Clutch Won't Engage When Bike is Hot

timothydlucas

2007 Honda ST1300
Joined
Mar 15, 2019
Messages
3
Age
56
Location
Fredericksburg, Virginia
Bike
2007 Honda ST1300
Hey Guys! I am fairly new to this forum, but I am enjoying the conversations and interaction. I have a 1991 Honda ST1100 and my clutch goes out after about 15 minutes of riding. If I let the bike sit for 30 minutes it goes back to normal. Any ideas? Thanks.
 
Check the brass bush and pushrod in the clutch lever assembly. 4 minute job, it may be badly worn and not releasing the clutch. Also see the article on Clutch Handle Assembly with photographs in the ST1100 Articles.
 
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Timothy, If your clutch is slipping or not engaging after it reaches operating temp, I would ask whether there has been a recent oil change and if so was the proper oil used. Some oils have additives that are incompatible with wet, multi-plate clutches used in ST's. Typically these are labeled 'energy conserving' or similar.
 
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flush and bleed the clutch first, then if it still occurs check your clutch lines for expansion (or just replace them because it's hard to see what's going on inside the lines.
 
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Hi Timothy:

It can be frustrating to troubleshoot problems with the ST 1100 clutch, because there are a lot of different things that can cause problems, the "problems" don't always manifest with exactly the same presentation, and sometimes "the fix" isn't immediately apparent. This is one of the rare instances where you almost have to 'shotgun' the repair process - by that I mean you just throw everything you can think of at the problem, in hope that something will fix it, rather than going through a rational 'paths of influence' analysis before solving the problem with a single 'silver bullet' fix.

Fellow forum members have made some good suggestions above. There's not a lot I can add to what they have suggested, other than to perhaps sort the suggestions into an "order of difficulty" so you can start by doing the easiest / least expensive troubleshooting actions first, then progress to the most difficult / most expensive actions if the first actions didn't solve the problem.

1) Examine the small round brass bush that is embedded in the inboard end of the clutch lever, and examine the rod that goes between the bush and the inside of the clutch master cylinder. The bush tends to wear out over time - the hole in the side of it is only about 50% of the depth of the bush diameter when new, but over time it can wear all the way through. This reduces the amount of movement transmitted to the clutch master cylinder. The bush is cheap. Chances are while you are in there you will find the rubber boot that the rod passes through which fits inside the opening on the side of the master cylinder has perished and needs to be replaced. It's cheap as well. Total time needed for investigation & rectification - less than half an hour. See this post for more detail: Rebuilt master cylinder & now no forward motion?

2) Find out exactly what engine oil was used last time you had the engine oil changed. The newer engine oils made for cars that are labelled "energy-conserving" are toxic to motorcycle clutches and cause the clutch to slip. You need to use an engine oil that is specifically made for motorcycles and does not have the 'energy-conserving' identification mark on the container. See this post for more information, including an illustration of the 'energy-conserving' label: T6 10w30

3) Remove the cap from the clutch reservoir and check the clutch fluid level. Sounds fundamental, but it's quick & easy to do. The fluid should be clear, not amber. Because the fluid absorbs moisture over time, it needs to be replaced every two years. It's not that difficult to replace the fluid yourself, but if you have never done it before, try to get together with a fellow ST owner who has done it before who can show you the "tricks of the trade". The fluid is cheap. Here's a link to a discussion about bleeding the clutch to solve a similar problem: Difficulty shifting down See also this discussion: Clutch reservoir part

4) It's possible that the clutch slave cylinder is failing. I'm not exactly sure how that would tie in with the 'heat-related' problem you have (clutch not engaging when the bike is hot) - but I do recall when I had my 'clutch wouldn't fully disengage' problem, I only had the problem when the bike was fully warmed up, not when it was cold. It is a nuisance to replace that slave cylinder and some of the parts are expensive. Plan on more or less a full day of work if you are doing it yourself. Here's a how-to: ST1100 - Replacing the Clutch Slave Cylinder

5) I'll put investigation and rebuilding of the clutch master cylinder way down towards the bottom of the list, this because it should not be affected by heat in any way. There is a kit available from Honda to rebuild the master cylinder. I did this on my bike, and it didn't make any difference.

6) Examine the clutch hose. It might be swelling a bit, likely down by the engine end of it, because it is getting old and perishing. Honda no longer sells clutch hoses, you will need to go to a third party - perhaps Galfer - to get a new one.

Good luck with it all, keep us informed, and don't hesitate to post questions here if you encounter any difficulty.

Michael
 
After just rebuilding my Clutch master it seems the rebuild KIT is overkill.
The Spring is reusable, so is the Circlip and even the piston as far as I can tell.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't I just need the rubber parts that wear.
After spending $55 on a Clutch rebuild kit I wonder if anyone has sourced just the little rubber bits.
 
