alternator brush replacement in situ

[gcos]

Hi all,
New member on here, but have been lurking for years .Intro posted.
Does anyone know if the alternator brushes can be replaced with the alt still on the bike, without removing the swing arm. 1999 model. I am having occasional charging issues, and am trying to eliminate the simpler things first.
Many thanks for all info
G.

 

[Woonjas]

Actually, I don't think only removing the swingarm will be sufficient. I think you'll have to remove the tank as well to get proper access.
I remember having to take both out when I had to replace the VRR that's in the alternator.

At least you won't have to completely remove the alternator

 

[lawrence gal]

take tank out take back cover off alternator unscrew brushes replace test has anyone done this fix 2000 st honda 1100

 

[Bikeric]

Welcome to the forum gcos.

 

[kiltman]

How many kilometres on your bike, I ask because it’s been rare that brushes need to be replaced on the 40amp unit unless you are in Great Britain. I do think you need to take the swing arm off.
Taking the tank out is a simple procedure, remember to disconnect the float sender. That connector is under the left frame rail. On average from start to finish you should have the tank out in less the half an hour. You can then see if you can get at the screws holding the cover of the alternator.
First though I would check that all connections to the battery are clean and tight. Check the connector to the back of the alternator is clean and secure. Check the ground wire from the alternator to the engine is secure. Use a voltmeter to determine the voltage output with the engine running at the battery. Do you have a shop manual? Or Clymers?
I would also look at the main relay connector, make sure that isn’t melted.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Lawrence, I replied to your query in the other thread:

40 amp Alternator Install | ST1100-Alternator

Just completed a write-up on my own unassisted installation. The pdf file will not upload, so call 714-809-1threetwo4 or write tim@continentalsigns.com if you get stuck. I used the installation kit available on request from John OoSTerhuis (PM John) Edit 2: Please PM or email John, he is a...

www.st-owners.com

John

 

[Jim Van]

Good question by Kiltman. I replaced my brushes at about 60K miles when I removed the swing arm to grease the bearings and inspect the u-joint.

i did not have to remove the alternator, just the gas tank, swing arm, and alternator cover. Removing the gas tank doesn't take hardly any time and is easy to do.

They were hardly worn compared to the new set- I still have the old brushes. Anyone want them for $10 including shipping ?

 

[Obo]

Welcome to the forum gcos.

Gcos joined in 2015.

 

[Bikeric]

Gcos joined in 2015.

OOps! Apologies!

 

[kiltman]

my st has 250000 klm on clock do a lot of highway brisbane to sydney

Still young. Consider replacing the alternator given the price of aftermarket units. I would still check the output of the OEM before tackling the job

 

[lawrence gal]

How many kilometres on your bike, I ask because it’s been rare that brushes need to be replaced on the 40amp unit unless you are in Great Britain. I do think you need to take the swing arm off.
Taking the tank out is a simple procedure, remember to disconnect the float sender. That connector is under the left frame rail. On average from start to finish you should have the tank out in less the half an hour. You can then see if you can get at the screws holding the cover of the alternator.
First though I would check that all connections to the battery are clean and tight. Check the connector to the back of the alternator is clean and secure. Check the ground wire from the alternator to the engine is secure. Use a voltmeter to determine the voltage output with the engine running at the battery. Do you have a shop manual? Or Clymers?
I would also look at the main relay connector, make sure that isn’t melted.

if the relay is melted its only for the starter motor is this correct

 

[kiltman]

if the relay is melted its only for the starter motor is this correct

No it affects the charging system as well

 

[lawrence gal]

Hi yes it stoped Charing flickered on a few times then stoped I checked all the wires terminals looked at the plug left side fuse was good has a small burn mark on red wire connection but does not look to bad

 

[kiltman]

Hi yes it stoped Charing flickered on a few times then stoped I checked all the wires terminals looked at the plug left side fuse was good has a small burn mark on red wire connection but does not look to bad

That’s a problem! That small burn mark. You should replace the connector and splice in a new section of red wire, or do the red wire bypass. You can replace the red connector by using spade connectors. Make sure you have the orientation of the wires correct or you will blow the clutch diode and the neutral light will stay on. Take a picture of the connector so you can match the location of the wires when you reconnect with individual spade connectors.
Look at the red wire, if it’s burned or melted, cut it back till you have shiny copper, splice a new bit of wire if you need length.

 

[lawrence gal]

Still young. Consider replacing the alternator given the price of aftermarket units. I would still check the output of the OEM before tackling the job

hi what is an oem

 

[Larry Fine]

hi what is an oem

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