Nice for you...
... I've resigned... travel reports... build & maintenance threads... nope...
Re-baking my ST1300 (Almost-full-redoing)
- Thread starter leondante
- Start date
... I've resigned... travel reports... build & maintenance threads... nope...
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
It's been a long, long road for you to get to where you are.
My hat's off to your perseverance... AND your attention to detail!
Thanks for keeping us current on the progress.
I know you'll enjoy this bike as much as anyone ever has.
"SANDED THE THING with 80 ppp sandpaper"
From the looks of the curved gouges, they must have used a disk sander for the attack!!
You're right, they are curved. They are freaking ANIMALS. I see this kind of animality too often! That's why no one touch my stuff. I prefer breaking it myself and learn, until it's done.
Understandable. I was talking only about the last post, kinda 20 minutes of work. And I had just one big post so it's not the same work for sure. I'm just starting around here.
Well, lets see where did I left the thing...
I make a small skirt because of all the debris that get inside the engine space from the rear wheel. I really don't like all the rocks I found there. I just hope that doesn't mess up the air flow.
In spite of all the broken pieces, seems good and I just glued there the new oil seal (even it fitted properly in its space, just in case). Also the mechanical seal fitted properly, so good enough for now. I broke the mechanical seal, A NEW ONE, when hammering it in "with love" as I saw somewhere, so I just had to buy a new one and that was the one that arrived today and I installed it with no issue.
I wanted to show you the difference between the old, original and the new ball bearing for the pump turbine. Notice the thicker walls on the OEM one. I was really doubting about using the old one again or the new one, also because I like more balls than less. That distributes better the bearing and it's more stable in my opinion. Thicker walls and less balls, I was really deep in doubt. So I cleaned both with gasoline (so strange of me doing that...) and tested how well they spinned. The result was that the old one was really bad about its play, so much that got to do the exentric spin instead of the normal one. It was doomed completely already. I put the new one and I hope the today's materials are better than the 2002 ones.
The windshield supports were bent. Dude kissed a wall with some other windshield because this one has no marks of any hit. I took this picture for you. I will cut and solder again the support, it's so deformed that I cannot fix it without doing that, I tried a press and hammer and another stuff but this is SO out of shape that it has no other solution. Luckily it has some play so I will be able to calibrate it properly, I'm sure.
Had to put this on place to take measures and do tests. My first time seeing the face of my beauty.
After installing the water pump turbine I got to install the new seal and it was still so bad the lid carnage that I just put a thin "stain" of sealant to be sure it doesn't leak. Had to do the same for the water pump lid, as it was clean but had some places that put me again in doubt.
Finally, I put the new inox screws I bought for it, as I didn't like the old ones, also they were corroed and really ugly. Aesthetically I really love them.
That is for now. Tomorrow I'm putting the coolant back in and checking for leakings (the oil is already inside). I did a lot of other stuff but none of it is worthy a review.
I make a small skirt because of all the debris that get inside the engine space from the rear wheel. I really don't like all the rocks I found there. I just hope that doesn't mess up the air flow.
In spite of all the broken pieces, seems good and I just glued there the new oil seal (even it fitted properly in its space, just in case). Also the mechanical seal fitted properly, so good enough for now. I broke the mechanical seal, A NEW ONE, when hammering it in "with love" as I saw somewhere, so I just had to buy a new one and that was the one that arrived today and I installed it with no issue.
I wanted to show you the difference between the old, original and the new ball bearing for the pump turbine. Notice the thicker walls on the OEM one. I was really doubting about using the old one again or the new one, also because I like more balls than less. That distributes better the bearing and it's more stable in my opinion. Thicker walls and less balls, I was really deep in doubt. So I cleaned both with gasoline (so strange of me doing that...) and tested how well they spinned. The result was that the old one was really bad about its play, so much that got to do the exentric spin instead of the normal one. It was doomed completely already. I put the new one and I hope the today's materials are better than the 2002 ones.
The windshield supports were bent. Dude kissed a wall with some other windshield because this one has no marks of any hit. I took this picture for you. I will cut and solder again the support, it's so deformed that I cannot fix it without doing that, I tried a press and hammer and another stuff but this is SO out of shape that it has no other solution. Luckily it has some play so I will be able to calibrate it properly, I'm sure.
