That is the 14mm bolt that goes through the swingarm. I havent had issues with that one.
Rear caliper and bracket help!!
- Thread starter jzmaes1991!
- Start date
Isn't that the bolt that goes through the swingarm.
Try it for size.
Diagram might help.
Upt'North.
Can you show where you're trying to screw it into.
Upt'North.
Upt'North.
No. I posted the one that does right about.
So the bolt directly in front of the caliper.the top hole on the right
Upt'North.
That from memory screws into the caliper. Yes.
Upt'North.
Upt'North.
Yes so my question....doe it thread all the way through? I give it like 4 or 5 turns amd it gets really hard to screw in.. and threads still show..
And is there a rubber grommet in between that bolt and the caliper and bracket?
Again from memory I think it pulls up to the caliper.
Let me see if I can get another piccie
Upt'North.
Let me see if I can get another piccie
Upt'North.
Ok and I appreciate it
Does this help.
Upt'North.
Upt'North.
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Hi & welcome. I'm Gary & I live close to Bedford, Indiana. We are camping this week, so I'm not at home. If you don't get it figured out by next week, I might be able to ride down and give you a hand with it. I'm following this thread, good luck!
Gary.
Gary.
The brake pads shouldn't flip around ever. Take that small pin out and remove them completely.
The front caliper pin you're having a problem with needs to be torqued back in to the caliper. Then the caliper can be slid back on the bracket.
Once the caliper and bracket are together, then the pads can be re-mounted. Easier though to wait until the wheel is back in place.
Make sure that you're only using silicon grease on the slider pins and not a lot of it. If you use petroleum grease it can swell the rubbers.
The front caliper pin you're having a problem with needs to be torqued back in to the caliper. Then the caliper can be slid back on the bracket.
Once the caliper and bracket are together, then the pads can be re-mounted. Easier though to wait until the wheel is back in place.
Make sure that you're only using silicon grease on the slider pins and not a lot of it. If you use petroleum grease it can swell the rubbers.
Oh man I'd love for yall to come down. Heres my number. 502 881 1649
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The bolt that you are trying to put in is one of the 2 slider pins. One is on the caliper, one is on the bracket. The two slide into the female part simultaneously. They should be greased lightly.
There is no need to take them off. I have never taken mine off in all the years of owning 4 Pans (UK here).
But it may have thread lock on it. If so, the resistance you are feeling is probably the old threadlock. Stick the bracket into a pan of boiling water and leave it for a few minutes - the threadlock will go all soft and stringy and can be cleaned up with something like a toothbrush - or maybe even a clean bolt.
(on the ST1300, one of the pins requires threadlock, the other doesn't). Check a reliable source.
The rubber boot will need to be replaced - asap. It will work for the time it takes to get a new one, but do not overcompensate by packing the hole with grease (silicone grease). It will lead to brake drag, very hot calipers, and blue tinged discs.
No. Don't ask me how I know this.
Put the slider pin back in (with new thread lock if it requires it - not the permanent sort), torque it up - you may need to mount it on the axle with the stopper bolt in place temporarily to hold it in place while you tighten.
Next thing is to remove the pad pin (I think) - its a long time since I worked on an 1100, but I seem to think its not possible to get the wheel in with the pads in place in the caliper, without doing some damage. Certainly not on the 1300 - but I may be wrong about that - as I say - it has been a long time.....
When you torque up the slider pin, check the torque setting carefully. It will probably be of the order of 23Nm or 27Nm (23Nm is 17 Ft lb. The reason I mention this is because the artist who labelled the diagrams in my ST1300 manual confused the slider pin with the Caliper bracket stopper bolt (the big beggar), which on the ST1300 has a torque of 69Nm/51 ft lb) - which would strip the threads out completely if applied to the slider pin.
Note the figures are what I have for the ST1300. ST1100 figures may be of a simialr value, but they are not the same. Check them out for yourself please.
There is no need to take them off. I have never taken mine off in all the years of owning 4 Pans (UK here).
But it may have thread lock on it. If so, the resistance you are feeling is probably the old threadlock. Stick the bracket into a pan of boiling water and leave it for a few minutes - the threadlock will go all soft and stringy and can be cleaned up with something like a toothbrush - or maybe even a clean bolt.
(on the ST1300, one of the pins requires threadlock, the other doesn't). Check a reliable source.
The rubber boot will need to be replaced - asap. It will work for the time it takes to get a new one, but do not overcompensate by packing the hole with grease (silicone grease). It will lead to brake drag, very hot calipers, and blue tinged discs.
No. Don't ask me how I know this.
Put the slider pin back in (with new thread lock if it requires it - not the permanent sort), torque it up - you may need to mount it on the axle with the stopper bolt in place temporarily to hold it in place while you tighten.
Next thing is to remove the pad pin (I think) - its a long time since I worked on an 1100, but I seem to think its not possible to get the wheel in with the pads in place in the caliper, without doing some damage. Certainly not on the 1300 - but I may be wrong about that - as I say - it has been a long time.....
When you torque up the slider pin, check the torque setting carefully. It will probably be of the order of 23Nm or 27Nm (23Nm is 17 Ft lb. The reason I mention this is because the artist who labelled the diagrams in my ST1300 manual confused the slider pin with the Caliper bracket stopper bolt (the big beggar), which on the ST1300 has a torque of 69Nm/51 ft lb) - which would strip the threads out completely if applied to the slider pin.
Note the figures are what I have for the ST1300. ST1100 figures may be of a simialr value, but they are not the same. Check them out for yourself please.
- Joined
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What part of Louisville are you located??
This is from the back.
Likewise, can't remember removing this.
But memory is a strange bedfellow.
Upt'North.
But memory is a strange bedfellow.
Upt'North.