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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
found a st1300 bleed...looks different but same procedure?
Brake fluid level the problem.....?
- Thread starter interceptor44
- Start date
Seriously, watch the videos that were mentioned earlier, on YouTube, about the clutch and brake bleeds for your bike.
The bleed screw is on top of that slave cylinder. It is the only thing you touch - and put a piece of clear plastic tubing over the nipple and direct that into a jar sitting on the floor, to catch the fluid, which will make a mess of everything otherwise. Another tip - brake fluid will strip paint, Be careful with it!
The bleed screw is on top of that slave cylinder. It is the only thing you touch - and put a piece of clear plastic tubing over the nipple and direct that into a jar sitting on the floor, to catch the fluid, which will make a mess of everything otherwise. Another tip - brake fluid will strip paint, Be careful with it!
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
ok, thank you.....and thanks to all for all of the input/info. Will tackle it on Sunday. One more thing, the size tube to drain...
going to Ace Hardware tomorrow.
going to Ace Hardware tomorrow.
Just noticed the dried oily mark around and beneath the slave. It appears it has a bit of a slow leak. The slave cylinder probably needs either an overhaul, or replacement, with parts from Honda.
I find the soft silicone airline tubing used for home aquariums fits very well.
rwthomas1
Site Supporter
Yes, that is the clutch slave cylinder. ALL the bleeding work is done from the little nipple on the top. 8mm I believe. When looking at hydraulic systems, generally, the pressure hose will enter at a low point, and the bleeder will be at a high point. Bubbles rise to top and are released through the bleeder.
Basic instructions:
1. Suck all that crappy fluid out of reservoir with turkey baster, etc. Wipe out reservoir carefully with very clean rag. Refill with clean new fluid.
2. Loosen the bleeder on the slave cylinder, to make sure it isn't frozen, then snug it gently. I like to use a small combination wrench, box end, over the nipple, then a piece of vacuum tubing, or clear hose led to a suitable container. This will collect the expelled fluid and minimize the mess.
3. Pull clutch lever in so it hits the grip and hold it there. This is important. Hold it there firmly. Now open the bleeder. It only takes about an eighth of a turn and you will hear fluid get pushed out by the clutch springs.
4. Close bleeder snugly, not much force is required. Think use one finger. Now you can release the clutch lever. Don't just allow it to snap open, release easy, like you are pulling away from an intersection.
5. Repeat 3 and 4 over and over until clean fluid comes out bleeder. Be careful, keep an eye on the reservoir. Do not let it run dry it'll suck air and you are back at square one.
I bleed with the reservoir cover off, but unless you are very careful you run the risk of jarring the bike and spilling the fluid. It attacks paint, so towels or rags under it are highly recommended. Some like to leave the cover on, but I have trouble seeing the fluid level.
Good luck.
RT
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
Ok...thanks!
OP
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
ok, sounds good, thank you, will let you know.....
STRider
Site Supporter
What he said!
Home Depot has the clear vinyl tubing; 1/4" OD. 10' for just over $3 USD. I run it into a sports drink bottle where I drilled a snug fit hole in the top. You should also pour some brake fluid into the bottle before you start so the open end of the tube never sees air or you can unintentionally suck air BACK into the system you're trying to bleed.
Here's what you're working with too.
My brake bleeding hardware - 3/8" OD for the car on the left, 1/4" OD for the bikes on the right.
ChriSTian_64
Site Supporter
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- Feb 5, 2020
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- 9063
OP
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
Nice! Thank You.What he said!
Home Depot has the clear vinyl tubing; 1/4" OD. 10' for just over $3 USD. I run it into a sports drink bottle where I drilled a snug fit hole in the top. You should also pour some brake fluid into the bottle before you start so the open end of the tube never sees air or you can unintentionally suck air BACK into the system you're trying to bleed.
Here's what you're working with too.
My brake bleeding hardware - 3/8" OD for the car on the left, 1/4" OD for the bikes on the right.
Did you notice my post #25 about the possible leak at the slave cylinder? That would explain the low fluid level in the reservoir. Clean the area around the slave well and then watch for new brake fluid to appear. A minor leak will take some time to become evident again, but shouldn't be overlooked.