Had to put this on place to take measures and do tests. My first time seeing the face of my beauty.
After installing the water pump turbine I got to install the new seal and it was still so bad the lid carnage that I just put a thin "stain" of sealant to be sure it doesn't leak. Had to do the same for the water pump lid, as it was clean but had some places that put me again in doubt.
Finally, I put the new inox screws I bought for it, as I didn't like the old ones, also they were corroed and really ugly. Aesthetically I really love them.
That is for now. Tomorrow I'm putting the coolant back in and checking for leakings (the oil is already inside). I did a lot of other stuff but none of it is worthy a review.
Attachments
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2005
- Messages
- 742
- Location
- Cedar City, Utah
- Bike
- 12/04/AZ05 ST 1300s
- 2026 Miles
- 000245
Looking good! 
Those replacement bolts/screws for the front cover, look pretty nice there!
Those replacement bolts/screws for the front cover, look pretty nice there!
David Fyffe
Site Supporter
Check the clearance between the rear flap and the rear tire. When I installed the one I made I had to shorten it on the bottom. Mine hangs just below the top of the swing arm. Your motorcyle is looking good.
Even I don't like flaps longer than enough, I cut mine just at the end of the lower edge of the swingarm when on the tripod. I'm glad someone tried this before. Did you have any complications because of it?
Today was again a good day. Knowing that the end is near makes me work harder. Even I like working in motorcycles, I'm a bit bored of it, as I do it too much. And cars. And vans. And 4x4. And whatever broken stuff people bring me to fix. It's tiring at the end of the day. At least I'm not working in waste waters like I had to do some years ago, fixing DIRTY pumps.
Right now I'm preparing a small aesthetic fixing for my dashboard with bloated paint. This is the basic figure that should go under the needle of both, the speedo and the rpm meter.
After some texture I'm printing it in resin and putting it there. A small, nice touch for a sadly uglied dashboard.
Today I created a couple supports for the AN3 connectors for my front brakes. They are made in stainless steel, very tough, hard to bend. It's intended for avoid the steel pipes to get broken because the hoses movements. Today I thought about taking that same damn hose to the ABS module directly, without the steel pipes, sadly I didn't think about it before, would be a nice mod, really better than having to support those pipes. I'm doing it later, after painting the bike. As hoses are flexible, the need of a hard support there dissapears if I take those hoses to the end of the thing and just route them properly.
I know that using pipes instead of hoses have the advantage of taking off some "spongy" way of work from the brakes, as pipes don't expand like hoses. I know hoses "don't expand", but I doubt it a bit, as I'm sure they do but just a small bit. So, I'm having that in mind when taking out pipes and using hoses where they were before. It's like 30 cm (a foot) total lenght of circuit change so no biggie.
Yes, I took care of the interference between the support and the throttle cables.
They have rubber inside, as you already should have noticed. The piece is really hard clenched inside, I'm sure.
About the windshield supports, I didn't take pictures from before, but I have these ones of the fixing. The sheet of metal was deformed in a way that just bending could not fix. So I cut a couple milimeters from it, and wasn't enough, so I did a second cut and then it was perfect. So, a 4 mm cut to achieve the correct shape. Even I am surprised it worked great. Perfect fit, perfectly straight, no push over the windshield sliders, GREAT. I'm painting them and that's all, after some sanding. Just a bit of extra bending after welding it and that was all the work, fitted exactly on the holes of the windshield supports. I must add that there was a lot of hammering before this, as the part was really bad shaped because some fall or whatever hit it. After taking them to the best shape I could by hammering and using a 12 ton press, I decided it needed cutting and welding back. For sure this bike couldn't be sold at anything but the low price I paid for it, nothing is withoud need of fixing! I hope the engine is OK inside, thing I will know after ride-testing it.
That was all for today. Now I'm sure I'm not finishing it these days, but I'm doing everything I can anyways as I want to ride it ASAP. Also gas here is crazy expensive and I need to stop using a car for commuting, makes no sense going only me in it.
Right now I'm preparing a small aesthetic fixing for my dashboard with bloated paint. This is the basic figure that should go under the needle of both, the speedo and the rpm meter.
