jfheath
John Heath
Removed
Last edited:
Are manual tyre changers any good ?
- Thread starter jfheath
- Start date
Looks good. some wooden blocks help, about 3 inches long and 1 to 1.5 inches thick so you can help keep the tire in the center of the wheel both when taking off and putting. Not always needed but they help.
That kit with the optional tire tool for aluminum wheels should get you started. I'm not sure how touch the screw is but that's about the only weak part that I can see stripping if it's of low quality.
That kit with the optional tire tool for aluminum wheels should get you started. I'm not sure how touch the screw is but that's about the only weak part that I can see stripping if it's of low quality.
They need to be bolted to something. I bolt mine to a 2' x 8' piece of 3/4" plywood. I drag it over and park the car, one tire on the other end.
The cheapest version, from Harbor Freight (US) work okay, but the lever is no good for nice wheels. We all either buy a no-mar or a mojo lever.
The cheapest version, from Harbor Freight (US) work okay, but the lever is no good for nice wheels. We all either buy a no-mar or a mojo lever.
Last edited:
Yes to both, just handy to have, don't always need them.
I bolt to the garage floor via concrete bolts.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Mine was bolted to the floor and I ripped it up more than once on the BT020 bias rear. ;-) But well worth the money at any rate. I finally bought me a birthday present a few years ago. It cost less than a NoMar Pro and does car and lawn mower tires. I just grin every time I use it -
Attachments
John, that looks a lot like the HF changer. One problem I encountered is that when I put the wheel on the changer, I could not adjust the two pinned holders to center the wheel over the mandrel's hole. A second problem was the mandrel was too big for the ST's wheels. Minor problems to be sure, but a real pita to rectify. Buy a power changer like Uncle Phil has and you will be grinning all day long. (You might be broke, but happily so, and with a lighter wallet you will accelerate faster on your bike.)
I do mine sorta like the old fashioned way, but with a twist. I cut the old tire off with a reciprocating saw, using a small pair of bolt cutters to cut the bead. I tie wrap the new tire, as described in many posts here, and let it out in the sun to warm up. I immediately bring it in, and lube the wheel and tire, and it pops right on, with no tools needed. However, this is not true of all tires-the Michelin PR4's are more flexible than most.
I'd definitely consider getting one of those, in your situation. I have found it saves me a LOAD of time, as well as money! I got a simple Pit Posse balancer, and it works a treat! Add to all that, I can now get my front and rear tires done at separate times, and I get a lot more mileage out of my front tires- I used to get both done at the same time, to save time, and 2 extra tris down to the tire guy, but now I do them separately.
I'd definitely consider getting one of those, in your situation. I have found it saves me a LOAD of time, as well as money! I got a simple Pit Posse balancer, and it works a treat! Add to all that, I can now get my front and rear tires done at separate times, and I get a lot more mileage out of my front tires- I used to get both done at the same time, to save time, and 2 extra tris down to the tire guy, but now I do them separately.
Not to knock anybody for balancing the old fashioned way, it has definitely been proven to work, time and time again.
But in the interest of cost and time, learning something new and maybe possible long term advantages (like dynamic re-balance on the fly)... tire beads. I'm a fan of the CounterAct brand. Use them in both my bike and two different trailers. Next time I change my car tires, they will be getting put to use there too.
Not a fan of the Dyna Beads.
John.
I think the 19-24 is probably designed for the 20-25 diameters, to enable you to slip the wheel over and after all it's only 0.5 mm either side.
I would think the ones in ATS will be worn a lot more than that.
And just so you know you are responsible for a tyre change advert that keeps flashing up on everything I click on. Please don't ask for advice on underwear!
Upt'North.
I think the 19-24 is probably designed for the 20-25 diameters, to enable you to slip the wheel over and after all it's only 0.5 mm either side.
I would think the ones in ATS will be worn a lot more than that.
And just so you know you are responsible for a tyre change advert that keeps flashing up on everything I click on. Please don't ask for advice on underwear!
Upt'North.
Some one did exactly what you suggested - drilled new holes. My problem with that is then you are locked in to specific wheels.
When I posted my review of the HF changer here earlier this year, someone else posted pictures of the mods he made to his changer. He had made up a screw arrangement for each of the two 'pinned clamps' and thrown away the pins. These were welded to the bottom of the changer and are identical to the factory adjustable clamp. Someone else here had a friend turn new mandrels out of 1 1/4" steel bar for his HF changer to fit the front and rear wheels. I did the same (mine is not finished yet) - screw adjusters on each of the 3 arms and turned mandrels. To be honest, had I known how much additional work it was going to take to get this ''cheap" tire changer workable for me, I would have chomped down hard on the bullet and bought the blue one (No Mar). I do have to say, however, I did have a lot of fun using the machine shop* and increasing my skills doing this stuff. And I get a real kick out of welding stuff. If I'd had to do this for a living, I would probably hate it, but since I did not, now it is a whale of a lot of fun.
