jfheath
John Heath
I think your diagnosis of the rear master cylinder must be correct. Only the rear brake pedal operates all three centre pistons - but only the front right dragging is odd - because that piston is subject to a pressure delay. The delay valve on the front right fork leg prevents the front right centre piston from working until a certain level of pressure in the fluid is reached. The elft one operates immediately.
So riding without using the pedal was a good ploy.
If you used the front brake lever - that ONLY operates the 4 front outer pistons directly. However, when the front left caliper grabs the rotating disc, the SMC is operated and that operates the two rear outer pistons. It also does this when the brake pedal applies the front left centre piston. You cannot come to a stop without operating that SMC and the two rear outer pistons !
But at that age, getting a new SMC is no bad idea. I'm surprised it has lasted that long in N Wales.
I'm still a bit concerned that it is ony the front right that is dragging - that seems odd to me.
You have an A9. The design of the calipers changed in 2008, so your has the new design front calipers. The pad spring is different and it is impossible to indsert it the wrong way round. While you have the calipers off, turn it upside down and take a look at how it seats. Not the 4 pressure tags 2 which clip - facing up to the roof - onto the central raised block in the roof of the caliper, and the two - one on each side that press against the sides, facing down so that the bite into the metal when trying to remove them.
When you put the pads in, it is possible for this spring to become slightly dislodged. Even at rest, the blade of the spring nearest the top piston rests below the pistons front edge.
So with new pads, when the pistons are fully pushed in, do not put the pad pin in until both pads are seated correctly in the reatiner clip at the top end of the caliper. You can see it through the spokes of the wheel from the other side. When you are happy, push both pads up against the spring in the roof using the part of the pad that has the hole for the pad pin to slide through. And then hold them in place with the pad pin. With older pads, the pistons are usually not pushed in as far, and the above behaviour cannot happen.
If you don't do this with new pads, it is possible for the pad spring the rock to one side, and part of it gets sandwiched between the piston and the back of the pad. Which makes your brakes behave in a very peculiar way. Don't ask me how I know this. And don't mention the Furka Pass.
So riding without using the pedal was a good ploy.
If you used the front brake lever - that ONLY operates the 4 front outer pistons directly. However, when the front left caliper grabs the rotating disc, the SMC is operated and that operates the two rear outer pistons. It also does this when the brake pedal applies the front left centre piston. You cannot come to a stop without operating that SMC and the two rear outer pistons !
But at that age, getting a new SMC is no bad idea. I'm surprised it has lasted that long in N Wales.
I'm still a bit concerned that it is ony the front right that is dragging - that seems odd to me.
You have an A9. The design of the calipers changed in 2008, so your has the new design front calipers. The pad spring is different and it is impossible to indsert it the wrong way round. While you have the calipers off, turn it upside down and take a look at how it seats. Not the 4 pressure tags 2 which clip - facing up to the roof - onto the central raised block in the roof of the caliper, and the two - one on each side that press against the sides, facing down so that the bite into the metal when trying to remove them.
When you put the pads in, it is possible for this spring to become slightly dislodged. Even at rest, the blade of the spring nearest the top piston rests below the pistons front edge.
So with new pads, when the pistons are fully pushed in, do not put the pad pin in until both pads are seated correctly in the reatiner clip at the top end of the caliper. You can see it through the spokes of the wheel from the other side. When you are happy, push both pads up against the spring in the roof using the part of the pad that has the hole for the pad pin to slide through. And then hold them in place with the pad pin. With older pads, the pistons are usually not pushed in as far, and the above behaviour cannot happen.
If you don't do this with new pads, it is possible for the pad spring the rock to one side, and part of it gets sandwiched between the piston and the back of the pad. Which makes your brakes behave in a very peculiar way. Don't ask me how I know this. And don't mention the Furka Pass.
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