Installing LED Headlights On A ST1100

Uncle Phil said:
On one of my ST1100s, my G6 (Evitek) LEDs finally had a bulb die.
So I bought the F2s (what Spiderman recommended) and installed them.
On the G6s, you could use the rubber boot because the bulb twisted and came out of the base.
On the new F2s, that does not appear to be possible.
My question - if you installed LEDs on your ST1100, did you try to install the rubber 'boots' (the round rubber cover that goes over the opening)?
If you didn't, have you had any unintended consequences from it over time?
Click to expand...
Q: I'm new to this and appreciate any help I can get. I bought a 98 ST, it came with H4 bulbs. They are clearly not installed correctly. They are held in place with just a rubber Bute. I have the setting turned all the way down, and lights are still aimed to high. Help!!
 
Rick Fisher said:
Q: I'm new to this and appreciate any help I can get. I bought a 98 ST, it came with H4 bulbs. They are clearly not installed correctly. They are held in place with just a rubber Bute. I have the setting turned all the way down, and lights are still aimed to high. Help!!
Click to expand...
If you have H4 bulbs that do not fit properly, it is because of one of the following;
- The H4 bulb base was not modified to fit the ST1100 headlamp housing.
- The bulb base was modified, but adapter rings were not used so the bulbs are not sitting in the housing properly.
- Modifying the headlamp housing, instead of the bulb base, is also an option but neither one was done to allow the use of H4 bulbs.
- Everything required to install H4 bulbs was done, but they simply were not properly seated and locked in to place when they were installed by whomever installed them.

The rubber boot that you see is a dust cover and not what holds the bulbs in place.
You need to remove the bulbs to have a look and see what is actually in there, and what has been done or not done. Once you have determined that, if you want to use H4 bulbs, you will need to embody one of the choices mentioned in potst # 17 and 20.
 
Rick Fisher said:
Q: I'm new to this and appreciate any help I can get. I bought a 98 ST, it came with H4 bulbs. They are clearly not installed correctly. They are held in place with just a rubber Bute. I have the setting turned all the way down, and lights are still aimed to high. Help!!
Click to expand...
There should be a 'pesky' wire clip holding the bulb base in place - the rubber boots are just for dust covers -

Back Of Headlight.jpg
Back Of Headlight Drawing.jpg
 
Just an F.Y.I.
The wire clip is not visible until you remove the black rubber boot.

Someone else was looking for one of these a while ago, and I seem to recall that they aren't sold separately. They are not listed as a separate part anyway.
Maybe someone here has a part number for it.

You can ask if anyone has some available in the wanted section, you never know! Or look for them from a used parts sellers.

Follow the below link for the wanted section;
Wanted
 
Last edited:
Or find a bale wire from another type of headlight that uses an h4 bulb and see if you can modify it.
 
Uncle Phil ,are you happy with the new LED's ? I have not installed mine yet - because I don't have a spare set of boots . The real cause is because I'm lazy .
 
JJames said:
Uncle Phil ,are you happy with the new LED's ? I have not installed mine yet - because I don't have a spare set of boots . The real cause is because I'm lazy .
Click to expand...
Yes, I have the old G6s on four of mine and finally had to replace one of them so I went with the F2s.
I am very happy with them and would not go back to the original bulbs.
If I had a replacement bulb, I would have just replaced it and kept the G6s.
Either one works great, shed a lot of light and (in my head at least) make me much more visible to oncoming traffic.
I do recommend to remove the headlight assembly from the ST1100 to do the install - especially since you have an ABSII.
You can do it 'in place' but by the time you scrape all the hide off your hands and get aggravated, you can have the job done and save some hide.
I did have to bend the retaining wires a bit to get them to work and press against the fan assembly (skewing the beam).
 
Good to hear ! I've got some other work do to do too , so I'll be taking some plastic off anyway. I've replaced the H4's once , so I know it's tight in there . Was it easy to take the whole HL assembly out ? I took the screen off and worked from the top and bottom ( I also wired it so both lights shine on low beam). Now that I know how the clip deal works , a regular bulb change ain't that bad.
 
