Daydreaming about modifications

Joined
Feb 9, 2025
Messages
20
Age
30
Location
Spain-Italy
Bike
Honda ST1300
I'm a fan of DIY (Do It Yourself) maintenance and projects. Now, with spaces like these on the internet and all the open-source material out there, it can be a great opportunity to learn a skill and have some fun.
If only we had an infinite amount of motivation, time, and money! But I wanted to try the mental exercise of imagining that's the case.

I'll post all the things I'd like to do. Hopefully, some of you will notice some gaps on the list or some things that are utterly useless and inconvenient.

USB ports & voltimeter
USB port capable rated for charging at least two devices simultaneously with an embedded voltimeter to be able to check the battery. This is probably the main one that I want installed as soon as possible. I have a trip planned from Turin (Northern Italy) to Málaga (Southern Spain), and I'm concerned my phone battery won't last long enough. My phone is also my GPS, so running out of battery could be very inconvenient. I'd like to be able to charge at least a couple of devices in case I'm charging the phone and a spare set of Bluetooth earbuds while riding (nice for music but also to hear the GPS indications).
Since this upgrade is part of the near future, I'll be posting a thread asking for indications if I can't find enough details on what's already present in this forum or on YouTube.
My current plan is to buy something similar to what's shown in the picture and install it inside one of the front pockets so it's a little more protected against the elements. Ideally, controlled with a button and by the following logic:
  • IF the engine is NOT running AND the button is OFF-> USB and voltimeter are OFF.
  • IF the engine is NOT running AND the (sprung) button is ON (pressed)-> USB and voltimeter are ON to get a voltimeter reading from the battery. The spring will shut it down once released.
  • IF the engine is running -> USB and voltimeter are ON.
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USB plug and voltimeter link

Maybe a sprung button is not the way to go, but it's what came to my head. I'm not familiar yet with relays, although I saw them mentioned several times in other threads, along with fuses and rated wire gauges. Doing this could be a chance to try them. I have done quite a bit of maintenance on my bikes, but the electrical part has always been kind of black magic to me.

Smart remote for the phone.
Controlling the phone while it's inside its cover can be tricky. Doing it while riding and wearing gloves makes it nearly impossible. One of these simple things should allow me to increase/decrease the volume, which is the main feature I'm looking for in case I need it to hear the GPS more clearly. The fact that it'd also be able to skip songs is welcome.
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Smart Remote link

Highway pegs
These were mentioned in this forum as well. It comes from this video on YouTube. I don't think they'll be super comfortable, but the point is to be able to change the leg position for some time. My right knee is not in top shape, so I could use this in long rides to stretch a bit every now and then.
I can see the MCL Sport Touring logo in the picture, but I'm yet to find where to source them. Also, I really don't like chamfered screws. It's so easy to round off the head. Maybe a large enough washer and a different bolt would do it. I don't know if there are other manufacturers.
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Battery tender
I have an old-style charger with clamps for the battery leads, but having a connector would be so much nicer, safer, and easier to use.

Change lights to LEDs and extra lights
I don't want to go around blinding incoming traffic, but I could use some extra light. LEDs are just so much better in my opinion. More of the energy is transformed into light, which makes them brighter, not as hot, and more durable.
  • All lights to LED.
  • Rear brake.
    • I'd like to add that feature, where it blinks rapidly when breaking before it remains steady.
    • Add a stationary and a brake light to the top box. I always have it on anyway.
  • Front turning signals changed to clear crystal and white/yellow light. I saw this in the forum, and I think it looks really nice. I'd be a little concerned about blinding incoming traffic since I don't think the pointing of these lights can be adjusted, but I guess it's fine since people are doing it. You can see the thread where I found about them.
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Gear indicator
Not the most useful thing in the world, but still nice to have. Some people have it integrated in the front panel in a very seamless way. It looks almost OEM.
I'll comment more about integration later. It applies to all the add-ons.

Mod regarding the turning light indicator.
I don't think I'm especially tall (around 1.85 m), but I have lots of trouble seeing the indicator of the turning lights. Am I the only one with this problem? I tried the different positions of the sit, but I just can't find a comfortable posture that allows me to see them. The upper part of the panel blocks the view. Somewhat often, I turn them on and forget to shut them off, which can extend for a long time since I don't see the blinking light and, unlike cars, I can't hear anything either. I'm sure there must be a simple fix for this.

