Broken Bolt In Handlebar Weight

WØQNX said:
Yes the hole is under the grip. Throttle side is baaad. I hope you can get the bolt out.
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Being under is probably the reason I never noticed - I'm 'edjumucated' now!
I'll probably try the lefthanded drill bit and if that doesn't work, I'll just replace the handlebars.
Trying to get the throttle tube, etc. off is a royal pain in the anatomy!
 
Uncle Phil said:
Being under is probably the reason I never noticed - I'm 'edjumucated' now!
I'll probably try the lefthanded drill bit and if that doesn't work, I'll just replace the handlebars.
Trying to get the throttle tube, etc. off is a royal pain in the anatomy!
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I'd spray some thread loosener on it let it sit a good while and try the left hand drill. It should be "free" if the bar end is gone. All it holds is the bar end. It might spin right out with the left hand bit.

If you can't tell, been there done this.
 
Looking at the bad right grip picture.

I would use an automatic center punch to get a punch mark in the center of the broken screw.. When you get a nice dimple in the center of the broken screw, I would get a regular center punch and hammer (couple pounder). Line up the center punch and lightly hit the center punch. The idea is to let the weight do the work, not a big swing. Between making a larger dimple to drill into, you are also shocking the threads, hopefully breaking loose any rust, thread locker or whatever. If you have a center drill, I would start with that. But like an "easy out", if you tip, the drill too far, while drilling, it will break the tip off and you'll have a hard piece of metal in the hole to deal with. Drill deep enough to get a conical hole for the drill bit to follow. As mentioned, a left hand bit would be preferential. I would also lock the handle bars in place if possible. I've never looked at the 1100 lock system (don't think I ever locked the bars). I do know due to the design of the locking mechanism on some older bikes, a lug the lock cylinder locked into would get broken off in a crash. Thus the bars couldn't be locked.

I think if you loosen the handle bars in the center and slide them to the left, you can remove the whole right control pod and throttle tube/grip. If you remove the center top clamps, use towels profusely to try to mitigate paint scratching. :biggrin: Take the clutch ass'y off also and use the bench vise to hold the bars while working on them.

center drill example, available at many hardware stores

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Uncle Phil said:
No portion of the bolt is extending out so I can't weld to it or grab it with a pair of pliers.
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I've seen sunken bolts removed (by gifted techs, not me!) with stick welding. Didn't see it done, only the result (looked like magic), but must have been something like here:




 
WØQNX said:
It won't come out until clip 9 is pushed inwards. That keeps the entire assy. inside the bars not the bolt. Clip 9 drops down into a hole drilled into the handelbar.

click on the link to part 9 in the fische link. The clip goes both in the bar and the weight via the bent over ears.
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If you screw up #9, a new "clip #9" is not available from Honda.

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1999 Honda ST1100AAC Handlebar@Top Bridge

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Not on the old style Heli-Bars.

I don't have any stock handle bars handy to check but I doubt it.
 
hmm....

- pre '95 bar type with welded inner weights (low profile plastic cover, welded on square center piece)?
or
- post '96 bar type with the removable inner weights (tall plastic cover, bare center tube)?
 
ST1100Y said:
hmm....

- pre '95 bar type with welded inner weights (low profile plastic cover, welded on square center piece)?
or
- post '96 bar type with the removable inner weights (tall plastic cover, bare center tube)?
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His sigline says his oldest bike is a 97.
 
I've had luck in the past with snapped off bolts by drilling progressively larger holes in the center of the bolt until just a few thread shavings remained and I cleaned them out with a tap. Takes only a few minutes to try, quicker than swapping the bars out, you can always do that as a last resort.
 
dwalby said:
I've had luck in the past with snapped off bolts by drilling progressively larger holes in the center of the bolt until just a few thread shavings remained and I cleaned them out with a tap. Takes only a few minutes to try, quicker than swapping the bars out, you can always do that as a last resort.
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I've done that before also.
I'm going to try the lefthanded bit first and if that doesn't work, then it will be the 'progressive' drill method.
 
Ah the broken bolt problem , left handed drills work on good on a clean unseized bolt threaded section . Corrodeed bolts I found drilling out in small steps most effective. Gettin the center punch in the middle of the bolt is most important.
 
WØQNX said:
But since I are a former machinist guy, first I'd carefully drill a small dimple off center in the broken bolt end and try to spin the borken bolt out with a small point punch (or a tap with a point on the end used as a small pointed punch). If that doesn't work drill another very small dimple on the other side of small broken bolt and try a small screwdriver. That bolt shouldn't be too tight since it was broke off when the bar end "hit".
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Not sure there is enough room here, but I've seen machinists going your way, two offset holes, two point punches and torquing out with a screwdriver between the two punches held together. But the bolts were fairly loose.
 
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