Best oil to use

I'm wondering if I should put nitrogen in my tires.

Chris
You need to install a 2nd valve stem... opposite the current one so the heavier air can be evacuated as you replace w/nitrogen via the other valve stem.
 
You need to install a 2nd valve stem... opposite the current one so the heavier air can be evacuated as you replace w/nitrogen via the other valve stem.
I always wondered how they got the bad air out the tires before charging you for the "good air". I paid $100 for the good air in my last Civic purchase. It wasn't an optional thing.



I'm going to run out and find that second valve stem, be right back.
 
I always wondered how they got the bad air out the tires before charging you for the "good air". I paid $100 for the good air in my last Civic purchase. It wasn't an optional thing.



I'm going to run out and find that second valve stem, be right back.
put your vacuum pump in the tire before filling, just like an a/c system. :rofl1: :rofl1: Now here is the serious question. Under all driving conditions tires warm up and the tire pressure goes up. When manufactures make the pressure spec they surely (not name calling) take that into account. Pressures are set cold. Putting 400 miles in a day means the tire has more pressure then was put in cold. Is the tire meant to be driven with more pressure? So if nitrogen does not expand as much when warm so should the nitrogen tire be filled a bit more?. I'm getting popcorn now.
 
When a friend picked up his new car, there was an additional charge for nitrogen in the tires. So he asked the salesman...
- did you pump the regular air out before putting in the nitrogen? or
- did it come from the factory with flat tires?

The sales guy had the decency to be embarrassed.

As for the oil....anything that is compatible with an oil bath clutch will work. The same friend (as above) was a Honda dealer for quite some time. He said he never saw an oil related failure in a Honda that was not due to simply lack of oil.
 
Ok, I'll have a look. It appears my quite innocent question has cased raised eyes. Ill'not bother again.
Please do not be offended, this is a subject that has more opinions than there are belly buttons in the whole world. And it pops up like the heads in a prairie dog colony. For some reason every opinion is the right one and needs to be explained in great detail while insisting that everyone else's is wrong.
In any site that I have seen concerning engines there is more lubricant engineers that can get down to the molecular level better than anyone alive!
Also this is written as a foray into humor and a dose of sarcasm and is no way meant to belittle anyone or start a argument. If it is not amusing I am sorry, seemed funny at the time.
 
Ok, I'll have a look. It appears my quite innocent question has cased raised eyes. Ill'not bother again.
My apologies if I came off as rude. There are innumerable threads on this subject and the result is there is no one "best" oil. Riders experience different conditions all over the world. If I had to boil it all down to one Shell Rotella T6 tends to float to the top (yes, there is the debate of old versus new formula too...yet another search!).

I'm using the T6 now, but have also used Valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle 20W-50 oil extensively. It is JASO MA2 certified.

That took up too much carbon...we're all doomed now!
 
Welcome to the board. Please stick around and post some more. You'll find most here have a big bark but little bite.

And on the oil, I like mine as fresh as possible. Here I am getting it right from the spigot once.

:worthless:

Now that's an oil supply... :wave1:
 
My apologies if I came off as rude. There are innumerable threads on this subject and the result is there is no one "best" oil. Riders experience different conditions all over the world. If I had to boil it all down to one Shell Rotella T6 tends to float to the top (yes, there is the debate of old versus new formula too...yet another search!).

I'm using the T6 now, but have also used Valvoline 4-stroke motorcycle 20W-50 oil extensively. It is JASO MA2 certified.

That took up too much carbon...we're all doomed now!
Thank you for your reply, not rude, maybe a bit abrupt, but I fully understand why after looking at the huge amount of chatter about oil. I appreciate the apology you made with good grace. For context I had put some unbranded oil in as a bit of a stop gap when I got the bike, as I didn't know the history very well. After a couple of weeks I got some clutch issues and wondered if it was the result of rubbish oil. It turns out it had a tiny leak on the clutch slave cylinder obviously resulting in loss of fluid. The sight glass is obstructed by the heated grips switch so I only discovered it when I took all the accessories off. Also some oxidisation crud in the master cylinder. All cleaned up now and awaiting a slave cylinder rebuild kit.
Sorry for long reply and we certainly are doomed now. Ride safe.:ukflag1::thumb:
 
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