On the ST1300 / ST1100 the distance collar is a good pressure fit against the inner race of the bearings. The tightening of the wheel axle makes it so. If you try to install the bearings with a bit of a gap between the spacer and the bearing, then when the axle is tightened, it will draw the bearing in using the centre race, which puts a lateral load on the bearing, which will cause it to fail prematurely. It is important to drive the inner and outer race together when inserting - and stop when the bearing meets the collar.
This makes extracting the first bearing a bit of a pain. The collar is difficult to budge if you are using a drift for the first few taps. But with the axle out it can be shoved to one side - both ends the same. One the bearing has moved, it will rock out of the way quite easily. Remember to tap both sides of the bearing by the same amount, otherwise the bearing will jam.
I couldn't believe how much easier it was to get a bearing out with the proper tool though.
Years ago, before I got the correct tool, Once I had removed the distance spacer I filed two small notches in one end that helped me to get the edge of drift onto the inner face of the bearing - ready for the next time. But bear in mind that distance spacer takes the entire load of whatever the torque setting is for the rear axle - so thinking back, I am not sure that was a good idea. Others may wish to chime in on this point.
The correct tools make it easy. I did a video a few years back using the proper Honda tool - but the same sort of tool is available from other suppliers.
I didn't have the complete set of correct tools for replacing the bearings at the time, so I was making do.
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