After some texture I'm printing it in resin and putting it there. A small, nice touch for a sadly uglied dashboard.
Today I created a couple supports for the AN3 connectors for my front brakes. They are made in stainless steel, very tough, hard to bend. It's intended for avoid the steel pipes to get broken because the hoses movements. Today I thought about taking that same damn hose to the ABS module directly, without the steel pipes, sadly I didn't think about it before, would be a nice mod, really better than having to support those pipes. I'm doing it later, after painting the bike. As hoses are flexible, the need of a hard support there dissapears if I take those hoses to the end of the thing and just route them properly.
I know that using pipes instead of hoses have the advantage of taking off some "spongy" way of work from the brakes, as pipes don't expand like hoses. I know hoses "don't expand", but I doubt it a bit, as I'm sure they do but just a small bit. So, I'm having that in mind when taking out pipes and using hoses where they were before. It's like 30 cm (a foot) total lenght of circuit change so no biggie.
Yes, I took care of the interference between the support and the throttle cables.
They have rubber inside, as you already should have noticed. The piece is really hard clenched inside, I'm sure.
About the windshield supports, I didn't take pictures from before, but I have these ones of the fixing. The sheet of metal was deformed in a way that just bending could not fix. So I cut a couple milimeters from it, and wasn't enough, so I did a second cut and then it was perfect. So, a 4 mm cut to achieve the correct shape. Even I am surprised it worked great. Perfect fit, perfectly straight, no push over the windshield sliders, GREAT. I'm painting them and that's all, after some sanding. Just a bit of extra bending after welding it and that was all the work, fitted exactly on the holes of the windshield supports. I must add that there was a lot of hammering before this, as the part was really bad shaped because some fall or whatever hit it. After taking them to the best shape I could by hammering and using a 12 ton press, I decided it needed cutting and welding back. For sure this bike couldn't be sold at anything but the low price I paid for it, nothing is withoud need of fixing! I hope the engine is OK inside, thing I will know after ride-testing it.
That was all for today. Now I'm sure I'm not finishing it these days, but I'm doing everything I can anyways as I want to ride it ASAP. Also gas here is crazy expensive and I need to stop using a car for commuting, makes no sense going only me in it.
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Today I spent the day looking for wheretheheck the rubber heat shields go, without success. All the videos I found were without those rubbers, no matter where I look they are not there. Maybe were a thing for the first model (mine) an then Honda stop putting those in the ST1300 because the heat issue. It's frustrating, not ever ONCE I saw them in any bike on any video.
This is where I'm putting the voltmeter and the thermometer for the alternator zone, and the small screen of the TPMS. I decided to dissasemble this last one and integrate it in the structure I'm creating for the other couple screens. Looked a long time sit on the bike for a place for all the stuff, deciding finally that spot for those. The LEDs for the alarm and radar warning device will be independent in the dashboard, not that good to put them aside the screens:
This is where I'm putting the voltmeter and the thermometer for the alternator zone, and the small screen of the TPMS. I decided to dissasemble this last one and integrate it in the structure I'm creating for the other couple screens. Looked a long time sit on the bike for a place for all the stuff, deciding finally that spot for those. The LEDs for the alarm and radar warning device will be independent in the dashboard, not that good to put them aside the screens:
When I was a teenager and started repairing my moped, I also used gasoline to clean it. For many years now, I've been using kerosene ( "pétrole désaromatisé" en Français) It's very effective for degreasing and removing tar stains from plastics and painted bodywork without risk, and it's not aggressive on seals like chain O-rings, for example.
I'm looking forward to try that, but it's expensive and not too easy to find around here and now. It was so popular before that I even recall my father having a bottle around with kerosene for those purposes. But now... Thing's expensive!
currently double the price of a liter of gasoline in France. The other name seems to be "Kerdane"
Attachments
In the parts washer I use solvent-free "engine/motor cleaner"...
Rigid parts see brake cleaner...
On delicate ones (paint, plastics) isopropanol...
Rigid parts see brake cleaner...
