Broken Starter Valve #1

YR

Joined
Feb 18, 2006
Messages
117
Location
Wexford, PA
Bike
ST1300A
The bike does not hold lower idle RPM when cold and I removed the fuel tank and air box to see what is going on. I found the starter value of cylinder #1 broken -- see pics. Anyone saw something like that before? Suggestions? (beyond now fix it :))

BT03.jpgBT04.jpg).

Many thanks, Yoed
 
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Not only haven't ever heard or seen this problem, I wouldn't know that it was wrong when I looked at it!

How do you fix it? Do you just snug it up like the others?
 
Why does the 'nut area' look different on that one? It doesn't look like a nut at all...
 
Mark said:
Why does the 'nut area' look different on that one? It doesn't look like a nut at all...
Click to expand...

That's just the way that 1st one looks, here are a couple other pics from the articles section:

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Mellow,

Please take a look again Starter Valve #1 in my picture. You can actually see the spring, which pushed the head away towards the wax assembly link.

Yoed
 
YR said:
Mellow,

Please take a look again Starter Valve #1 in my picture. You can actually see the spring, which pushed the head away towards the wax assembly link.

Yoed
Click to expand...

Joe was telling me that the nut area looks normal... Not that you don't have an issue...
 
Byron said:
Looks like you need to order: [h=1]16046-MCW-003 VALVE SET A, STARTER[/h]
I assume that the set will include the correct #1 valve. Luckly, it is not an expensive fix at $22.37.
Click to expand...

Actually, this is the only one which cannot be adjusted. You cannot buy it. It is painted wight on its head and it is factory adjusted to the Throttle Body. The three other valves are adjusted to it.
 
Mark said:
Joe was telling me that the nut area looks normal... Not that you don't have an issue...
Click to expand...

There is no adjustment nut on the #1 cylinder as it is used as the baseline for adjusting all the other valves. It appears that the plastic part that holds it to the throttlebody has broken at the thread, leaving the threads inside the throttlebody. It should be a simple matter of removing the old part, use something to help unscrew the broken threads from the throttlebody, and replace with new #1 valve.
 
Mark said:
Why does the 'nut area' look different on that one? It doesn't look like a nut at all...
Click to expand...

#1 starter valve is the "master" and non adjustable. The other valves are synched to this one.
 
YR said:
Actually, this is the only one which cannot be adjusted. You cannot buy it. It is painted wight on its head and it is factory adjusted to the Throttle Body. The three other valves are adjusted to it.
Click to expand...

My assumption is that because it said "SET" that it included all 4 valves. If it does not include the #1 valve then I would check with the local dealer and see what they do to repair. The only difference is that the adjustment nut has been set on the shaft so it can't be adjusted. Makes no sense that you would have to buy a whole new throttlebody assembly just to replace this one valve.
 
Byron said:
Makes no sense that you would have to buy a whole new throttlebody assembly just to replace this one valve.
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First challenge will be to get the broken thread section out of the throttle body. Why could one not replace it with an adjustable one and just double nut it to remind you not to move it. I am assuming that except for the nonadjustability it is the same as the other three in design.
 
Kevin_56 said:
First challenge will be to get the broken thread section out of the throttle body. Why could one not replace it with an adjustable one and just double nut it to remind you not to move it. I am assuming that except for the nonadjustability it is the same as the other three in design.
Click to expand...

It would not be a big deal to take it out. It is a plastic thread and I can get reasonable access. I believe that this one is "calibrated" with the throttle body by Honda, and it is the reference for valve synchronization.
 
I would bet that it's not really 'calibrated' by Honda.. it's simply a set part that is the same length on all bikes and the other 3 nuts are used to adjust to that... but nothing special about the #1, it's just non-movable.
 
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