JJames said:
Good to hear ! I've got some other work do to do too , so I'll be taking some plastic off anyway. I've replaced the H4's once , so I know it's tight in there . Was it easy to take the whole HL assembly out ? I took the screen off and worked from the top and bottom ( I also wired it so both lights shine on low beam). Now that I know how the clip deal works , a regular bulb change ain't that bad.
Click to expand...
You've got to remove all the usual 'stuff' - windshield, garnish, etc. but you also have to remove both mirrors and all the bolts/screws for both upper fairings. Be advised that there is a bolt 'hidden' on the upper fairings up near the headlight - once I get them out, I never put them back in! I found I can carefully hold the upper fairings out a bit and slide the headlight assembly off the bike since it just slides onto to frame ends. Once it is out you get a clear view of how the LEDs should go and how you may have to bend the clip so it is in the correct place. Once you get the LEDs installed, you just work the headlight back in and button it all up. I tried to do my first one 'in place' and came to the quick conclusion I could remove the headlight, install the LEDS, and reinstall the headlight faster than I could install the LEDs with the headlight in place - especially on the ABSII with the TCS module right in the way. I think the big issue is (in my case) bending the clip so it does not press against the fan assembly of the LED units. I don't know how you could accomplish that without some fancy mirror set up and working 'backwards'. But I do have the advantage of having remove upper fairings on a ST1100 several times so it is no big deal to me. In fact, I don't think there is a piece of Tupperware on a ST1100 that I haven't removed at least once! ;)
 
On a side note. I remove the Tupperware every season when storing the bike. It gives me a chance to inspect the mechanicals underneath to insure there no leaks, and clean the dust off the interior. I also give the Tupperware a bath and wax job. ;)
 
I have done a LED upgrade on my ST1100. Did it by removing the windshield and the plastic cover over the headlight that gives access to the rear of the instrument cluster and the back of the headlight. Then by placing a mirror in there ( you see the reflection of the rear of the headlight) I was able to remove the old and install the new bulbs. I did refit the ruber boots without any need of cutting them. I went to LED because I have the 28amp alternator and I hope I can make its life easyer this way so it can last. Now at low + high beam I am drawing less power then with only low beam on the halogens + the light output is just as good or even better. Pick your LED carefully and make sure they have a good cutoff line!
 
Uncle Phil said:
As Andrew said, they are not sold as a separate part so when you remove the boot if they are missing -

I'd look on EBay and see if there is a headlight assembly for sale at a reasonable price.

1996-2002 Honda St1100 Front Headlight Head Light Lamp OEM | eBay

Or check with some bike junkyards to see if they have one.
Or post up a Wanted request as Andrew suggested.
Click to expand...
I found a used headlight assembly on Ebay for $50. It's in the mail. Thanks guys!
Next question. Do you think it is necessary to use the rubber boot, or can I leave it off?
 
The big issue with the install is whether or not you have the ABSII. The ABSII models have this big TCS module fastened to the back of the speedo cluster and it is right in the way. And removing it ain't an easy job the way they did it. :biggrin:
 
Because I am lazy and one-armed at this point, I just cut the center out of the boots and they fit right over the LED units.
I put mine on just to err on the side of caution.
I was really more concerned about water getting to the headlight assembly than I was dust as that could do some funny things as hot as all of that gets.
 
Uncle Phil said:
Because I am lazy and one-armed at this point, I just cut the center out of the boots and they fit right over the LED units.
I put mine on just to err on the side of caution.
I was really more concerned about water getting to the headlight assembly than I was dust as that could do some funny things as hot as all of that gets.
Click to expand...
OK. Thanks again. My 98 doesn't have ABS. I'll probably put the boots back on.
 
I think the rubber boot is not necessary with the LEDs. The boot is necessary for the halogen bulb because water on a hot bulb will cause it to crack and fail.
I destroyed my boots many years ago when I was trying different LEDs in my failed search for something that would work.
I would guess that I have been running the last 100k miles without boots on. My bike sits outside all year long and is a bit ragged but loved.
Not a garage queen, but a workin mule.
 
spiderman302 said:
I think the rubber boot is not necessary with the LEDs. The boot is necessary for the halogen bulb because water on a hot bulb will cause it to crack and fail.
I destroyed my boots many years ago when I was trying different LEDs in my failed search for something that would work.
I would guess that I have been running the last 100k miles without boots on. My bike sits outside all year long and is a bit ragged but loved.
Not a garage queen, but a workin mule.
Click to expand...
Thanks - that's what I was wondering based on someone's experience.
And I'd say 100,000 miles is sufficient experience! :biggrin:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom