The fan on my f2's are starting to make noise. I haven't ridden the ST in a while. Will the noise go away when the fan is on a while or is it a sign of impending death?
H4 LED - 2018 Evitek, F2 replaces G6
- Thread starter spiderman302
- Start date
Above 40 mph I never hear the noise.
I always carry an old halogen bulb as a backup. If it fails on the road, I'm not riding blind.
Chris
Chris
By George!
By gum!
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
Same ones that 11Jack bought just arrived today. Amazon ---> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RHZGLP/?coliid=I2G8GF7XGBFDVU&colid=B3XWURNGQTLA&psc=0
I'm hoping for an easy install tomorrow as the body work is off right now and I already have the adapter rings from a halogen H4 upgrade.
I'm hoping for an easy install tomorrow as the body work is off right now and I already have the adapter rings from a halogen H4 upgrade.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
You do not need the adapter rings for the ST1300- only the ST1100. Using the adapter rings will change the focal point of the bulbs.
+1 I installed 55/60W bulbs then G6 LEDs in my ST1300 and didn't use the adapter rings (aka shims) at all.Andrew Shadow said:
They are needed in the ST1100 because the three tabs support the bulb and prevent it from falling into the headlight assembly. In the 1300 there's a rim in the assembly that support the bulb. The tabs only provide orientation.
The adapters will provide some stability when installing the modded bulbs but if you're reasonably careful you won't twist it and push it into the nacelle. I didn't. But it's not necessary and will alter the focal point as Andrew mentioned. I don't know the extent of that impact but I didn't use them.
One other point – there have been a couple of comments about the added thickness of the adapters making it difficult to lock the bail. I had enough of a problem without it to ever consider using the shims unless absolutely necessary. It wasn't so I didn't.
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
Thanks for the info. I was under the impression I needed them for the 1300. So do the tabs on the new F2 still need to be trimmed?
Yup,, I cut mine off with a pair of side cutters,,, took like 5 seconds each. Pay attention to which 2 tabs you trim off though !! Cat'
sirbike
Site Supporter
The lower tabs need to be trimmed.
Also about my concern with brightness, I have ridden
Also about my concern with brightness, I have ridden
home enough at night now on a major two lane road and maybe enough on two lane backroads to say I have not been flashed.
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
So installing new bubs is a snap when the body work is off. LOL Popped right in.
I haven't ridden it yet but WOW!!! They sure as heck light up the garage even in the day time. I think I'm gonna like this mod.
I haven't ridden it yet but WOW!!! They sure as heck light up the garage even in the day time. I think I'm gonna like this mod.
I replaced the position lights 2 years ago with amber LEDS. I like the contrast. I was able to change them without any problems.
My fans both started making noise within a few months of installing. Been over a year an 15k mi now and nothing has changed. Upon ignition on the cheap fan bearings scream for about a minute, then they must warm up and quiet down. Have checked at the end of a long day and both are still spinning.
May at some point pull them out and disassemble enough to add some lube...
Wow..361 posts. I started reading from most recent backwards but am still confused from all the links and the variety of bulbs. It seems the F2 is still the go to LED.
I have a 1998 ST1100 ABS/TCS. Which F2 LEDs should I buy? I don't mind the slow boat (there is a Cindy that one should get in touch with)?
A little help please!
Thanks,
Jeff
I have a 1998 ST1100 ABS/TCS. Which F2 LEDs should I buy? I don't mind the slow boat (there is a Cindy that one should get in touch with)?
A little help please!
Thanks,
Jeff
OP
OP
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2011
- Messages
- 1,150
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Camarillo, Ca
- Bike
- 2006 ST1300A
- 2024 Miles
- 002552
The fan is electronically driven (no brushes) so you can spray a little Wd40 under the fan.
If that does not work then you can put gentle pressure through the fins on the back of the fan and pop out the rotor. There is a small white plastic disk that holds it in place. if you remove the white disk from the end of the shaft then you can remove and clean and lube the brass bushing. Then reverse the process to reassemble.
you do not need to remove the fan frame from the heatsink.....
These are the same links, the F2 sold by different vendors.
There are other OEMs getting into the game too, you can tell by the functional resemblance to the F2. It is all win win....
If that does not work then you can put gentle pressure through the fins on the back of the fan and pop out the rotor. There is a small white plastic disk that holds it in place. if you remove the white disk from the end of the shaft then you can remove and clean and lube the brass bushing. Then reverse the process to reassemble.
you do not need to remove the fan frame from the heatsink.....
These are the same links, the F2 sold by different vendors.
There are other OEMs getting into the game too, you can tell by the functional resemblance to the F2. It is all win win....
