Bike won't start - Updated 17 Oct 18

I'm not sure I'd trust their fuel pump assessment. Did you ask them about the other things mentioned in this thread that relate to the fuel pump even being able to operate in the first place? Mine runs fine, just isn't getting the signal to turn on.
 
Gus1300 said:
Will update here when I've gotten to the throttle body and injector.
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Stop before you start tearing into the throttle body or injectors. Odd resistance on one will not cause the no start condition. While checking at the Round 14 pin connector with the key on is there 12+ volts present at the BL/W wires? Without power there the injectors will do nothing and it will throw the code 12.
 
Chuck,

Yes, I have good power on the Bl/W wire to the subharness connector. Good power on the Bl/W wire at the Fuel Cutoff relay and Mx test connector as well (both are common to the fuel injectors via the 14-pin connector.) According to the manual, each injector should throw 11.1 to 12.3 ohms. Only the #1 injector wire pair doesn't, so figured it was worth a look as to why but willing to take other suggestions. I don't have time to get into it until next week, so can check anything else you might think suspect as well.

What is the failure rate of a fuel injector? I've put SeaFoam in only a couple times after the bike has sat for long periods (weeks/months) and have run 87 octane without incident since purchase in 2007. Curious if anyone has had a verified injector failure and the suspected cause(s). Thanks!
 
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Gus1300 said:
Chuck,
What is the failure rate of a fuel injector? I've put SeaFoam in only a couple times after the bike has sat for long periods (weeks/months) and have run 87 octane without incident since purchase in 2007. Curious if anyone has had a verified injector failure and the suspected cause(s). Thanks!
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I don't have much experience with FI on Honda motorcycles but have serviced hundreds of Honda cars and have never seen an injector failure not that you couldn't have one. A single injector failure should not cause a "No Start" condition. While it's possible you may have an injector issue I would be looking for another cause of the No Start. I see from your earlier post you were able to energize the fuel pump relay and make the pump run. When you first turn on the key does the FI light come on for 3 seconds prior to flashing the failure codes? During that 3 seconds the ECM is initializing and the fuel pump relay should energize for that short period as well. Were you able to verify 12V at the ignition coils as well with the key on?
 
First turn of the key, FI light on solid for ~2-3", then flashing one long two short (12) code. No pump noise. Good 12V at both terminals of both coils with the key in run position (the Bl/W being common to the other Bl/W path so far verified) and the Y/Bu (1/3 coil on the left) and Bu/Y (2/4 coil on the right) paths from the ECU. As independent verification, the left coil is wired into my cruise control and the CC unit also shows power indications as designed (single light w/ headlight on dim, lighted switches w/ headlight on bright).

I believe I also tried cranking the engine over with the fuel pump jumped (and running) earlier in this process, to no avail (strong steady crank but no start). Not yet sure how that relates though, so may be a spoofer input! ;-)
 
Gus1300 said:
First turn of the key, FI light on solid for ~2-3", then flashing one long two short (12) code. No pump noise.
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It's possible you may not actually hear the pump. The pump acction can be berified witht test light curing the 3 second ECU initialization.
This may sound like a strange question but when cranking does the engine sound normal or cranking faster than usual? There have been a number of instances of ST1300s having been on a lengthy ride then parked for a week or two and no start due to a sudden temporary lack of compression. More info available depending on your answer.
 
Pretty sure I'm not hearing the pump; the seat is off and it's right there, as well as I can tell the difference when the relay is jumped and it runs vs when it is off. It doesn't seem to be turning over faster than normal and there seem to be exhaust 'pulses' when cranking. I could probably pull the plugs and do a compression check at some point but don't have the equipment to do that at the moment.
 
Gus1300 said:
I could probably pull the plugs and do a compression check at some point but don't have the equipment to do that at the moment.
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Have you tried using the procedure to reset the ECM and clear the codes?
Short of having compression data or more specific information about whether we are missing basic spark, fuel or compression or all of those the reset would be my only suggestion at this point. Since we are having difficulty isolating the issue I would be checking ground connections or something common like the hidden in the harness green and yellow buss connections. They show on the 1300P wiring diagrams near the ECM.
 
