back out, figure out what the problem actually was, and then put it back in. Repeat, to confirm.
John
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Yes, the cover needs to be trimmed. You can try to slip the alternator between the frame crossmembers with the cover installed. The gear shift was never removed during any of the many alt upgrades I’ve been part of.
Last edited:
sirbike
Site Supporter
Congratulations!
Next.
Next.
Already have t
fitted the new 40 amp tonight, but boy oh boy it was a REALLY tight fit with the cover off, and yet again I had some bother engaging the alt with the drive splined . Got it to within 1/4” or less, then pulled it home evenly with new stainless A2 M8 cap screws washers and spring washers (threads moly greased for ease of removal next time....NOT ...ha...ha ) trimmed the cover and fitted to the alternator. Still some work to do on the re assembly
Has anyone used the (unused) vertical terminal on the 40 amp alternator as part of a charge warning light. A switched live is wired to one side of a small lamp, with the other side connected to the (unused) vertical terminal. Just thinking it would be an instant warning of a 'not charging' condition. I know there is a voltmeter but it's slightly less obvious if the voltage drop is g-r-a-d-u-a-l , second time this has happened to me on the home stretch of a run. Early warning of impending breakdown might be helpful in rerouting to avoid the more dangerous roads, as the last place I would want to be is parked up on the hard shoulder (siding) of a busy motorway/highway ! Is this a worthwhile addition ?
Dying of curiosity ) what was the problem? )
This may well remain one of life's deepest mysteries. There seems to be no explanation as to why after so many failed attempts, and I mean MANY, (using the tried and tested methods as others on this forum have done, with great success) the baseplate and drive assembly just point blank refused to follow the laws of physics....lol . Even that well established and highly documented " walk away " theory was, in my case, disproved several dozen times over. Even worse, having a background of mechanical engineering, only served to exacerbate the situation . In the end, I think pure statistics won, if you try something for long enough, with a ridiculously high sample rate, surely there must be a positive outcome. (Except where computers are concerned, and you do the same thing ten times and get ten different results...lol )......OR.....maybe it was just me.....
diferg
Dan & Ingrid
This article is clearly scientific proof that GREMLINS do exist!
FINALLY....got the ST back together after the l-o-n-g 40 amp upgrade, great to see the voltmeter showing 14 volts at startup. New oil filter and oil change done too. Just need to tig weld two very small pinholes on the left hand muffler (silencer) at the side stand rubber stopper bracket, then a good clean making about a hundred spiders homeless . Back on the road for the start of the warmer weather . Thanks to everyone who posted and encouraged me to get the job completed. You are all true stars
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Bravo!