Key in Ignition Lock not Working!

[LadyEJ]

I have an 05 Honda ST1300 in which 6 keys will no longer work in the ignition lock. The wheel will not unlock, so I can't get the ignition started. Used the MC key about 30 days ago. Keys still do work on in other areas.. i.e. saddles. Lubricant is not working either. Please advise on how to approach getting this fixed. How big of a job is this to fix? Are there instructions out there anywhere? Also, if you were replace the ignition switch or lockset, does this mean the whole MC should be rekeyed?

 

[STmark1300]

Following. I have the same deal.

 

[Igofar]

Standing by the white courtesy phone.

 

[GitSum]

I hate spending money on things like this, but an 'upgrade'.... well that's different!

On my 'new to me' 2012 ST I bought in February, the owner installed a Keyless ignition. He was a locksmith and I asked him why. He said it was difficult for him getting the keys in and out of the ignition and I would have to agree. I always dreaded dropping the key down the faring somewhere late at night...

So here is an option/upgrade to think about - Guard Dawg Keyless Ignition. I posted about it in this thread:

Where can I get this electrical connector? | Electronics / Electrical

Does anyone know where I can get this electrical connector? It's a female, 4 pin - what you would find at the end of the ignition switch. The previous owner of my 2012 ST installed a keyless ignition - Digital Guard Dawg. It looks like they do not make a specific 'plug and play' type kit for...

www.st-owners.com

Looks like the cost is about $300, and if you ever lose the keyfob, you can use the kill switch to enter in a code to get it into bypass mode

 

[SupraSabre]

For $300+,

I'll stick with replacing the ignition system switch (which I have done on several ST1300s.)

Just make sure you lube them, once in awhile!

 

[GitSum]

lol, ya - personally, I wouldn't have paid that much either, but it came with the bike.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Have you tried moving the handle bars while you turn the key? Sometimes the fork lock gets stuck.

 

[SMSW]

When you get this sorted out, never squirt lubricant in the lock - this was told to me by an old time locksmith. Use a dusting of dry graphite or as a last resort, one of those sprays with graphite in them (Lok-eze is one brand - I might have misspelled it). I say as a last resort, because even though these lock lubricants contain graphite (good) and evaporate leaving nothing but the graphite behind (very good) they are messy like roofing tar and you will have black spots all over your clothes and bike. I also have a friend auto mechanic who told me he routinely sprays an aerosol lubricant in all door/trunk/etc. locks and never had one seize up. I think the old time locksmith was talking about older brass cylinder locks with pins, wafers, and springs, and not modern automobile locks with flat wafers (keys ground on both sides). These latter style locks do not have the same tight tolerances as the former.

Good luck with unlocking your bike.

 

[Ron]

PM Igofar.

 

[ST Gui]

Also, if you were replace the ignition switch or lockset, does this mean the whole MC should be rekeyed?

Not "should". It's a judgement call on your part. Doing so means one key for all. Not doing so means dealing with two keys. The latter shouldn't be a problem as long as it's easy do keep them sorted - color coding or similar. The added benefit would be not having to shut the bike down to access any looked compartment..

A novel but unnecessary approach would be to shorten a key for non-IGN use and epoxy a slim cap to it. The short key thing was a popular mod here some time ago that allowed you to leave a key in the panniers etc that wouldn't start the bike.

I don't know if a new IGN lockset could be rekeyed to your existing keys. I haven't seen it mentioned here though it may have been. That would be a way to go.

I managed to break a factory key in the failed gas cap which immobilized the bike except for pushing it a block. Not fun. Repaired under warranty I got new keys. They worked every lock on the bike which was a major convenience. Out of warranty I'm sure I would have lived with two keys. But your call.

You mention 6 keys. Can we assume they're steel keys and not the soft factory keys?

 

[GitSum]

A novel but unnecessary approach would be to shorten a key for non-IGN use and epoxy a slim cap to it. The short key thing was a popular mod here some time ago that allowed you to leave a key in the panniers etc that wouldn't start the bike.

After having 'short' keys for my 2005 ST, when I recently bought the 2012, I was floundering around without them. Bought some knobs from Amazon (I like a small one that does not cover the entire locking mechanism) and had 3 keys made at ACE Hardware

I use the one from the lockable fairing cover to open the gas cap, and when I leave the bike for any length of time or in a questionable area, I remove all 3 keys. Otherwise I just leave them in

 

[Sadlsor]

I have an 05 Honda ST1300 in which 6 keys will no longer work in the ignition lock.

@LadyEJ how did this turn out?
It's been a few days, and some of us are anxious for a success story. Was Larry able to help?
So many questions...

 

[Igofar]

After having 'short' keys for my 2005 ST, when I recently bought the 2012, I was floundering around without them. Bought some knobs from Amazon (I like a small one that does not cover the entire locking mechanism) and had 3 keys made at ACE Hardware

I use the one from the lockable fairing cover to open the gas cap, and when I leave the bike for any length of time or in a questionable area, I remove all 3 keys. Otherwise I just leave them in

Someone's left fork tube is down too far inside the triple tree, tightening down against the aluminum cap instead of the fork tube

 

[GitSum]

Someone's left fork tube is down too far inside the triple tree, tightening down against the aluminum cap instead of the fork tube

Well, my 17 mm Allen wrench says otherwise, but OK

 

[Igofar]

Well at least you have half of the contact surface in correctly, I guess that is good enough for some folks

 

[GitSum]

"half of the contact surface in correctly" W_T_F are you talking about???

Here's the deal. I was just trying to help someone out on a completely unrelated topic. I don't need someone 'nitpicking' everything I post about and stop sending me private messages, I never asked for your help and frankly I don't want your help at this point.

"Rolling on the floor laughing out loud" - because my left fork alignment doesn't measure up to Your Standards???

Who made you King? I'll still hang around this forum because there is a lot of valuable info, but I am done posting for now

 

[Igofar]

Wow…
First off, nobody was nitpicking your posts.
I sent you a PM to simply point out something you may not have known about.
We are getting a lot of new members who don’t know some of the quirks these bikes may have, and I was just bringing something to your attention.
Sorry if I offended you.

 

[Sadlsor]

Who made you King? I'll still hang around this forum because there is a lot of valuable info, but I am done posting for now

If you hover your mouse over a member's avatar, there is an Ignore button. Please consider using that option, as opposed to waging a wee-wee match in full public display.
Thank you.

 

[aniwack]

You need to check your alignment. Your fork is awfully sunk in. The book calls for the fork cap line to be 1mm above the triple tree.
But could be the angle of the camera.

 

[aniwack]

@LadyEJ how did this turn out?
It's been a few days, and some of us are anxious for a success story. Was Larry able to help?
So many questions...

I went over there.

When you get this sorted out, never squirt lubricant in the lock - this was told to me by an old time locksmith. Use a dusting of dry graphite or as a last resort, one of those sprays with graphite in them

It took a dab to get the key cylinder to twist. The locking pin on the bottom was binding.