Partial crisis back. Test drove without plastic and all worked fine. After plastics replaced, right works fine but left is messed up.
Anyone install the STS self cancelling turn signal module?
- Thread starter SMSW
- Start date
Are the left and right turn signals on the same fuse or separate? Right works, left does not, post STS installation.
Terry
Terry
You must be a professional magician, or Stretch the super hero.
ST Gui
240Robert
Trussellcma said:
I think everyone with an ST loses the hazard lights if they wire the STS via the factory instructions.
There's a thread or two here with one member exchanging emails with the dev/vendor to get the wiring right. The dev was unaware of some eccentricity of the ST wiring. Once done all works as though it came from the factory. I don't know if the supplied instructions were since updated.
The biggest problem that I had with my install of the STS, Terry,,, was sorting out my turn signal switch. It was gummed up,, with dirt, bugs and various dried out lubes that had been sprayed in by various fixers over the years. It is critical that the switch function perfectly. Cat'
Sounds to me like you jostled something when you put the tupperware back on. If you have not fixed the hazard lights, go back and reread all 160 odd posts in this thread - it will give you a feel for some of the problems we have all had installing this gadget. While STS came through with customer service in the end, it took a bit of cajoling and more than a few emails from a number of us. Evidently they have not updated their instructions with the info they provided earlier in this thread.
As an update, after my problems with the first install, I have not installed the new one they sent me* - i'll wait til winter to tear apart the switch and make it like new. Fair warning Cat - I might have questions for you then.....
*It is evidently standard policy at STS to replace the module w/ a new one if you blow yours up on installation. Tho, this is not written anyplace. It is a good will gesture on their part.
As an update, after my problems with the first install, I have not installed the new one they sent me* - i'll wait til winter to tear apart the switch and make it like new. Fair warning Cat - I might have questions for you then.....
*It is evidently standard policy at STS to replace the module w/ a new one if you blow yours up on installation. Tho, this is not written anyplace. It is a good will gesture on their part.
This reminds me that after I had completed my wiring connections,,, I had some difficulty installing the left shroud. This was because I had moved/adjusted the wiring harness's around some,,, and, added the STS connectors. There is a "holder" of sorts,,, cast into the shroud,, and I had to take a paint stick and coax the wires into alignment with it. This can test the strength of the connectors and their crimps. You are getting pretty close,,, Cheers,, Cat'
As Catmandu mentioned, doubling up the wiring restores them. MaxPete (and others) have communications with STS; boils down to connect the Grey and the Pink to the STS Brown wire, and Grey and Pink to the Blue STS wire, if I recall correctly.
My module's working as designed. Had to modifiy the DIY harness to regain the hazards; wasn't enough room in the pins nor the housing for doubling up the gauge of wire I used.
Can attest to this; mine required enough force that after I cleaned it, I apparently don't know my own strength and fractured the stop on the second or third use afterwards. Fortunately, the cluster is still available, and only cost a few lost meals out, not an appendage...
I am really hoping to not remove all the plastic again. I taped all the wiring up pretty tight but I do not trust my own judgment when it comes to wiring. Still, I have to wonder about the switch. If feels fine and looks like things are working the same for both directions, except that right works and left doesn't. Oh and I still get the calibration flash every time I turn the ignition on, which leads me to think the unit is working properly. So which is the lesser of two evils, fiddling with the switch or removing the plastic? I am just glad I did the pre-plastic road test and confirmed all was working before replacing plastic.
Terry
Terry
BTW, if you have also installed the brake unit from STS, I know it is less complicated, but where do you recommend tapping into the brake wires on an ST1300?
Terry
Terry
I messaged STS and someone got back to me right away, which was nice. Since my bike does the calibration flash when I turn the ignition on he seems to agree that the switch is the problem. I guess I better watch some video on how to clean these things up. And I HOPE that fixes the problem.
Terry
Terry
The switch is VERY sensitive to the size of the neoprene(?) plug you insert to prevent latching. Part of my frustration came from taking the blessed switch apart several times to play with the foam and not realizing that what I really needed to do was take the whole thing apart like Cat did, and THEN fiddle with the size of the foam pad.
I now believe that Cat is correct - we all should be tearing the switch down, cleaning and lubing it, and putting it all together as part of the installation process. None of our bikes are new any more (well, even 2012's are 6 years old now). BTW, STS told me in an email that fine tuning the pads with a razor blade is part of the process.... My take on your difficulties is you have a dirty switch and may need to adjust the foam thickness.
I now believe that Cat is correct - we all should be tearing the switch down, cleaning and lubing it, and putting it all together as part of the installation process. None of our bikes are new any more (well, even 2012's are 6 years old now). BTW, STS told me in an email that fine tuning the pads with a razor blade is part of the process.... My take on your difficulties is you have a dirty switch and may need to adjust the foam thickness.
There is a great video on rebuilding your Honda turn signal switch,,, listed much earlier in this thread. It is required viewing for anyone who wants their STS to perform properly,,, cheers,, Cat'
found it,, in post #91
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=9&v=Ob4JWFQ6aTc
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I think you guys are exactly right about the switch. And that will be my next thing to tackle. Kudos to STS for the fact that the system runs a calibration test on every ingnition, which tells me that the wiring is okay. That alone saves a person from removing all the plastic unnecessarily.
My switch feels the same going right and left, but when I removed the foam for inspection I saw how sticky they had already gotten. I remember seeing that video and now will go back and rewatch it a few times and next week go to work on it. Thanks Cat for reposting that video, your pic of the wiring got me back on the right track when I started with the wrong wires, so thanks for that too. It is a big help.
Terry
My switch feels the same going right and left, but when I removed the foam for inspection I saw how sticky they had already gotten. I remember seeing that video and now will go back and rewatch it a few times and next week go to work on it. Thanks Cat for reposting that video, your pic of the wiring got me back on the right track when I started with the wrong wires, so thanks for that too. It is a big help.
Terry
Just as a further observation... When I put in the STS module, cleaned the switch, then broke the switch, then installed a new switch WITHOUT putting in the rubber blocking pieces, THEN actuated the switch, I'd have the STS work fine, for one cycle until I manually cancelled the turn by pushing it in.
If you were to manually cancel the turn signals in pre-STS fashion, then re-trigger a turn signal, does the outage still exist?
I had several strange tests with my STS install,,, after installing the module. After considerable head scratching,, I realized that if the module is installed correctly,,, both wiring and mounting,,, that any odd behavior is attributable to the switch. And each time I dug into the switch,,, I found a new issue,,, including some damage to the plastic parts inside. This damage was from the switch being forced over the years (PO's and maybe me) to try and make the oem switch setup work,,, when it really needed a rebuild. Just before I installed the STS,,, my signals were not working reliably. But it is a hardy little unit,,, so people get by for a long time before it absolutely fails.
If you have watched the video,,, you can see that rebuilding the switch is akin to clockwork. But plan and work carefully,, and you can do it, if you are handy with fine work. I did mine right in the bike,,, like by making a little towel covered table on top of the gas tank. Cleaning and proper lubing allows for a very smooth action of the switch. I did not use the little neoprene foam buttons in the end,, because I found they were too stiff for my liking. I made my own out of velcro hook-side strips (I think there is a picture in the thread). That does not mean that tuning them is not the best choice for most users. I think most users have done fine with them.
Al-hala,,, it is hard to know what you are experiencing with the cancellation. But as I recall you can watch the contact plates move with the switch opened up,, so that you can observe any stick-age. It is possible that even a new switch may be sticky due to the lube being over 5 years old,, and perhaps an excessive amount. Initially,,, when I pressed the oem cancellation, my own sliding contact block did not slip back to the neutral position. And this caused some erratic results. Any questions,,, I will try to answer as best I can. My unit is still working great,,, Cat'
If you have watched the video,,, you can see that rebuilding the switch is akin to clockwork. But plan and work carefully,, and you can do it, if you are handy with fine work. I did mine right in the bike,,, like by making a little towel covered table on top of the gas tank. Cleaning and proper lubing allows for a very smooth action of the switch. I did not use the little neoprene foam buttons in the end,, because I found they were too stiff for my liking. I made my own out of velcro hook-side strips (I think there is a picture in the thread). That does not mean that tuning them is not the best choice for most users. I think most users have done fine with them.
Al-hala,,, it is hard to know what you are experiencing with the cancellation. But as I recall you can watch the contact plates move with the switch opened up,, so that you can observe any stick-age. It is possible that even a new switch may be sticky due to the lube being over 5 years old,, and perhaps an excessive amount. Initially,,, when I pressed the oem cancellation, my own sliding contact block did not slip back to the neutral position. And this caused some erratic results. Any questions,,, I will try to answer as best I can. My unit is still working great,,, Cat'
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Thanks, Cat, for the offer of help, but I knew pretty quickly what the issue was; without the spacers installed, the switch latches as per normal use, and the module gets confused on switch state; the running light mode associated with the last triggered turn will remain off until the switch is de-latched. Sorry for any confusion; I was exploring a possibility that he was experiencing something akin to my own past issue. Module itself is working just fine, once that was resolved.
wjbertrand
Ventura Highway
Can the switch be permanently modified to prevent latching? That way one could avoid using the little pads but you would be committed to using the STS unless the switch was replaced with a new OEM one.
ST Gui
240Robert
wjbertrand said:
I bet it's as simple as filing or grinding some bit or removing the ball and spring or something very simple.
wjbertrand said:
Yeah that's the rub. Or you could just hold the switch for the duration. Or beg somebody for a timer circuit to wire in place of the STS. But then someone would be sure to chime in that you shouldn't have bothered with the STS in the first place. LOL
As the module is solid state I wonder what about the life expectancy. Over the years I've had electronic bits that die for unknown reasons and some that live longer than a Timex watch. Usually the difference comes down to over engineering and using quality parts.
Personally I think instead of neoprene or whatever the supplied blocks are made of that using some solid bits and careful trimming would be just as effective and probably more so. The factory switch has hard stops. I think neoprene is used because the squish is supposed to make really fine tuning unnecessary in covering different bikes. Sanding a plastic bit would be easier than trying to slice a fraction of soft rubber for a perfect fit.