*I am extremely fortunate to have a fully equipped shop available to me for my own projects.
Yes, John. But how are you going to fit all our tyres at the first tech event at your abode?
Upt'North.
Upt'North.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
John - Having the ability to do your own tyres/tires is better than you will ever think. For instance, if you are going on a long trip, you don't mind replacing with fresh ones and hang on to the other ones, because to get the rest of the life out of them just costs the time to change them. If you get a nail, you can break it down and patch the inside and get the remaining life out of the tyre/tire. Most of the work is getting the wheels off the bike anyway. The toughest challenge is breaking the bead and getting the last 'inch' of the rear one on the rim. Fronts are pretty easy and only back ones with a really stiff sidewall are work. I bought my 'real deal' machine after using a manual for many, many changes. With my hands in the shape they are after multiple surgeries (recovering from one now), it makes it a lot easier for me (and my friends) at this stage of life.
Or maybe we have not learned to spell.
Iirc, SupraSabre has a couple of sets of wheels (well, I'm beginning to think Bob has a complete bike or two in spare parts) - for his 4 ST's and does what you say - simply swaps wheels. But now you have twice the number of tires to change, though you can do it when you want and not when the bike wants. In the end, a tire changer is more convenient, but unless you ride like Uncle Phil and change tires every 3 to 4 months I question if it is really cheaper (figuring my labor in there at a few cents per hour). The real payoff for me is knowing things are done right, even if it takes longer than a quick trip to a bike shop. Again, there is pleasure in doing some of this stuff since I did not HAVE to do it for a living for 40 years.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
My HF tire changer paid for itself in about 3 tire changes. When a shop wants to charge you full retail for the tires and then more $ for changing them, and you have drive some distance to get to the shop, it doesn't take long if you change a few tires. I can order them online at a discount and ship them to my doorstep and sometimes have them next day.
You don't have to ride like UP to justify one... my bike will sit for 3 months and then I'll do a 2k to 3k trip.. Since you don't want to be stuck paying lots of $$ on the road for new tires you typically want to start the trip on a new set. That means you may take a set of that still has 1500-2000 miles left on it.. having your own changer allows you to put those back on and run them for some shorter trips/RTEs/errands.. It helps you get the most out of your tire $'s .. Also, if you get a brand new tire and get a nail in it and not comfortable w/mushroom or gummy worms as a permanent solution, you can remove the tire and put a real patch in.
ST Gui
240Robert
jfheath said:
Or not cleaning the old gloop off thoroughly before applying new? Buildup of any kind can defeat the seal. But your gloop/no gloop of choice can bring peace of mind.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
John - I bought a gallon of tire 'snot' (rubber lube) to use in getting the tires on. It has lasted for years and makes seating the tire against the rim easier (you use very little - I apply it with a cheap paint brush). I don't use any 'sealant' other than that. You will need an air compressor of some sort that will have enough pressure to seat the tire bead. Also, a valve stem tool for removing the valve core. If the changer you are looking at has an 'overhead' arm, I just bungied a broom handle to it that drops down between the 'spokes' of the rim. The rim rotates until one of the spokes presses the broom handle against the base of the changer. I'd also invest in a couple of good tire irons and let the work begin!
No Mar sells some nice accessories that make the job easier if you use them a lot. Of course, you can make do without them. Their NoMar bar is nice but some prefer the Mojo Bar (as T_C said above), wood blocks are helpful holding the bead away from the rim and the NoMar yellow thing is also nice. I even used some deep throated C-clamps. Instead of Phil's broom handle, I started off using a 2x4 but it got in the way of the bar when levering the tire on. I then simply took some rope and tied one of the cast spokes to the nearest arm to prevent the lever from twisting the wheel in the holders.
I have had a no-mar manual changer for several years and used on multiple tire / tyre changes. Well worth the money, mine has well paid for itself.
But the BT020 bridgestones are very difficcult to mount to the rear rim with this changer type. But it is doable just not fun at all. Michelins pop right on though.
But the BT020 bridgestones are very difficcult to mount to the rear rim with this changer type. But it is doable just not fun at all. Michelins pop right on though.