Autocom Interface Issues (New Parts)

jfheilman

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I have the Super Pro Avi on my 2007 ST1300, installed in 2007 and it still works well. I have an Autocom Spa on my 2015 Goldwing. I use the same helmets and interfaces on both bikes. Since the gentlemen I was dealing with in the US (up in New England somewhere) closed shop, I have had to purchase spares (just in case something breaks) from the U.K. I have been dealing with Chainspeed.

Up until my last purchase, they were very good and the parts worked as needed. The last two purchases have not worked. I purchased a new microphone and a new headset loom.

A couple of weeks ago, I tried out the new microphone and found it did not work. No audio from the microphone at all.

Today I tested the new headset loom. Again, it failed to work.

Both these tests were done with the Super Pro Avi interface. (pictures of the devices are included for identification of part numbers.

My question what am I doing wrong? Should these systems work with my Super Pro Avi?

I did look on line again and found the headset loom identified by Part Number 2091 while the one I have is Part Number 2091A
 

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jfheath

John Heath
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The 2074 - yes that is the one I use with my Super Pro Avi. But its a universal one anyway, so it will work with your other unit.

I guess that the 2091A is a variation of the 2091. I've seen pictures of both, they both say the same thing.

Odd that both don't appear to work. Is there something wrong with the connection / cable from the SuperPro Avi ? Is anything working ? Those thin cables tend to get bunched up and tangled all over the place and after a few years, faults can be awkward to track down I have an old spare super pro avi at my desk which I power from a transformer to test my various bits - saves doing the juggle with the leads, glasses, helmet etc.
 
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jfheilman

jfheilman

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Odd that both don't appear to work. Is there something wrong with the connection / cable from the SuperPro Avi ? Is anything working ? Those thin cables tend to get bunched up and tangled all over the place and after a few years, faults can be awkward to track down I have an old spare super pro avi at my desk which I power from a transformer to test my various bits - saves doing the juggle with the leads, glasses, helmet etc.
Yes, everything works with my "normal" cables. What I was doing was wiring up an older helmet that had an older cable with connections for speakers. Since we use headphones......

So I took that one out and then installed the new one. I should have tested it first, but......

Anyway, it failed to work. I have a spare in my "spares" package for the road and I tested if before installing it and it worked fine. So then I took a look at the one that failed to work and found a broken wire. I repair that wire and tried it again and it still did not work.

Then I attempted to do a pin out for the cable so I could simply rewire the new one but I forgot there are some capacitors in the wiring so I cannot identify the cabling for the headset, speakers.

What I have so far, if you look at the seven pin connector with the pin opening at the bottom and reading the pins clockwise is:
Pin 1
Pin 2
Pin 3
Pin 4 - Ground
Pin 5 - Ground
Pin 6 - Mike
Pin 7

The noise sensor seems connected to both Pin 4 and Pin 5 so..... no joy.

The picture on the left shows the broken wire in the new headset loom. The picture on the right shows the older headset loom which was intermtittne and shows the capacitors after I have removed all the heat shrink tubing.
 

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jfheilman

jfheilman

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Yes, what I was looking for. May not provide all the information I need but, the pin out is very important starting place. Where the Caps are wired is also important, ect.

Just a question to verify. The image is from the "solder" side. So, when I look at it from the Pin side it will be the mirror image, correct?
 

ST1100Y

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Just a question to verify. The image is from the "solder" side. So, when I look at it from the Pin side it will be the mirror image, correct?
yup...
Only that the connectors of newer Autocom headsets (and cables) had been filled with some glue; obviously to ban the attempts of self repairs (as I'd done many times in the past...)
 
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jfheilman

jfheilman

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Well Have the seven pin DIN connectors and other stuff needed to make my own cable what I don't have is the schematic diagram of the wiring. The one harness I did take "apart" had a couple of capacitors on what I figure are the leads to the in the helmet speakers. I also have the "cable" that has the headset connector box that I used before I got the cables without the in the helmet speaker connections. I may just take it apart and see what is in there.

I shall endeavor to publish my results, discoveries here.
 

ST1100Y

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Noted the caps in your pictures, can't find a reliable wiring diagram to it though...
I'd guess some noise filtering...
They claim the 7-pin being superior to the 5-pin as each speaker has individual ground, hence no "bridged" amp, thus more output per channel...
 

