Scanned or 3D printed mirror covers

Eagle59

Eagle59

Joined
Aug 26, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Dewitt, Michigan
Bike
1997 ST1100
Has anybody done any experimenting with scanning and printing ST1100 mirror covers? They are almost impossible to find anywhere. The ones I have have been repaired from a previous life. I'm in the process of picking up a 3d printer. I'm trying to get some good scans to see if they can be printed with carbon fiber filaments. It would take some work to get a printed cover to take paint and mounting but it would be a good winter project.
 
This subject had been discussed previously but that thread was probably lost in the 'great accidental cleansing'. ;)
I think the biggest challenge would be dealing with the three metal 'prongs' that snap into the upper fairing clips to hold it in place.
 
It's been on my to-do list for several years now *sigh*. I've attempted scans but they haven't turned out good as it is a complex piece. I'm a novice when it comes to scanning but pretty good at printing and modeling as I have already made and sold several other bits for the 1100. My ads were also lost in The Great Purge of 2025.

My answer to the studs would be to model the holes for an interference fit, then heat up the studs (removed from another piece) so they soften the plastic as they are inserted, then forced-air cool so it doesn't soften the surrounding plastic.

If you have good scanning tips, I'm open to them. Using a 3DMakerPro JMS1 Seal Lite.
 
I don't have a clue about these....
3D printing software files for unobtanium mirror covers
cults3d.com

ST1100 motorcycle mirror

Scanned side mirror overlay on st1100 motorcycle. There are internal flaws on the installation does not affect.
cults3d.com cults3d.com
sparecans.gumroad.com

Honda ST1100 Mirror Housing

These files are the result of a 3D Scan of a Honda ST1100 Mirror Housing.This archive contains 3 3D files in .stil format.PLEASE CONSIDER THESE EXPERIMENTAL. A PRINTED PART WILL REQUIRE HAND FINISHING/SANDING/PAINTING.When 3D printing it is recommended to use ABS or ASA as material because this...
sparecans.gumroad.com sparecans.gumroad.com
 
The first model for sale on cults3d was strictly for personal use only. It's price has also come down from when I viewed it. The second is a new one, looks better and is much less restrictive in its usage. I may pay and see if it works out to get something available. Nice find!

UPDATE : I paid $10 for the files. Looks good quality. I'd do a few tweaks for the metal studs and screw holes, but quite nice otherwise.
 
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2 days and 7 hours to print....yeah, it's gonna need some refinement and tinkering to make it more printable. The longer a print, the more it's vulnerable to errors and problems.
1770959054307.png
 
I think a better and more durable option is to 3d print a resin mold and mold the part. It'll be a lot stronger, if worry that some 3d printed materials would not hold up to much, with even wind resistance causing issues.
 
Molded would be the better option, if I had the means. I can only do with what I've got, but for sure it's in my mind as well. I've used ABS without issue, I am familiar with it, and it can be vapor polished negating most of the sanding prep typically needed for paint.

I know it's hot, but I literally just got the model last night and it needs tweaking and changes to be printable and durable. Just using the scanned copy won't work. So you'll just have to be patient. I do appreciate all the ideas and suggestions. I have ideas as well to improve them. It's what makes this forum helpful for everyone. Thanks!
 
jdmccright said:
Molded would be the better option, if I had the means. I can only do with what I've got, but for sure it's in my mind as well. I've used ABS without issue, I am familiar with it, and it can be vapor polished negating most of the sanding prep typically needed for paint.

I know it's hot, but I literally just got the model last night and it needs tweaking and changes to be printable and durable. Just using the scanned copy won't work. So you'll just have to be patient. I do appreciate all the ideas and suggestions. I have ideas as well to improve them. It's what makes this forum helpful for everyone. Thanks!
Click to expand...
I appreciate your willingness to dig into it!
 
I figured I was not the first one to bring up this topic. I work at a big manufacturing company that has a good modeling lab. They recently acquired a new 3D scanner that I assisted in setting up with network connectivity. That's what got me thinking about it. I've got an Anycubic on order and my mind is filled with ideas and projects. I'm sure any printed part would need modification, reinforcing, fairing work and paint. As for the metal mounting studs, I figured that machining a 1/4X20 bolt head in a lathe would profile the rounded shape needed to interface with the grippy bits in the fairing. Should be able to locate, drill/tap and epoxy them into the covers. I'll bet you could chuck the bolt in a drill and use a file or grinder to get a workable shape. Redneck engineering!

I've also entertained thoughts about mods to include wind deflection, camera mounts, personal graphics, smoke ejectors, ECM... The possibilities are endless. My son is an NX guru and I'll lean on him to assist with tutoring and CAD consulting. Like all projects, it will probably get bigger than intended. But that's why we do projects: to acquire more tools!
 
Thanks for reaching out, you and Jerry! I am no modeling expert. I can manipulate and do small modifications to model meshes, but model creation with complex curves like this is above my abilities...my vision often exceeds my ability. Getting past the scanning part by paying was worth it to me to get it in hand (so to speak).

Frankly, it would be good to just print it as is to see what it is really like, but I know it is not optimized for it. So that's what I'm doing now, mainly simplifying it so the print goes faster. I'd rather not wait 2+ days for one piece. Already reduced it to 1 day 19 hours, and there's more I can do. Bear with me.

I like the idea of using a machined bolt so one could just model a threaded hole, but that then requires a source to make them. And we've often seen those sources disappear (*cough MCL). OTOH, those nubs do need replacing since there is no other way to get them outside of buying a new cover. If we did go the machine route I'd opt for stainless steel.

The more I think of it, the more my brain is swimming. So I'll stop here for now.
 
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