OP
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
Got it...I will keep my eye on it after I change fluid...thank you.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
I have more for you as well. I haven't had time to write them down as of yet.
Parging 300 Sq. Ft. of foundation in 90 degree weather with two busted shoulders sucks!
I found these cuties on Ebay a while back.
The left are replacement viewports for master cylinders. Just $3 for the pair. Easy to replace, I did it during master cylinder rebuild as time had yellowed them to the point the fluid could not be seen. They are from a Chinese source but fit well and doesn't leak. They CAN make a quality product, depending on if they are in business for themselves or trying to supply a cheapskate distributor who isn't willing to pay for acceptable parts. Fairing parts from Chinese sources look good in photos but so far have been problems with fit. All something you will learn over time.
The right side little guy is a bleeder by Motion Pro (Ebay, Amazon, etc.) I got two for $10 each from an Amazon source but asking prices are extreme from some sellers...just shop a bit. The tubing sux, it's stiff and wants to stick straight up, so I replaced it with aquarium tubing, longer lengths. This is a one way valve and makes bleeding most anything an easy, one person job. Just get the feel of your bleed fitting, loosen it up just enough for fluid to pass, too loose and it will leak. Just slowly pump the brake lever or pedal until bubbles stop or the old fluid is purged (you can tell when the fluid in the tubing becomes the same shade of clear as the fluid in the bottle). My first service on my 1991 took a full bottle Dot 4 for each of the three reservoirs.
Any more issues with your bike, just ask here. Someone, likely several, will have done the same task and are willing to help.
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STRider
Site Supporter
I can get behind this choice too. Homeless Despot was just more convenient at the time I needed the tubing. And the silicone aquarium air line would be much easier to handle, as the vinyl tubing is rather stiff and forces you to comply with its wishes rather than the other way around.
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
Ok, took old fluid out of reservoir, depressed brake lever, cracked nipple, dirty stuff came out.....
repeated about 3 times, reservoir still about half full of new fluid. Cracked nipple 4th and 5th time...
fluid not going down any further in reservoir. No more flow in tube...shouldn't it just keep flowing
and emptying until you decide it is clean? Buttoned up...clutch and front brakes feel ok...going to do
rear brake now. Okay...did rear, emptied the reservoir three times, was not too dirty.
Wondering why front reservoir did not empty fully...was very dirty so hoping nothing is clogging the line!
Same with clutch reservoir but both seem to work fine! Shifts ok, handle not sloppy and tried front brake
without rear.....real good! Also, flushing rear made big difference...stops much better. Had to depress fully
...now only about halfway.
repeated about 3 times, reservoir still about half full of new fluid. Cracked nipple 4th and 5th time...
fluid not going down any further in reservoir. No more flow in tube...shouldn't it just keep flowing
and emptying until you decide it is clean? Buttoned up...clutch and front brakes feel ok...going to do
rear brake now. Okay...did rear, emptied the reservoir three times, was not too dirty.
Wondering why front reservoir did not empty fully...was very dirty so hoping nothing is clogging the line!
Same with clutch reservoir but both seem to work fine! Shifts ok, handle not sloppy and tried front brake
without rear.....real good! Also, flushing rear made big difference...stops much better. Had to depress fully
...now only about halfway.
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STRider
Site Supporter
I believe the short answer is yes, as long as you keep cracking the bleeder and pumping the lever (or pedal) of these hydraulic systems on the 1100 you should continue to get flow through the system. Sometimes getting that sequence of pump, crack, close, pump (repeat)... coordinated can get confusing, particularly if you're doing it alone. That's where those Motion Pro devices shine. No guesswork.
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interceptor44
1991 ST1100
Ok, well I took it for a spin and all feels good. If it were clogged I am guessing it would be hard to stop or it would
be noticeably worse? Also the clutch would feel mushy/different?
Smudgemo
Intermodal Man of Mystery
I have a note on my clutch bleed that after the first bit of pumping I was able to simply open the bleeder screw and let gravity do the work of exchanging the fluid. Might was well try it if you've got any left over. You can't leave it on the shelf for very long and expect to use it.