ST1100 Blinking VVME 35 watt lights

Bigmak96

Bigmak96

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I have installed a set of 35 watt VVME HIDs. More correctly, I installed them and Rich R. made them work as I am an idiot when it comes to making the electrons go where they need to.
I have the TDR installed that Dave, AKA Sennister, found for us and used the neat little switch he found too.
The lights work fine when the engine is not running. The timer does it's timer thing and they come on, no problem. But today I went for a little ride up and down between the storage units to check things out a little after doing a lot of maintenance and when I pulled up to the garage door I see the lights blinking on and off.
I tried using the other bulb's plug to tie in the HIDs but it did the same thing. It was fine without the engine running but blinked again when running.
Anyone else had this problem with an 1100?
 
I don't have the VMEs but some other brand. Make sure the earth and power connections are rock solid. The original light circuit is ony used to trigger hi/lo, all the power goes through the relay harness from the battery, and the ground connection has to be sound.
 
They are both good. The + coming from my fuze block and the - to a frame bolt. Maybe I should try going to the battery and see if it makes any difference. I would not think so but then, I have already stated my credentials as an electrician.
Thanks
 
May or may not be the problem but it's a good idea to have all your toys grounded to one point (like a fuse block) and have that point go directly to the battery - terminal.

Frame grounds can be "iffy"

If you start the bike (1st time when the HIDs are cold) before the timed relay comes on, do the lights come on and work correctly?
 
Thanks Carl, I will redo all the grounds to the block. Would it be cool to join grounds from the front to a common wire then run that one back?
I can't say about the cold start question as I had had the lights warmed up prior to the discovery.
 
That should be ok as long as that common ground wire is sized to handle all the loads that are brought to the "star" common connection point.

Since you don't know if that's the primary issue, you could run a temporary wire from your chosen frame ground bolt to the battery - terminal to see if it makes a difference.

Looking at the solutions (excuses LOL) to common problems info on vvme site it looks like they are pretty finicky. Sometimes swapping ballasts will get both lights to work where one didn't fire up correctly etc.
 
I have some in mind that will do the job. I don't know the gauge but the bundle of strands is over an eighth of an inch in Dia.
 
First thing I would try is to remove the TDR out of the circuit and see what happens.

Look at the bright side, you've got a free headlight modulator... ;)
 
Err... you're talking about grounds from stuff you've added not grounds from the bikes wiring correct?

iow all your farkle grounds tied together and a new wire from that point back to the battery.
 
Scooter said:
Look at the bright side, you've got a free headlight modulator...
Click to expand...

That's what I thought yesterday ;>) I doubt the HIDs would like it tho.
Good point about removing the TDR. I will try that if the ground rework does no good. I think Curt's suggestion to not ground to the frame takes any question out, even tho the bolts do cleanly make contact with the frame like the ground to the block does.
 
You mentioned in the other thread that it works OK on high beam, correct? I'm thinking that it might be a problem with the light set itself.
 
Scooter said:
I'm thinking that it might be a problem with the light set itself.
Click to expand...

That would suck. But why would they be fine if the bike is not running? I guess that's why I asked if anyone else with an 1100 had any problems.
I will have to compare my brights with Rich's lows and see if they are similar. I may just need to run brights. His are the 55 watt so maybe that will fly. I need to look at the site and see what the output is for each.
 
hmm that's weird the VVME has a shield that moves for hi and low beam the lamp doesn't do anything different. These are bi-xenon correct and not the one that has HID low beam and Halogen high beam?


bright and low will be the same output the pattern is different.
their web site has a number of cutNpaste errors but on the product comparison sheet the claim.
2300-3500lumen for the 35watt
3000-4800lumen for the 55 watt.

The difference (range) being the bulb color (temperature rating)
Yellower more lumens bluer less lumens.
 
Yep, 35 watt bi-xenon.
You know, the heck of it is, when the cure is found, it will likely only confirm that I should never do my own wiring. I hate to say it but in my case more farkels could be a bad thing ;>)
 
I haven't installed them on my ST1100 (working on getting the 'off until side-stand is up' figured out); so, I can't say much.... but when did that stop me! :D

I wonder about the people who switch ballasts might not have had tight connections in the 1st configuration...
I'm suggesting that you detach and reattach all your connectors...

Mark
 
It looks like I would be 500 lm over the 55 watt kit in low if I run mine on high. 3500 vs. 3000
 
Mark said:
I'm suggesting that you detach and reattach all your connectors...
Click to expand...

No, the only ones that have been R&R is the one that plugs into the original bulb plug. I switch from R to L to see if that did anything.
 
The big question for me is why do they work fine only with a non-running engine?
 
Maybe but I doubt it.
More like 2300lumens vs 3000 if you both chose a high color temp bluish light or
3500 vs 4800 if you both chose a wamer yellow bulb temp.

The real difference is the light pattern, between high and low, so running the hi beem at night would likely cause issues. Don't know if adusting the beems down would compensate enough?
 
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