Changing the seat and handlebars
This is something common, according to what I can find on the internet, but I actually can't find a reason to do it besides the point I mentioned about not being able to see the turning light indicator. I think Honda did a good job of making a comfortable ride.

Windscreen
  • The mechanism is very troublesome. I had some problems with it too, although I was lucky and it was just a fuse. I saw in the forum that there's a reinforced version of the system. In an ideal world, I guess I'd install it. Too often, I don't use the electrical windshield because I'm too concerned about breaking it.
  • The OEM windscreen gives me a lot of dirty wind on the head. I tried many different positions, but I couldn't get it right. I've seen some people recommending this one.
Steel braided lines
I tried them on a friend's bike, and it does feel different. Is it worth changing it in the clutch, though? Also, should this be a chance to change the combined braking system? I feel like I could do without some complexity to reduce the maintenance and potential problems.

Heated grips
The bike is pretty hot by itself, and the hands are already covered. Still, in this ideal world / mental experiment where installing it is costless, I'd add them.

Cruise control
I would not trust those mechanical throttle locks. Instead, I saw people mentioning some Australian guys offering a great package. I assume it deactivates when you hit the brakes or the clutch, and probably has some extra logic too on top of that to ensure safe operation.

OBC (On Board Computer) and modified front panel
I have mentioned a lot of mods, many of them electrical. They offer quite a bit of information and control that wasn't initially there. In an ideal world, I'd love a project where I link all these new systems together with an OBC and modify the front panel to add a screen (something subtle with automatic brightness) with a few buttons so all the information can be easily accessible. If the plan was to modify the front panel as little as possible, an option would be to use the space dedicated for the speakers (those things with holes are for the speakers, right?). It'd be nice to have the speakers too, but it'd be a reasonable sacrifice even in this imaginary experiment where sacrifices are not needed.



So that would be my list in this imaginary world with an infinite amount of motivation, time, and money.
What do you think? Did I miss something crucial? Or the other way around, something that should be clearly removed.
 
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You should of bought a BMW.... no mods needed plus you get cruise control, heated grips and seat. :thumb: The first part, USB/voltmeter, easy. It's not recommended using a old style battery charger with AGM and lithium batteries which most batteries are now.
If you understand this https://www.st-owners.com/forums/attachments/03-07-standard-wiring-pdf.129951/ You will have no problems redesigning your dash with some ingenuity.
 
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First, the ST1300 accepts a Honda accessory called the Quartet Harness. This is a wiring harness that plugs into a connector that is taped to the left side front cowl subframe - roughly even with and below the windshield and taped to one of the tubular members of the frame that holds the windshield and dashboard to the bike. The quartet harness has 3 jacks or connectors and was designed to power Honda's radio, heated grips, and navigation/phone gear. Go to Articles in the blue band atop this page, click on ST1300 and do a search for Quartet Harness - there are 3 articles that describe this.

Highway pegs were made by MCL - a company long since out of business. Now and then used ones come up for sale, but I think someone was making a batch with CNC machining. Again, do a search - blue band atop this page, right side.

LED bulbs are available on Amazon. There are a number of very long threads, often begun by Spiderman302 a lighting engineer. I strongly suggest you read all of those threads because the technology changed from the first posts to the present. If you add additional lighting, I'd suggest adding an auxiliary fusebox to handle the loads.

Battery Tender - if you use an AGM battery you will need one designed for these batteries. AGM batteries do not like the anti-sulfation mode found in most tenders that were designed for flooded lead acid batteries.

Turning indicator mod - there was a thread describing LEDs installed on the top of the dash that reflect off the inside of the windshield to help remind you to turn them off. Another mod, discussed in another thread was a 'chain' of 5 leds installed around the outside edge of the mirrors (and inside the mirror cover).

Gear Indicator - this is a plug and play accessory (aftermarket). The same company also makes the SpeedoHealer to make the speedometer or odometer more accurate. It is impossible to get both spot on since the error in these two items are different.