After just rebuilding my Clutch master it seems the rebuild KIT is overkill.
The Spring is reusable, so is the Circlip and even the piston as far as I can tell.
Correct me if I'm wrong but don't I just need the rubber parts that wear.
After spending $55 on a Clutch rebuild kit I wonder if anyone has sourced just the little rubber bits.
I see your point Sn'B. But how would you know what bits you would need before going in there. What if you were replacing the seal only to find the spring had broke and I think the new Circlip would be considered a safety essential because of where it is.
As an aside are the parts available separately from Honda?
Plus what else are you going to be spending your money on :biggrin:.
Upt'North.

EDIT, from a quick look it would appear not but CMS in NL sell sell an aftermarket set for €40.
 
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I see your point Sn'B. But how would you know what bits you would need before going in there. What if you were replacing the seal only to find the spring had broke and I think the new Circlip would be considered a safety essential because of where it is.
As an aside are the parts available separately from Honda?
Plus what else are you going to be spending your money on :biggrin:.
Upt'North.

EDIT, from a quick look it would appear not but CMS in NL sell sell an aftermarket set for €40.
I have spares from other rebuilds and if need be I could replace any broken bits, I have no problem re-using circlips they don't wear.
I did spot a Chinese supplier that sells 3 different sizes....I wish I still had the brand new parts to measure but would hesitate (understatement) to use an untested Chinese product in my Brake system
 
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After just rebuilding my Clutch master it seems the rebuild KIT is overkill.
That's not an unreasonable assumption, but the other side of the coin is that we don't have access to the specifications we need to determine if the spring is delivering the correct resistance, or if the other metal parts such as the piston measure within spec.

I do know, from my own experience, that some of the rubber bits perish and need to be replaced on their own from time to time, without rebuilding the whole clutch (or front brake) assembly. I think these rubber parts can be purchased on their own.

Michael
 
I have a 1991 Honda ST1100 and my clutch goes out after about 15 minutes of riding.

I'm sorry, I don't understand what you mean by this. (I'm across the other side of the pond you know)

Do you mean that when you pull the clutch lever in towards the bar, it does not disengage the drive to the rear wheel ?
Or do you mean that there is no drive to the back wheel even though it is in gear and the clutch lever is not pulled in.
 
I have read through this thread and the link bringing into play your oil type posted by CYYJ
See this post for more information, including an illustration of the 'energy-conserving' label: T6 10w30

My clutch is fading away when the bike gets warm. I replaced the clutch fluid and did an oil change. I used Rotella T4 and in Shell's literature is states:

SPECIFICATIONS AND APPROVALS Shell ROTELLA® T4 15W-40 API, CK-4, CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4; ACEA E9, JASO DH-2, MA/MA 2; Caterpillar ECF-2, ECF-3; Cummins CES 20086; DDC DFS 93K222; Deutz DQC III-10 LA; MACK EOS-4.5; MAN M3575; MB-Approval 228.31; MTU Category 2.1; Volvo VDS-4.5

I understand what I have high-lighted above as meaning it is JASO DH-2, JASO MA, and JASO MA2 compliant. It is compliant in all 3.

- FOLLOWING CYYJ's LIST
So... with regards to CYYJ's list above....
1) Examine the small round brass bush that is embedded in the inboard end of the clutch lever, and examine the rod that goes between the bush and the inside of the clutch master cylinder.
I will be checking that today
2) Find out exactly what engine oil was used last time you had the engine oil changed
Addressed that above... am I good there? (I think I am)
3) Remove the cap from the clutch reservoir and check the clutch fluid level
Easy enough to do... Just did a total fluid change.... should be good but one never knows, stupider things have been problems.
4) It's possible that the clutch slave cylinder is failing.
Clutch slave failure? I am not the expert as some of you fine people are. I have read a few forum posts and have watched a youTube video... not a difficult job. I would do that if nothing else fixes the problem.
5) I'll put investigation and rebuilding of the clutch master cylinder way down towards the bottom of the list,
Like #4, not a difficult task. If I end up rebuilding the slave may as well rebuild the master. Just that much closer to rebuilding the system completely.
6) Examine the clutch hose. It might be swelling a bit
I did notice that Honda no longer sells them when I followed a link to see what the master rebuild kit consisted of. I'll look around.

My bike has been pretty reliable the 4 year I have owned it. This and a vibration in my lower gears have been my only pressing issues that are frustrating me which make me ask... could they be related? My clutch is not slipping so I don't think I need to go that deep. Hopefully the clutch is something easy.

Thanks for any pointers or thoughts.
 
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