V4 Rider

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Contact Autocom UK . Autocom UK or call +44 1487 840 960 they have always been very helpful and will confirm if correct part numbers etc and will supply parts.

Have you ruled out a fault between Autocom unit and end of headset lead as this may explain two " faulty" mics. Have had leads from unit fail on my ST from wear where they exit bike. Replacement leads are available, they fit onto a multipin connector inside unit.
 

V4 Rider

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The reason they changed from 5pin to 7 pin was the mic used in the 5 pin systems had inbuilt noise cancelling. Their supplier stopped making the mics and they had no alternative available so had to re engineer their entire product line to use a separate mic and add noise cancelling circuitry in the unit.
 
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jfheilman

jfheilman

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Ok... I finally got the thing sort of "sorted". Using the information from ST1100Y and others I have gotten the pinouts as needed. I have gotten it working in a "test" environment. I am not thrilled as to how the thing is "constructed" as it seems wires could easily wear and short. So, I will be looking at purchasing some 7 Pin preassembled DIN male connectors/cables. I will use these to build my own interface cables/harness for the helmet. The only issue is the tiny two pin connectors which I have yet to located. I apologize for the quality of the images. The connector diagram is hand drawn.

Note: In the 7 pin DIN male connector, (looking at the pin/male side and moving clockwise), Pins one and seven are not connected. Diagrams show them as speaker grounds but the "headset" ground is connected to the common ground used for everything else, which is Pin five.

And yes, I did not include the pin out for the microphone connector. I will correct that.

IMG_1133.JPGIMG_1134.JPGIMG_1136.JPG
 
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jfheilman

jfheilman

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I have found a source for the small two pin connectors, just need to verify they are the correct format for interfacing with the hardware. I will probably use the pins that are labeled as N/C above as "ground" for the noise sensor and the mic. It should make wiring simpler and cleaner. Just need to verify they are the same connection on the "box".
 

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jfheilman

jfheilman

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The ones I found were labeled as JST and are already crimped to 20 gauge wire (short runs). It will be a "trial and error" process. If I cannot trust the Autocom supplier to provide "correct" cabling, I have no other choice but to do my own. And even if the supplier is willing to take a bad item in return, the shipping costs are such that it is not worth the effort. I don't know what the future of Autocom is. I think I have enough spare parts (such is microphones and mic repair kits) and I have a spare super pro automatic box so...... I should be fixed for the next several years. The interface cable (extension from box to helmet) and the mic's get the most wear and tear just because of where they are and how they are used.

Currently you cannot get (well at least from Chainspeed) Headset Extension Lead that is stright. They only sell th coiled version which can work but, for me, is a little more cumbersome.

My only real issue in building my own "in ear speaker loom" is how will it will handle the elements (sun, rain, wind, cold, ect).

There is a plus side. The "in ear speaker loom" is wired strangely for inclusion in most helmets I have used. The connection for the mic runs forward on the loom which means it has to be folded back inside the helmet to attach to the mic. The noise sensor connection also runs forward and the noise sensor is usually wired/set in the front of th helmet which means it gets folded as well. I will correct that when I make the "in ear speaker loom".
 

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I feel you...
Just installed a 5-pin Starcom<>Autocom mix headset in my new Neotec II lid... at the end it involved breaking out the soldering iron :cool:
Might change the (larger) Starcom speakers back to the Autocom ones, as their (definitely optimized for human speech) lack a bit in bass...
Still can't find decent coiled leads... might end up using CB-radio microphone cables...
 
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jfheilman

jfheilman

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A thought occurred to me regarding making/fabricating the headset looms. I don't really have to purchase a bunch of pieces, I should be able to use pieces parts from the looms that have failed. After all the major cables (which are the parts I am most concerned about). Also, just for the record, if you look at the pictures of my new cables and compare them to the older cables, the construction of the older cables is much more "rational" and physically stronger. Just my opinion. Still a work in progress.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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You probably know this already.


Those connectors are available loose and also with length of wires already attached.

I noticed a very marked change in quality in the last mic assemblies that I bought earlier this year.

A quick search for 7 pin din extension cable reveals that they can still be obtained with straight leads. You'd need to check that they were screened for audio use.
 
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