IIRC there are two cruise controls for the ST. McCruise is one, I forget the other brand.

Heated grips - a lot of guys like Oxford brand, but there are many others.

Steel braided brake lines - a friend, @sirbike, is working with Galfer to let them make a set of these for the ST. Having seen what he is going through, installing a full set is not for the faint of heart. It is a lot of work.

Windscreen - most of the ST's out there are older - either 20+ years old or close to 20 years old. You might have to tear the mechanism apart, clean and lube the tracks and sliders and perhaps replace the gear and/or cables from bikequip.com. Again, go to articles and do a search. There are a number of aftermarket shields for the ST.

Seat - It is impossible for any mfr to design a seat that pleases and fits all of the various sized fundaments out there. That's why we have so many custom seat companies.
 
First, the ST1300 accepts a Honda accessory called the Quartet Harness.

Better grab one quick. They are getting rare.


There is also this alternate solution

 
I feel like I could do without some complexity to reduce the maintenance and potential problems.
If you leave them stock and maintain them, the brakes will work, if you start altering the system, you have to hope they work, and you still have to maintain them.

Add one mod at a time to make sure your going in the right direction, and if something doesn't work, you know it was the last thing you did. The seat, bars and highway pegs are the hardest, comfort is relative to the rider. I have changed all and lower pegs, and can say the latest seat means I can put my stock pegs back on. It also affects the comfort of the windscreen. Go slowly and use each mod for a while before you add the next. Just one man's opinion.

Best wishes.
 
Highway pegs
These were mentioned in this forum as well. It comes from this video on YouTube. I don't think they'll be super comfortable, but the point is to be able to change the leg position for some time. My right knee is not in top shape, so I could use this in long rides to stretch a bit every now and then.
I can see the MCL Sport Touring logo in the picture, but I'm yet to find where to source them. Also, I really don't like chamfered screws. It's so easy to round off the head. Maybe a large enough washer and a different bolt would do it. I don't know if there are other manufacturers.
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MCL is long out of business.
 
Highway pegs
I can see the MCL Sport Touring logo in the picture, but I'm yet to find where to source them.
Since, as you acknowledged, MCL is gone used is the only option for original examples. There is a machinist who has offered clones of these on this website...do a search.
Also, I really don't like chamfered screws. It's so easy to round off the head.
I would guess that being careless with tools - using the wrong size wrench - is the real problem here. The head shape does not make it easier or more difficult to 'round off'.
 
Hi Juanda,

I've applied every mod you describe except the braided lines, OBC and speakers.

Frankly, for me, those are unnecessary. My brakes are more than powerful enough with OEM lines. Switching to braided SS would be a big project given the complexity of the plumbling. Plus, much of the system is hard pipe and the OEM rubber hoses are surprisingly short given the dimensions of the bike.

I'm not sure what information one could get from the OBC that would be worth the effort for me.

And similarly, I have no interest in my bike making more noise than what comes from the engine or exhaust, but Honda did sell an audio system, so the fairing is designed to hold them behind the grills inside the fairing cockpit. I doubt you'd want that Honda accessory, but I'm sure you could source stanard size speakers that could fit and rig your own audio source to power them.
 
Maybe a sprung button is not the way to go
I think it is but I'd probably use a separate momentary pushbutton that could be replaced if it went bad. That's probably more personal preference than anything. But being able to walk up to the bike and check battery voltage without all the lights turning on is a plus in my book.

I don't want to go around blinding incoming traffic, but I could use some extra light
Don't we all. I got a solid pair of LED bulbs that work well. And it IS possible to adjust the point of aim - individually as well as together.
I don't think I'm especially tall (around 1.85 m), but I have lots of trouble seeing the indicator of the turning lights. Am I the only one with this problem?
No. There was an excellent thread about this but it's long gone now. It involve putting a 5mm LED in the leading edge of the dash above each factory indicator and wiring them to same.

This was an incredible mod elegant in its simplicity. The LED was not blinding at night and could be seen directly in just about any level of sunlight. A bonus was that it shone in the windshield and that could be seen in any level of sunlight. And it wasn't blinding or distracting at night.