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OP
OP
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2011
- Messages
- 1,150
- Age
- 68
- Location
- Camarillo, Ca
- Bike
- 2006 ST1300A
- 2024 Miles
- 002552
I guess I have been too busy doing other things.
looks like evitek has some newer bulbs out, now do not throw out what you have..... These are just more options and are based on the F2
there is the mini2. it is like their 20 watt mini but brought up to 31 watts. it has the DOT end cap (glare reduction) and a non adjustable, fixed mount. There is no box in the power line. The heatsink/fan sticks out more so it will not fit tight spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/MZS-Headlight-Bulbs-Motorcycle-Conversion/dp/B07BFQM1FN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=h4+mini+2+led&qid=1559281210&s=automotive&sr=1-1-spell-spons&psc=1
There is also a E1X I do not have one yet so I can not say much.
https://evitekhid.en.made-in-china.com/product/iyAxsHBCfMcU/China-Slim-Design-45W-6000lm-Tx-LED-Headlight-Bulb-E1X-H1-H3-H4-H7-H11-9005-9006-Car-LED-Headlight-6000K.html
you can contact Cindy through the above link and get the F2 direct.
looks like evitek has some newer bulbs out, now do not throw out what you have..... These are just more options and are based on the F2
there is the mini2. it is like their 20 watt mini but brought up to 31 watts. it has the DOT end cap (glare reduction) and a non adjustable, fixed mount. There is no box in the power line. The heatsink/fan sticks out more so it will not fit tight spaces.
https://www.amazon.com/MZS-Headlight-Bulbs-Motorcycle-Conversion/dp/B07BFQM1FN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=h4+mini+2+led&qid=1559281210&s=automotive&sr=1-1-spell-spons&psc=1
There is also a E1X I do not have one yet so I can not say much.
https://evitekhid.en.made-in-china.com/product/iyAxsHBCfMcU/China-Slim-Design-45W-6000lm-Tx-LED-Headlight-Bulb-E1X-H1-H3-H4-H7-H11-9005-9006-Car-LED-Headlight-6000K.html
you can contact Cindy through the above link and get the F2 direct.
I switched my ST11 to LEDs a couple years ago. After riding my brother's ST13 the other night, I felt almost blind without LEDs, so I put the F2s in his last night. I plan to ride it for an SS1k to the IBR finishers banquet in Greenville, SC next week, so I wanted some better lighting. Anyway...
Question: I installed the bulb with the cable pointed down. This put the bulb oriented as in the top image below, with the front LEDreflector shield pointing up, i.e. under the LED. Is this the correct orientation? I haven't ridden it at night yet, just pointed them on the garage door at dusk and they looked pretty good, with a nice upper cutoff on low beam.
Observation 1: The LEDs I put on my ST11 had a bayonet style connector that locked in. These F2s just have the ball detente and the big rubber boot tends to pull (push?) the bulb out, even after being fully seated. And yes, I put the bulb in after fully seating the boot. I worked the boot around the fan housing a little to minimize this, and it seems to be OK for now. Will have to keep an eye on it though. Fortunately, it's easy enough to see by just looking from the front through the plastic headlight cover. I wish that ball detente was a little more firm in both the rotational and axial directions.
Observation 2: Contrary to my ST11, the hardest part of the whole thing was tying up the electronics to allow clearance for lock-to-lock turns. Surprisingly, getting the bales reseated after installing the bulb base was much easier on the ST13 than the ST11, even thought they appear to be the same design.
And lastly, thanks to Keith for his write-up over on The List... Replacing a halogen bulb with an F2 LED an an ST1300
Edit: I think I found the answer to my orientation question... as per spiderman302 in the big F2 LED thread, post 318, the shield needs to be "under" the low beam emitter (LED), so I got it right. Thank you spiderman!
Question: I installed the bulb with the cable pointed down. This put the bulb oriented as in the top image below, with the front LED
Observation 1: The LEDs I put on my ST11 had a bayonet style connector that locked in. These F2s just have the ball detente and the big rubber boot tends to pull (push?) the bulb out, even after being fully seated. And yes, I put the bulb in after fully seating the boot. I worked the boot around the fan housing a little to minimize this, and it seems to be OK for now. Will have to keep an eye on it though. Fortunately, it's easy enough to see by just looking from the front through the plastic headlight cover. I wish that ball detente was a little more firm in both the rotational and axial directions.
Observation 2: Contrary to my ST11, the hardest part of the whole thing was tying up the electronics to allow clearance for lock-to-lock turns. Surprisingly, getting the bales reseated after installing the bulb base was much easier on the ST13 than the ST11, even thought they appear to be the same design.
And lastly, thanks to Keith for his write-up over on The List... Replacing a halogen bulb with an F2 LED an an ST1300
Edit: I think I found the answer to my orientation question... as per spiderman302 in the big F2 LED thread, post 318, the shield needs to be "under" the low beam emitter (LED), so I got it right. Thank you spiderman!
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I've noticed the new LED headlight bulbs are now going without fans or an additional heatsink. It appears the heatsink is incorporated into the body of the bulb itself.