On delicate ones (paint, plastics) isopropanol...
a good point about the kerosene is it is slow to evaporate and after use if you recover it and let stand in a container the sludge settles to the bottom and you can pour off the clean top fluid for reuse. So it may be expensive but you can use it several times with no evaporation fumes
Hello. Some pictures of the first design of the new mini-dashboard. The first (biggest) screen would be for the TPMS device, the second a Thermometer for the alternator space and the third one a voltmeter straight to the battery, in spite of being through a relay because it just measure the input that feeds it, only has two wires.
Snapped to next town a leg of the dashboard box and fixed it with a piece of stainless steel sheet:
First model of the "rosetta" fixing. Didn't like it:
Second model:
Preparing for printing. It came out bad, as it's my SECOND model printed in my nice resin printer, I'm just learning some failures and stuff. So, I'm printing a third one refined model, with improvements over the first and second one:
Doing some wires now, I'm trying to finish it this week.
Have a great week everycorpse.
First model of the "rosetta" fixing. Didn't like it:
Second model:
Preparing for printing. It came out bad, as it's my SECOND model printed in my nice resin printer, I'm just learning some failures and stuff. So, I'm printing a third one refined model, with improvements over the first and second one:
Doing some wires now, I'm trying to finish it this week.
Have a great week everycorpse.
About the three screen accessory, I didn't like it either, as it was long further improvable, so I'm re-designing it again with another overall point of view. The TPMS screen is blocked by the handlebar and all the three screens are very lowable yet, so it should get nicer, smoother, better, A LOT better.
Yesterday took it for a very short test, again, this time like 500 meters, less than half a mile. My worst expectations (by the moment...) came to life, as I noticed a drop of oil on the side of the engine, that clearly come from the block's engine joint, where both halves touch.
In red is where the leaks are on the side of my engine. In green I marked a couple of passages that clearly are for oil. This green stuff is extremely important, because if the leak is only because splash, it's easily fixable from the outside. Not having oil passages with pressure close to the leaks, that could be around 3 to 6 bar, means it could be easily fixable with a patch from outside. It's remarkable that the leaks are EXACTLY where the crankshaft counterweight should be splashing all the oil it receives.
I would put some photographies for you, but the oil marks with the hot engine went off fast and the camera wasn't able to catch the image properly to show it to you. But I saw the drop clearly running down the side of the engine in BOTH sides, browny and like 10 cms long down. I also believe the proximity with the exhaust is a harsh condition that can weak the silicone based sealing around there.
So, as I have a great silicone for sealing engine stuff, I'm cleaning that up brutally with acetone, alcohol, wire brush, gasoline, and putting there a rope of that with a great massage so it gets properly in the intimacy of the guts of the aluminium, and try again in a couple days after it gets properly hard. I'm also putting over it a piece of aluminium tape to protect it from heat, taking advantage of the glue itself to hold it in place, just to be sure and to try something like that for the very first time.
If this doesn't work, I'm opening the engine this summer to reseal everything properly and take a nice deeeep looook to check stuff. Maybe.
In red is where the leaks are on the side of my engine. In green I marked a couple of passages that clearly are for oil. This green stuff is extremely important, because if the leak is only because splash, it's easily fixable from the outside. Not having oil passages with pressure close to the leaks, that could be around 3 to 6 bar, means it could be easily fixable with a patch from outside. It's remarkable that the leaks are EXACTLY where the crankshaft counterweight should be splashing all the oil it receives.
I would put some photographies for you, but the oil marks with the hot engine went off fast and the camera wasn't able to catch the image properly to show it to you. But I saw the drop clearly running down the side of the engine in BOTH sides, browny and like 10 cms long down. I also believe the proximity with the exhaust is a harsh condition that can weak the silicone based sealing around there.
So, as I have a great silicone for sealing engine stuff, I'm cleaning that up brutally with acetone, alcohol, wire brush, gasoline, and putting there a rope of that with a great massage so it gets properly in the intimacy of the guts of the aluminium, and try again in a couple days after it gets properly hard. I'm also putting over it a piece of aluminium tape to protect it from heat, taking advantage of the glue itself to hold it in place, just to be sure and to try something like that for the very first time.
If this doesn't work, I'm opening the engine this summer to reseal everything properly and take a nice deeeep looook to check stuff. Maybe.