One of the keys was getting a couple of LEDs that already had a resistor wired so to each. These two bulbs were 12+ ready. Mount them in the dash then connect them to the respective indicators — done. I did it with one centrally located LED but recommend two as was originally conceived.

I would not trust those mechanical throttle locks.
I don't know what your trust issues are. I have found them extremely trustworthy. But throttle locks are not cruise controls. If a cruse control is what you prefer the McCruise of the Australian McCruises gets very high marks here from guys who actually have them. Some guys having more than one – maybe four or more. Satisfaction to the fourth power.

Me I don't ride far enough long enough to need a proper cruise control. So for me the Go-Cruise throttle lock is genius. Simple effective function is very efficient and nature. It might provide some immediate functionality for you while you're waiting to install a McCruise.


Highway pegs
These were mentioned in this forum as well.
I have the MCL pegs and don't recommend them. Not to say they won't work for a given individual but like a custom seat not everyone will get the same satisfaction. For me they're a bit of a stretch. That's sort of the point of highway pegs. But they should allow you to stretch your legs not require it. Besides the forced stretch (for me) they splay my legs out a fair bit and I didn't find that comfortable.

Something that did help me was replacing the ST pegs with GoldWing pegs. This was a very small difference in height but a noticeable difference in ride comfort. It's not the same for everybody.

Having added speakers to a GL1000 GoldWing I believe doing so is only to annoy others. I'd say they'd be handy for listening to music while working on or washing the bike. Except the battery has a short standby life IGN On engine Off. On the road speakers in your helmet would be more rewarding.
 
I'll be darned.
And disappointed!
Because as ornery, cantankerous, curmudgeonly, obstinate, disagreeable, obnoxious, and argumentative as I am... I can't find anything posted by these ST veterans to disagree with.
Darn!
I've also added, considered, or see the desirability of many of your ideas, except for the OBD and gear indicator. That's me.
The turn signal housing LED indicators, the McCruise, ultimately LED headlights are all on my list for "maybe someday", but time is my main constraint. I've set mine up perfectly except for the McCruise and better headlights.
You might consider a dash shelf, and perhaps rear crash bars to save the saddlebags in a tip over.
Heated Warm and Safe jacket and gloves serve me better than just grip heaters, although as @Al st1100 mentioned above in Post #2 , my 1250 GSA has just about all those gadgets.
(But it's still not a Honda ST1300 V4!)
 
Change lights to LEDs and extra lights
I don't want to go around blinding incoming traffic, but I could use some extra light. LEDs are just so much better in my opinion. More of the energy is transformed into light, which makes them brighter, not as hot, and more durable.
  • All lights to LED.
  • Rear brake.
    • I'd like to add that feature, where it blinks rapidly when breaking before it remains steady.
    • Add a stationary and a brake light to the top box. I always have it on anyway.
  • Front turning signals changed to clear crystal and white/yellow light. I saw this in the forum, and I think it looks really nice. I'd be a little concerned about blinding incoming traffic since I don't think the pointing of these lights can be adjusted, but I guess it's fine since people are doing it. You can see the thread where I found about them.

Having lived through a full LED conversion on my 1300, pay close attention to the dimensions of the switchback LED lamps for the front signals (after installing the clear lenses) and the tail/brake lights.

My advice is, don't go cheap. I did initially, expecting equivalent performance, and how different could these lamps be?

Very different. My first ones were made from extruded aluminum tubing and some other machined parts with the LEDs and their circuits stuffed into the lamp body. Not only did they strike me as not being very weather proof, but the killer was they didn't fit into the signal shell! They were too long and hit the interior wall of the lens before the base engaged with the mount.

Dimensions are critical in this application!

In the picture below:
  • OEM bulb on top.
  • Useless cheap LED switchback on the bottom
  • Acceptable LED in the middle.
Save yourself some hassle and buy only if the dimensions are provided by the seller, or choose ones vetted by other STOC members.

Also, don't forget to replace the signal flasher with an aftermarket solid state one whose flash rate is not dependent on the load on the system. IMO a better approach than adding resistors to each signal to control the flash rate. Those resistors are just turning your electrical system power into heat.


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