CruSTy said:
Have you tried using the procedure to reset the ECM and clear the codes?
Short of having compression data or more specific information about whether we are missing basic spark, fuel or compression or all of those the reset would be my only suggestion at this point. Since we are having difficulty isolating the issue I would be checking ground connections or something common like the hidden in the harness green and yellow buss connections. They show on the 1300P wiring diagrams near the ECM.
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I did reset the ECM once, cleared the 25 code before it threw the 12 code. I'll still take a look at the ground and power connectors once I get more time to look at it.
 
Have you followed the 3 wires from the fuel pump back to the connector on the left side with the tank up? Disconnect, clean and reconnect. Just did this for an "intermittent pump failure" I just had. Fixed it fine.
 
Whooshka said:
Have you followed the 3 wires from the fuel pump back to the connector on the left side with the tank up? Disconnect, clean and reconnect. Just did this for an "intermittent pump failure" I just had. Fixed it fine.
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Not sure this is an issue, as the pump runs fine, and continuously, when the connector at the Fuel Cutoff Relay is jumped as if the relay were pulled closed. Is the connector you refer to after that point? If so, there's continuity to the pump.
 
When the ECU encounters an injector related error code, it won’t start the engine. So no sparks, no activation of the fuelpump. A safetymeasure built in the ECU.
I encoontered this once after working on the throttlebody and accidently dididn’t put the connector on an an injector firm enough.
ECM threw the code for the corresponding connector.

As you have a code 12 and measure odd values on the #1 injector, I suggest you search in that direction. Try interchanging the #1 injectorconnector with #3 and view the then occurring error code. If it changes to 14, the #1 connector is actually faulty (as it then electrically sits in the #3 position). If it remains 12, its a wiring problem.
Dont forget to interchange back...

Martin.
 
Gus1300 said:
Not sure this is an issue, as the pump runs fine, and continuously, when the connector at the Fuel Cutoff Relay is jumped as if the relay were pulled closed. Is the connector you refer to after that point? If so, there's continuity to the pump.
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It takes literally 30-40 seconds to unplug the connector, spray in some contact cleaner and reconnect it. What's to lose?
 
Updated 5 Oct: Pulled the airbox and found the pics in the original post...at least there's something to fix now! All the injectors check good on ohms; guess the one I ordered will be a spare on the shelf.
 
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Gus1300 said:
Updated 5 Oct: Pulled the airbox and found the pics in the original post...at least there's something to fix now! All the injectors check good on ohms; guess the one I ordered will be a spare on the shelf.
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Gus have you sorted your non start issue? I thought it worth mentioning, if not resolved yet...maybe check the fuel lines leading to the fuel pump and pre filter in the lower tank, one could have popped off.... its not such a huge task removing the assembly
 
Ian said:
Gus have you sorted your non start issue?
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I don't have the new injector sub-harness in yet, but it looks much more likely to work than the old one in the pictures! If it doesn't do the trick, I'll continue the search elsewhere. Hopefully there'll be more updates this week...off until Fri AM to work on it.
 
Gus1300 said:
I don't have the new injector sub-harness in yet, but it looks much more likely to work than the old one in the pictures! If it doesn't do the trick, I'll continue the search elsewhere. Hopefully there'll be more updates this week...off until Fri AM to work on it.
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Cool, good luck, hope you find the issue soon! I tend to initially scare myself and hone in and search for the worst case scenario at first, until I convince myself to take a deep breath and focus on the basics, think I have managed to save myself some labour hours over the years, clever Tech guys have the skills, I have to battle things out, but so we learn
 
They're at the bottom of the original post. Figured keeping that one up to speed would tell the whole story if ppl don't want to go through all the comments.

Bottom line (at the bottom): Threaded out the old sub-harness today, and threaded in the new. Listened to that glorious sound of the fuel pump cycling when the key/kill switch went on, then it started up almost immediately on the first try! Shut it back down because I still hadn't replaced the radiator and coolant...it's all back together already except for the outside plastic, with a new air filter and new coolant, adjusted throttle cable and cruise control cable to take up some of the slack. Didn't put in the GPS power harness yet, figure that'll give me something to do over the winter non-riding season. I wanted to get it ready so I could ride to work this Fri-Sat-Sun...finally!

Thanks to all the help troubleshooting! This site is the bomb for people who want to do their own work, and hopefully even encourages those who don't necessarily want to that they can!
 
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